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Night Heater vent

21K views 27 replies 15 participants last post by  craig10 
#1 ·
Im not sure Im in the right area:* so mederators please move this thred is necerserryI:.. as this is not an electrical problem... YET .... I have just got me one of those Airtronic D2 night heater things and I want to install it under the drivers seatT:. My question is, what problems am I likely to face and where is the best place to put the Exhaust for the heater..... do I need to make holes....:*
 
#3 ·
Yes you need to cut holes. You need one for an air intake for the combustion chamber and and one for the exhaust too. You need to position it to avoid the chassis section underneath and the fuel tank too. You will also need a small hole for the fuel supply. I mounted mine there and now its done it works fine and is nicely out of the way. But it was a bit of a juggle at first. If you need anything else, just ask. T:
 
#6 ·
I used the marine bracket L shape,, and heat socks off ebay to cover the pipes in the van, & ran. The exhaust to the back of the van under the floor then out of the plastic cover pointing to the side/rear.
The air in pipe routed over the exh heatsheald and into the fuel tank area on the passenger side
 
#8 ·
taking the seat off is a deffo , if you using a flat mounting plate a 60mm hole cutter to drill 2 holes that link together so its approx 110mm long. if using the "turreted" plate you need a 125mm (i think) hole so sometimes easier with a jigsaw
if you not using a plate then the rubber gasket makes a good template for all the holes you need to drill
which ever way you go a small pilot hole to get a datum point on the under side
plenty of pics and write ups on here that are worth a read
 
#17 ·
I managed to reduce how noticeable this was, by mounting the pump using a rubber/metal, cotton reel style, exhaust mount from Halfords and making a bracket for the pump to fit to this, with a slightly softer rubber collar than the std one.
 
#11 ·
Why put it inside the van when you can use this space for storage and have a quieter set up?not only that but all the nasty stuff is well away from you and all you have in the van is cool air in and warm air out .there is a purpose built bracket that hangs the heater under the van above the under tray plastics all nice and snug.surely as this is the way vw mount their webasto this would be better no?
 
#15 ·
Yeah I have the same set up.also means you save more space under drivers seat for odds and ends.it's surpising how much you can fit under there.I first saw the inlet in the step on vw rod s website.very useful info there.it's on the European instructions.I can't imagine why eberspacher uk division have a different set of instructions!
 
#18 ·
I mounted my pump under the left side of the van in a place that I guessed VW fitted the genuine one by the fuel lines where they come from the tank unit towards the engine. On a 'Facelift' there is no fuel radiator in this area. I have no engine pre-heater etc there either.

It is possible to hear it ticking but only just even in the dead of night.

Rod.
 
#19 ·
I was in contact with an eber dealer when I bought and fitted mine, they did the standpipe for the fuel, I did the rest.

They told me not to put it outside of the van as they get in a right state after a year or two.they showed me a few removed form outside various vans and they were not pretty! And costly to maintain/replace

As they service hundreds of them each year rather than fit and forget (VW) I went with their advise and fitted it inside the van.

VW fit it outside so they can boast more interior space, they are not concerned with the longevity of the heater!

I used the larger turreted mounting plate under the drivers seat. Scary cutting such a but hold but its an easy and tidy install.

I have the silenced intake pipe aswell as the usual exhaust silencer, makes a big difference.

The fuel pump is noisy but that only bothers people outside the van :)

I guess it's personal preference but I prefer having nearly a grands worth of heater under the seat rather than outside.
 
#22 ·
I'll stick to my guns about the under floor fitting. If it's done the VW way then it is not truly 'outside' as it is covered and protected by two plastic covers. Here are a few pictures of how I fitted the previous T5 using an D2 Airtronic mounted on genuine VW brackets although I didn't fit the inner plastic cover. That is still in my garage if anyone wants to make me an offer...

Right step cut to take ducting from heater which you can see fitted.

Right front step with genuine VW intake grill.

Ducting to fit to heater seen from below drivers seat position.

Airtronic mounted to genuine VW bracket ready to fit. It sits on rubber mountings to lessen the sound.

Heater in position under van.

The cover that I did not use is a hard plastic molding that fits below the heater when it is in this position. I didn't use it because it fouled the output pipe that I fitted.

All of this is of course covered again by the normal plastic under tray, the only part that is in contact with the elements is the exhaust pipe end which points towards the centre of the vehicle and away from wheel spray etc.

By the way, VW have fitted their blown air heaters under the floor ever since the Type IV cars and variants came into production in 1968, those were above the gearbox. A Bay Window van had one mounted under the centre of the chassis, a Type 25 (T3) had one under the right side of the chassis and a T4 had one under the left centre of the chassis.
 
#26 ·
I agree that VW fit the outlet on the bottom of the right 'B' pillar but this is not always good with conventional camper fittings down the right side of the vehicle hence many of us are 'plumbing' the outlet to an under seat position.

Re the instructions from Eberspacher on the PF Jones site, these are a bit agricultural for a higher spec camper, more appropriate for a works van. However they do give a good idea of how things can be fitted just add your own refinements.

As for my own fitting as shown above, I used genuine VW brackets etc. for a conversion a few years ago but the cost was far too high so my next conversion was done with easily available Eberspacher or Webaso plumbing and my own production brackets. Both works equally well and the second version is about £200 cheaper!!

Rod
 
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