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Anyone else been surfing lately?

111K views 1K replies 85 participants last post by  clivey 
#1 ·
Hi all, as the title says really..

As its the pub just a laid back discussion on anything surfing really, except of course the disclosure of any 'secret' spots i dont advocate that and wouldn't expect any of you to share such info..

etiquette in the line up or lack of it?

what boards you got?

Seeing as ive started it i guess i ought to kick things off, im currently out in Morocco so surfing a fair bit which is nice as its January, as for boards riding a 6'9 pintail back home pull out the 6'4 too..

Looking forward to surfing Croyde, Puts n Saunton when back in UK my favourite place for sure T:.

Anyway hope maybe somthing starts rolling from here :)..
 
#2 ·
Laid up due to possible cartilage knee issues and resting myself this weekend after a heavy week at work ...but Ireland has been having it`s fair share of surf lately .... the North Coast was double overhead on the beaches today..similar to French beaches..had a fun surf last weekend on a mal..allowing the knee some extra time to stand up ... fun little 3-4 ft barreling beach :D ... not jealous of anyone in North Africa at all I:
 
#4 ·
Went in yesterday. And the day before. And the day before that... now live 2 mins walk from Polzeath beach which is handy.

Mainly surf a 5'9" thruster.

Been surfing since I was 14 (now 37), done some comp judging, been in a few comps, repped for Rip Curl, etc, etc, blah, blah.

Doing a month in the van in June around Spain and SW France. Honeymoon was five months in Oz and NZ, mostly surfing.

Bored yet?!!
 
#6 ·
Hi Surfin Chef,

Sounds like its been great over in Ireland recently then and double overhead too thats pretty heavy, Ireland is on the list of trips for me n missus in the T4 T:.. understand the scenery is stunning and will pack a couple of boards for sure :ILU:..

Bummer about the knee hope thats on the mend buddy, good to hear u got out on the Mal though T: .. any recommendations for the Emerald Isle? not really looking for too heavy though fella :)..

Hey ustwo,

Like it haha..

Hey Californication,

Thats a result leaving nr Polzy :ILU:, and no not bored mate great to hear about your surfing n travels, honeymoon round Oz n NZ sounds great mate T:.. Van trip to South West france and Spain sounds really good this is another gf and I would really like to do in the T4.. and a 5'9 mate sweet :ILU:..

Hey clivey :ILU:
 
#13 ·
Hi Surfin Chef,



Hey Californication,

Thats a result leaving nr Polzy :ILU:, and no not bored mate great to hear about your surfing n travels, honeymoon round Oz n NZ sounds great mate T:.. Van trip to South West france and Spain sounds really good this is another gf and I would really like to do in the T4.. and a 5'9 mate sweet :ILU:..

Hey clivey :ILU:
Cheers. Good little surfing crew on this forum. If any of you head this way, do shout! I know a few good spots that don't get busy (not many left now!) - luckily it's very quiet in the water now (AT LAST!). Had a seal following me in the line-up yesterday; my only companion!!
 
#7 ·
2013 started really well here in South Wales, had some really nice big (for round here !) clean surf. Had one Saturday down at Rest Bay when I was the only one in for a while, was about 11:00am as well ? That doesn't happen much anymore T:

Had good and bad surfs the last year, for some reason managed 3 injuries in the last 6 months after a largely injury free period over the last 5 years :* So far, 1 nice scar on hand, chipped bone in elbow and split nose and loose teeth, you wouldn't think I've been doing this for 20 years :D Just turned 45, no intention of slowing down but think I'm getting a bit of arthritis in the hands from the cold water...

Californication: Lucky you living close to Polzeath, used to go down to the Surf to Save contests in the 1990s, great part of the country.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yep, went in today, 3ft Bournemouth Pier with around 60 people. Most of whom weren't local and most of whom didn't have a clue about surf etiquette :bhd nothing against non locals (i'm one when I head down to the SW) but christ, get some manners!

I grew up in a time where if you were a nipper or beginner you respected the locals or older surfers, if you snaked or dropped in or got in the way you got the sharp end of someones tongue or maybe more. Shame its not like that now, you can see that half the wreckage thats floating around out there now are all riding the best equipment money can buy, but have neither the skill or courtesy to be a part of any line up. Maybe its down to people buying their gear online, when I bought my first board all the rules were drummed into me there and then by the shop owner..

I'm a right nasty bugger at bournemouth, whilst it may not be a heavy or consistent spot it is now ultra crowded. I confront people who snake, shout at drop ins and those that get in the way, buts its only out of fear of safety for myself and other competent surfers around me.. I now wear a gath as I got a board to the head courtesy of a drop in a few years back and spent a night in hospital for it.

Now 45, started on a longboard age 6 with my dad and did 15 years of that then got heavily into bodyboarding back in the early 90's and never looked back. My last board was an 8ft ish custard point, white with brown rail stripes.. still got a 9ft swellboard that I keep at my beach hut on Bournemouth beach, just for summer fun.. T:

Have surfed all over the world, Indo, Maldives, Gambia and Senegal (got bumped by a shark there:eek:) plus all over Europe.

Current boards are a couple of australian 42" NMD sponges, plus 2 handbuilt customs from california that I had made a couple of years back for the slop we normally get here.

Enjoy Morocco mate, always wanted to surf there, as the sea temp here has dropped to around 7 degrees here I'm well jealous!

Right, rant over, not trying to hijack your thread but surf etiquette is the one thing that makes an otherwise very placid and nice me grow a pair of horns and turn into a right nasty barsteward..I:
 
#1,038 ·
I grew up in a time where if you were a nipper or beginner you respected the locals or older surfers, if you snaked or dropped in or got in the way you got the sharp end of someones tongue or maybe more. Shame its not like that now, you can see that half the wreckage thats floating around out there now are all riding the best equipment money can buy, but have neither the skill or courtesy to be a part of any line up. Maybe its down to people buying their gear online, when I bought my first board all the rules were drummed into me there and then by the shop owner..
Me and a mate took up surfing last summer, well, we had a lesson at Widemouth bay and then hired a couple of boards at Fistral.
Having to give up motorbikes after a recent accident that means I'm unlikely to be able to ride again, surfing is something I am now even more keen to take up seriously.
As a scuba diver as well I like the idea of a hobby on the water to add to the one under it.

I do have to say surfing etiquette is one of the things I am so wary of and want to get right.
I know everyone was a beginner once and I have to learn but in no way do I want to spoil anyone else's surfing or more importantly become a danger to anybody.

Even though it was just a day after our lesson I asked the surf hire staff at Fistral all about surf etiquette there and made sure I took note of it and adhered to it when we hired our boards.

I know at the moment I am a newbie and will stick to the summer for now but I do intend to not just be a pain in the ar$e summer tourist surfer.

To any surfers on here, if I happen to be surfing where you are one day and do get in your way please take my word for it it was a total accident and in no way intentional, I will always do my best not to be a nuisance and will stick to surfing etiquette.

It's RAMMED down here too - all of Kensington, Notting Hill and Chelsea appears to have been evacuated and moved here. Wall to wall black SUVs, girls called Arabella, boys called Rupert and daft Gucci sunglasses.

Luckily very few can actually surf. :D
That did make me laugh T:
I love Cornwall and would love to live there and I know tourists can be a pain in the proverbial although hopefully I don't stand out as much as the Chelsea tractor and Gucci brigade or be such a pain and I do try and not be a tourist and fit in.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Hey spongebobbrownpants,

Ive managed to get down to the Gower a few times, love it down there, llangennith T: ive not surfed rest bay though worth another trip ya reckon? not that i wanna be a crowd spoiler mind im not keen on the overcrowded lineups myself i must be honest..

I bought a nice set of fins from Pete Jones at his shop there T:

Injuries sound painful ouch.. two years back out here in Maroc i wiped out on a beauty at a break called Immsoune.. my board had fully extended on the leash and as i popped my head up it was coming back at me like a sling shot! got a fin through my face just above my left eye! after going into shock (nursed by friends) had a two hour drive south to hospital to get stiches. not good, fortunately healed well so scar not to bad..

glad your getting some though, keep it up :ILU:..
 
#10 ·
Hi Russbooger,

No carry on, ettiquette is a big issue these days for sure, im personally not into violent resolutions but some of the things youve highlighted like the snaking and the dropins etc are at times getting way out of control.. everyone wants to be a surfer right? its mainstream pop culture cool? I have nothing against anyone who wants to have ago at this amazing activity of ours but its kinda a catch 22, more people try it, ok cool, but down side is overcrowded lineups and ettiquette's thrown right out the window..

Its not the Endless Summer with empty peeling points but manners cost nothing and the less aggresion in the water the better..

Glad to hear Bournmouth Pier was working T: never tried it but have heard it can be great fun on those days T: bummer about the crowds though mate just seems to be most places now..

Great places travelled mate, havn't done any of those myself im afraid Gambia and Senegal sounds pretty adventurous ?

Can defo recommend Morocco, if you like righthanders, has some craking pointbreaks too..the weather isnt to bad either :D
 
#11 ·
Hi Russbooger,

No carry on, ettiquette is a big issue these days for sure, im personally not into violent resolutions but some of the things youve highlighted like the snaking and the dropins etc are at times getting way out of control.. everyone wants to be a surfer right? its mainstream pop culture cool? I have nothing against anyone who wants to have ago at this amazing activity of ours but its kinda a catch 22, more people try it, ok cool, but down side is overcrowded lineups and ettiquette's thrown right out the window..

Its not the Endless Summer with empty peeling points but manners cost nothing and the less aggresion in the water the better..

Glad to hear Bournmouth Pier was working T: never tried it but have heard it can be great fun on those days T: bummer about the crowds though mate just seems to be most places now..

Great places travelled mate, havn't done any of those myself im afraid Gambia and Senegal sounds pretty adventurous ?

Can defo recommend Morocco, if you like righthanders, has some craking pointbreaks too..the weather isnt to bad either :D
newgale is always a cracking place to surf no crowds. still just to hours from severn bridge same as llangenith more or less.:ILU:
 
#14 ·
I'm not violent, I just let people know that what they're doing is wrong. Half of those I have a go at aren't even aware of the drop in rule :eek:

Gambia and Senegal are amazing for waves, loads of set ups from reefs to beachies and the predominant winds are offshore in winter. Around the mouth of the river Gambia the water is brown for miles up and down the coast, you can't see an inch down. Unfortunately the highest population of bull sharks in Africa as well, the buggers travel up river as they're fresh water tolerant. I'm pretty sure that was what bumped me, all I saw was a dorsal then tail fin then a bump that left me with sandpaper cuts up my leg. Just lucky he decided to bump and not taste me:eek: I paddled in feet up using my fingertips..I:

Have good one mate and catch a few of those big long rights for me!:):)
 
#18 ·
I have a 7'2 fish and a 9'6 longboard (I'm 6'6 hence the big boards)

I live on the south coast so Witterings is my home break. On its day its great, its day just isn't very often. There is a stupidly large number of people in the line up, most of which have no clue as to whats going on. It's so dangerous. I'm a very calm person and not violent at all but I do get close to boiling point. My last surf was a nightmare, when its really busy I opt for a taking it in turns strategy. so im out back on a quieter section of beach on my own all's well enjoying my session, and a couple of other guys on longboards come and sit right next to me like 3 feet away. Never mind I think, we'll just take it in turns. Nope, they both paddled for every wave (missing most) then they'd catch one and i'd be waiting then by the time the next sets coming there back next to me :bhd So frustrating this went on for about 30-40 minutes so I thought I'll play them at there own game and sat further out. Paddled like mad to catch a wave caught it and they both paddled for it and caught it so all three of us were on the wave (me in the middle) they were both straight lining so I couldn't do anything, I said a couple of choice words and got out.
I'm no pro but im competent, it just frustrates me when we cant all just enjoy it.

I'll take some pics of my boards tomorrow and put the pics up T:

I think we need to organise a forum surf/body board weekend :ILU: whos keen?????
 
#19 ·
Hey sidewalkdave,

Had to smile at your tale of the nice peaceful session only to be interupted by the other two guys, happens so often right, why do folk feel the need to do this ?.. :blg..

Personally in this situation i always paddle out give a nod or a slight wave or even just say hello, then move off a little and wait T:
Sharing is great for sure, makes for a cracking session whether it be with your mates or with people you just met out back :ILU:..

Yeah post ya pics mate defo T:..

Forum/surf/bodyboard meat sounds an interesting idea.. North Devon area maybe? May onwards? plenty of notice and weather hopefully nicer for any wives/girlfriends who may not wanna surf? Any area Mods with any views on this??
 
#44 ·
Forum/surf/bodyboard meat sounds an interesting idea.. North Devon area maybe? May onwards? plenty of notice and weather hopefully nicer for any wives/girlfriends who may not wanna surf? Any area Mods with any views on this??
Yeah im up for any time T:
If we set two consecutive weekends then if the surfs not on we can opt for the weekend after.

I'm going to North Devon over easter to try and teach the girlfriend so depending on how she gets on she may be up for coming.

I am very flexible on dates so I'll just go with whatever. We can meet in one of the beach car parks at a certain time in the morning and hopefully have a good surf. Would be good to get an idea of numbers.
 
#31 · (Edited)
dont get in the water much now- two kids under three make it a little tricky, also dont like the cold unless its good

used to be spoilt spending as much of the winter as i could away- used to go to morrocco a lot due to friend working there.

California- My neighbours brother lives in polzeath- Jof- works in one of the cafe/restaurants there. I used to go there loads -tristam campsite with family or when younger Robbie Loves- used to get a bit wild there- dune parties in daymer bay etc. we were only talking about going there again soon the other day

silkyswitch- agrre west wales has many uncrowded spots still- just take a bit of seeking out, I know of a point break there that i head to when theres good swell- only works for a bout 2hours a tide but its ssoooooo good.


currently ride 6.3 rounded nose thing- nice and fat and forgiving. Got a 6,6 pintail for good days or travelling.
 
#36 ·
Anchors - yes have surfed there although not so far this trip, after my accident two years ago kinda a little more cautious now, funny how the body heals but the mind takes longer eh!

Killers - yes had it this trip, not huge around six foot but it has that great long fast wall to bash :ILU: yes defo long paddle although at low tide can walk round the beach from La Source, through the cave and paddle straight out..

Boilers - mm can't say im a fan either, its abit of a mind game there for sure, that jump off the rock and not being able to see whats coming and the boiler obviously.. yeah getting out can be sketchy.. have surfed it in years past but not this trip..

Roaches - sounds interesting..
 
#41 ·
Were you in at Polzeath on Friday? I was in first thing, best surf in ages as you say. Right handers walling up perfectly.

I've got a blue 2.5tdi lwb caravelle, kitted out into a camper. Usually ride longboards (Takyama 'Jeff Hakman' / Chris Jones triple stringer / Custard Point Noserider - all are red as it happens, sometimes break out the McTavish Eightball - yellow deck / black underneath).

Just had a walk with the dog round at the spot round the corner from where you ran to - looked mental. I'd say close to double overhead, clean and throwing out with a lip as thick as i've seen anywhere. Two bodyboarders out picking their waves carefully but the ones they got were absolute bombs. A:
 
#46 ·
Not been in a while, only live a mile from watergate bay but alas no winter suit hat or fin socks so no way I'm going in a 3-2!! Ride a NMD XL and a Rheopaipo something or other, Keenan I think. Been sponging since I was about 10, had a go at stand up for a few years, knee injury put me back on a sponge and I loves it!:ILU:
 
#48 · (Edited)
That last B&W shot is lovely!

polzeath is coming up all the time- I met the familywho ran carters last week in centre parcs and when i got back my father in law was reading a travel book about Devon and Cornwall and we were talking about that region- Rock, padstow etc. and as ive aready said a nighbours brother lives there and only today he said he was coming to Crdiff and did I fancy going for a surf on the gowwer reefs or showing him some of the local spots!

I do envy you living there especially out of season! one of my regrets is turning down a job in Truro about 15 years ago
 
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