Hi guys this is my way i did my top ball joints
once the bottom damper nut/bolt is removed & the top ball joint nut is removed the bottom arm will drop to this this level,once you first have jammed some steel in between the cross member & torsion bar,,you will need to jack the the hub up to gain access for the steel then let the jack down slowly
using a slitting disc on the angel grinder gently cut through the old joint
camber adjuster ready for knocking the old joint section out
the red bit is what you hit with the hammer
now to the pressing bit & yes that engineers C/G clamp is a monster
box section/flat bar i migged up for the bottom foot yes she is "Strong"
snap on 1/2 drive ratchet & 3 1/2ft scaffolding pipe now turn till you hear the crack carefully watching the clamp/socket positions
the red section is a tiny line after the crack,once you hear that your well on your way
out
clean the red sections ive mark,dont go mad on the bit the joint presses in to
i used the dewalt & a flap bit to get rid of the top/bottom section where its rusty
smear the splined/torsion bar section in copper slip
get it in to this position,the red marked section can only go on one way if you first bolt down the camber top plate back in position where you marked it
eccentric adjuster
using a small trolley jack,van in gear then the disk doesn't turn when under weight,start jacking & with your other hand locate the new ball joint into its housing
this is what it looks like once it "Square" in its housing,,now for another fun bit,,start jacking it till you can nion see it trying to lift the van of its axle stand or in my case the best axle stands in the world
now start hitting the cast steel @ 12/6/9/3 o'clock & it will drag its self up & in to its housing,you can jack some more if needed but be carefull,the joint "Will" pull in if its square to start with
red line is where the clip goes when its in this position Eg: done
retaining clip in
now bolt it all back together job done,,ive done both sides top & bottom joint & used genuine vw
they cost £120 inc vat from the dealer
last but know means least best axle stands in the world given to me by a very friendly neighbour who"s husband used to work on his T2 but as now sadly passed away so these are keepers forever
hope the above pics/info helps
thanks Rick
once the bottom damper nut/bolt is removed & the top ball joint nut is removed the bottom arm will drop to this this level,once you first have jammed some steel in between the cross member & torsion bar,,you will need to jack the the hub up to gain access for the steel then let the jack down slowly
using a slitting disc on the angel grinder gently cut through the old joint
camber adjuster ready for knocking the old joint section out
the red bit is what you hit with the hammer
now to the pressing bit & yes that engineers C/G clamp is a monster
box section/flat bar i migged up for the bottom foot yes she is "Strong"
snap on 1/2 drive ratchet & 3 1/2ft scaffolding pipe now turn till you hear the crack carefully watching the clamp/socket positions
the red section is a tiny line after the crack,once you hear that your well on your way
out
clean the red sections ive mark,dont go mad on the bit the joint presses in to
i used the dewalt & a flap bit to get rid of the top/bottom section where its rusty
smear the splined/torsion bar section in copper slip
get it in to this position,the red marked section can only go on one way if you first bolt down the camber top plate back in position where you marked it
using a small trolley jack,van in gear then the disk doesn't turn when under weight,start jacking & with your other hand locate the new ball joint into its housing
this is what it looks like once it "Square" in its housing,,now for another fun bit,,start jacking it till you can nion see it trying to lift the van of its axle stand or in my case the best axle stands in the world
now start hitting the cast steel @ 12/6/9/3 o'clock & it will drag its self up & in to its housing,you can jack some more if needed but be carefull,the joint "Will" pull in if its square to start with
red line is where the clip goes when its in this position Eg: done
retaining clip in
now bolt it all back together job done,,ive done both sides top & bottom joint & used genuine vw
they cost £120 inc vat from the dealer
last but know means least best axle stands in the world given to me by a very friendly neighbour who"s husband used to work on his T2 but as now sadly passed away so these are keepers forever
hope the above pics/info helps
thanks Rick