2.4D AAB Turbo Project

Brookster · Dec 24, 2009

2.4D AAB Turbo/PP3 Project

Been doing some research on here and other sites and decided to go down the Turbo route for my 2.4D AJA Engine

The T4 2.4D Transporter is now getting Turbo'd need abit more power and after driving the VRS for a week i need more power for towing with the T4.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44Bs...FTkaYHtBRswaKQOPH_RaqSubDuZA07Giyc&lch=email&feature=em-comment_received&lcor=1

Any advice would be greatley appreciated especially part numbers for the Oil feed pipework.

The engine has 94k on the clock and is a good solid unit.

Been on the T4 Forum for a while and here's the link for a conversion one of the T4 Lads built.

http://www.angelfire.com/wv2/westfalia_california/Turbo_on_a_T4_2400D_aspirated_UK.htm

i have a Volvo V70 Exhaust manifold ready to go on

and a KKK K14 Turbo

just need a T4 ACV Inlet manifold now and downpipe and the major components are all there then.

after that its just the boost pipes and oil pipes.

Here's all the part No's

Manifold intake: 074 123 713

Exhaust manifold: 074 253 033K (Standard 2.5tdi - 074 253 033G)

Turbocharger: 074 145 701B (Stanard 2.5tdi - 074 145 701A)

Gaskets of the Manifold intake: 074 129 717

Gaskets of the Exhaust manifold: 028 129 589 B (are 5 pieces)

& also the gasket: 028 129 748

inlet intake manifold gasket 074 129 717
exhaust manifold gasket 5 piece 028 129 589 B
dipstick for oil dipstick gasket 046 145 757 A
KKK14 Turbocharger oring 030 121 119
Turbocharger oil line gasket 035 145 757 C
Friction Ring and Spring (For Manifold Downpipe to Manifold) 161-298-115
İnlet manifold EGR square gasket 028 129 748

Here's all the other items required too from other forum cheers !

The finished project will look like this finished project but with a intercooler mounted in the front panel.

B16mts · Jun 29, 2013

I'm so excited its unbelievable!

T4PickUpOz · Jul 1, 2013

H: < like you got ants in your pants lol

B16mts · Jul 1, 2013

Got it back now. What a difference. Pulls so much better, seem to be driving everywhere in fifth gear now.

Only running just under 0.5 bar, want to tweak it towards 0.8,but not sure how many turns on the adjustment to try

francisjones · Jul 1, 2013

Hi all,

Got my conversion completed about a month ago but since then havent managed to get it started (only had about three days of trying though due to work). I'm wondering if anyone can look through and give me any ideas as this setback has kind of dented my previous confidence (manliness)...

1994 LWB syncro with 64K miles on original engine etc.

converted with parts from aja van, turbo in good condition (v little play in spindle) 12mm oil pipe indicating later model.

Since conversion I have tried tweaking the injection pump timing and best results (closest to starting) is when I'm set just in advance of the "Z" mark on the flywheel.
Pump was re-conditioned last November so should be good.
I have loosened off injector no.1 and checked fuel coming through and turned over to eliminate any trapped air.
Glow plug relay and fuse seem to be ok (come on and go off in a similar time to pre-conversion) and I'm getting 12V at the glow plugs.

When I try to start the engine turns over freely and kicks out some white smoke from the exhaust and produces a "galloping" rythm (as though its closer to starting on some cylinders over others).

My thinking;
1) I'm getting fuel and compression so all that could be missing is the heat(???)
2) Alternate theory is that cam belt has shifted (changed just before conversion) so valves are not in time (could this cause the odd rythm seen?).

Any opinions would be much appreciated.
Francis

tiggerjpt · Jul 1, 2013

Your fuel pump needs to be timed precisely using a dial gauge to engine timing.

Brookster · Jul 1, 2013

Sounds like you timing is 180deg out

remember your flywheel has 2 turns form every one turn of your injection pump T:

Abyss · Jul 2, 2013

Another one for the 'club'

I should have had this boxed off a while ago (had most of it last year) , but been quite busy for 'luxury' upgrades. Took me all weekend to get it done, struggled with access even though I swung the engine forward,,think monkey, think shorter fatter limbs lol

Really though I did not enjoy 'reaching around' and getting the inlet and exhaust manifold bolts off! Had a few nuts shear, the odd seized bolt on, but all over came,,,even after finishing installing all the bits I had to fiddle with the actuator arm to get boost.

Either way I'm happy and will be making more permanent hoses when I do the IC, pump and rakes injectors T:

A 'few' pictures A: (sorry I dont have a build thread for Vera)

Engine swung forward for more access (was at it furthest to the bulk head before I started!)

ooh,, its coming!

Inlet off

Exhaust manifold off..

Stud removal since it sheared

Didn't work so this did:

EGR on 2.5tdi blanked - that required some big boy tools, oxy and acetylene to slice the seized nuts off whilst leaving threads intact,,,I cant take credit for that though!

The big banjo and his predecessor

Dip stick in..though my 2nd hand jobby was a bit bent, so had to grind my stick down to a point to get it to fit nicely & got some shiney new bolts,,shoulda gone normal hex head bolt really..

Finished Article (for now LOL

Had to use some silicone hose for the breather but it was very soft and collapsed on it self, hence the lashings of white tape!

Booost...think I will notch it down a bit and fiddle with fuelling, not done it yet but I do know it was running a bit 'rich' since the last time I fiddled with my pump when I replaced accelerator cable,,,Im sure I got a few ponies back after doing that job.

--- To Be Done

RAKE's Project Power Injectors:

eBay's finest Mitsy IC's

Credits: Thanks to everyone on the forum for the knowledge, Brookster, Stealthcamper to name a few,,, and the various threads, 'T4 Parts' the countries leading T4 parts supplier, Paul Lever, and 'Minichanics' Paul for lending me tools, his unit, coffee and general awesomeness A:

Brookster · Jul 2, 2013

Nice one , did you get 0.8bar without adjusting the wastegate actuator ?

Have you got a manual boost controller fitted T:

those PP3 Injectors make a massive difference.

Abyss · Jul 2, 2013

I had to adjust the wastegate actuator yes,,was plopping it at first because when I first tested it all, revved, and the boost gauge went into negative figures! So got the 10mm spanner out and wound it up as much as possible on the back of the turbo and this is what I have!

Yes there is a manual boost controller fitted, R-Spec one,,probably not the best but will get a turbosmart one when one comes my way (anyone?)

I am doing the I.C. and injectors in a staggered stage to realise the difference of each mod..so for now i am running on my stock injectors. I hope the engine is getting a enough fuel at the moment...vege mix at the moment..I also have it in my head that its best to do the injectors when I get a decent LDA and vege proofed pump sorted..Ive got a 3000 mile journey coming up to Ibiza soon,,wasn't sure I should be doing this now really

B16mts · Jul 2, 2013

Ive tweaked my actuator arm and now it initially boosts to 0.5 ish then climbs to just over 0.8 at the top of the rev range. Pulls like an absolute train now! If i stop watching the boost guage i drive virtually everywhere using half throttle and early gearchanges. Chuffed to bits

pabloalfa76 · Jul 2, 2013

Hi All,

A quick question to those of you who are fitting lots of these turbo mods. ( I know mole has done quite a few ).

I want to order some silicone hoses to go from turbo to inlet manifold stub, as mine is bodged together with old rad hoses and clamps.( it did blow off a hose on the motorway once, it was back to forth gear on the hills)

What works best and what sizes do I need to order?

Thanks Paul.

T4PickUpOz · Jul 5, 2013

I have been running the truck on a blend of diesel and filtered WVO and I can't believe how quiet and smoothly she now runs. It seems to coast along alot better and I don't have to push it so hard to get the same speed

Jimbo · Jul 9, 2013

Afternoon All

Done the first big run on the Turbo in the Camper Superb difference, can't believe I haven't done this before, only one teething problem which we got to the bottom of last night - think this may be a one off, but thought I would share it with you anyway - leaky oil return pipe from the Turbo, this is looking down the back of the engine, freshly wiped clean and you can just see the oil leaking back:

Good news is, the replacement pipe is only £35 new from VW - the not so good news is fitting it LOL:

Brookster · Jul 9, 2013

Jimbo said:
Good news is, the replacement pipe is only £35 new from VW - the not so good news is fitting it LOL:

i have a spare you could have had for £20

nice work

Brookster · Jul 10, 2013

Hmmm my Boost controller seems to have ceased to work

1.5bar at the moment tried to reduce it but it won't budge , so it either the Turbo smart controller or maybe the wastegate is stuck

Boost controller

willf · Jul 12, 2013

Add me to the list.
It's not pretty but it is done, well all except on of those damned exhaust clamps!
What a git of a job!
My day job helps with working without being able to see what i'm doing, so manifolds came off in under 2 hours but the job still took me a long time!
It is not easy!

willf · Jul 12, 2013

So I have upped the fuel tho I have no idea by how much, getting the anti tamper crimp off resulted me turning the screw back and forth all over the place. The idle is faster but not rediculous.
Which way do i turn the actuator on the turbo for more boost?
Make the rod longer or shorter?
Will

Abyss · Jul 12, 2013

Top nut of the rod on actuator wind it up towards your head and the same with the bottom one..I was able to open and close the waste gate by hand after a bit of lube.

T4PickUpOz · Jul 12, 2013

Wilf you can alter the idle speed by backing it off a bit, without looking I think it's the one on the accelerator linkage towards the front, other one is for max RPM, limits the travel of the linkage. It should idle around 760 RPM, below this it will sound a bit rough.

T4PickUpOz · Jul 12, 2013

Scratch that its the one in contact with the linkage at the back.

T4PickUpOz · Jul 12, 2013

Recon turbo arrived in the UK, pick that up soon when I'm there

Brookster - do you want to go halves on the ARP headbolts? Do they do them for the 2.5 T5 also?

Brookster · Jul 12, 2013

How much are the ones you've seen ?

T4PickUpOz · Jul 12, 2013

TDI forum has a long thread on the studs http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=132477&page=1They reckon they are getting better mpg after fitting and that you can swap out one at a time until they are all replaced.

This is a link for a set http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/arp-251-4701
$134 USD

Abyss · Jul 12, 2013

That's interesting,,, I don't understand how better mpg can be achieved from some stronger head studs?

T4PickUpOz · Jul 14, 2013

Brookster can the facet posi pump be used for water instead? Thinking of using this as a pump for the camper van sink I:

willf · Jul 14, 2013

Hey chaps with regards to max fuel screw on the pump.
When I was splitting the anti tamper crimp the screw span all over the shop, i have since upped the fueling a bit, but I have no idea by how much...
Looking to run 0.6-0.8 bar on the turbo with no smoke.
So can I just up the fuel at the pump a bit more until I get smoke? Or should i just fiddle with the actuator first?

I was totally unable to remove the egr pipe from the exhaust manifold so I blanked the end of the pipe! Is that gonna be to far away to get sensible EGT's?

Ta

Will

willf · Jul 14, 2013

I have been fiddling today and i'm really struggling to get any real gains.
Boost is at 0.6 bar
Fuel screw has been backed off a bit as it was pretty smokey and struggling to start unless the cold start lever was pulled.
I have owner a few 102 tdi's and think i should be able to get power up around 100 without an IC, from what I have read on here.
But I am nowhere near this, in fact i'm worried it won't even get up to 70...!
Is it pump timing?

All ACV kit on my van, turbo spools up nice, i can hear it. Pp tuning side exit exhaust.

Brookster · Jul 14, 2013

sounds like the timing needs about 4 deg advance T:

willf · Jul 15, 2013

Cheers! It was running nicely pre conversion (have owned three 2.4d t4's and this one goes the best) not to say it isn't running nicely now but certainly wouldn't say I'm any where near the power of a 102 tdi yet.
Will

DEANCAT · Jul 15, 2013

I have a 2.4D AAB engine in my van and have tried various different ways to increase the power. It wasn’t too bad on the flat but uphill and when I was towing it had no power. I had the fuel pump tweaked and this helped a bit but it was still a hard drive. After much investigation and speaking to people on the forum I had decided that I was going to do the turbo conversion myself, I then spoke to mole831 about doing the conversion and his knowledge impressed me so much I cheekily asked him if he would do the conversion for me, to which he agreed. He also installed a BMW intercooler.
I cannot believe the difference it has made, it is like driving a car. Have plenty of power and have even pulled away from some cars at the lights, much to their surprise!
I highly recommend mole831 he was really helpful and told me what parts to source and did the conversion in a few days at a very reasonable price. The van has now had the conversion for two months and I have had no problems. If you’re looking to go down this route I would contact mole831 as he did such a good job.

mole831 · Jul 16, 2013

Cheers mate glad you are happy with it now was a pleasure to do it for you

Titan2 · Jul 16, 2013

For the use of top-mounted IC from the ACV I believe it is necessary to make hole in the underside of the bonnet (to collect airflow). Is there any experience related to this?

Thanks for a fantastic thread T:

slimjim · Jul 16, 2013

Hey Titan2...

Im pretty sure that ALL the bonnets have this "scoop" in them. It takes the air from the front lip of the bonnet and directs it to the middle of the bonnet.

Anyone else with more knowledge care to comment?

Brookster · Jul 16, 2013

i've seen a few just chop the existing duct so it points onto the I/C .

I use a FMIC so don't have this issue

Titan2 · Jul 16, 2013

Hi, thank you all for good feedback. For my model -94 (short nose) there must be removed sound proof material and also cutting for hole in the metal for access to the "windtunnel" inside the bonnet. It is solid metal between the sound proof and the "windtunnel" :-( The benefits after doing this job are worth it.

2.4D AAB Turbo Project

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