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T6 Factory Aux battery Size for new orders

5K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  BrisbaneT5 
#1 ·
Well i though i'd make a thread, so that people could put down what there VW Factory Battery is for other people considering the Factory Battery.

I just as my local service department look up my factory aux battery, as if it was reasonably priced and size i woulds consider buying one and Parallel them together.

But at $432 AUD for a 70Ah... i don't think so.... i'm 100% getting bigger cheaper dedicated deep cycle batteries

So if you have a Factory VW second battery, post and i'll add it to the thread, as the Sales guys aren't a lot of help.

Bryn Factory Aux (Australia) $432AUD 70 Ah - Part number VW-0009915105FC
Van Blanc (UK) 75 Ah
 
#2 ·
Yes not good batteries but still worth spec'ing to get the wiring and split charge included in from the factory. Our 2013 T5 came with a 85Ah which was still not good.

What seats have you got Bryn? I looked in a new van at the dealers with a double passenger and that was fitted with a 70Ah. Ours has a single passenger and came with a 75Ah.

Fortunately I have another use for a 75Ah AGM battery :D
 
#3 ·
Hi Van Blanc,

I should have the two captains chairs as part of the Comfort pack single seats package, i haven't seen the van yet as it was getting detailed and i was just there to drop of my personalised number plates.

I hope there is two captain chairs:( i'm a little worried now, i hope they didn't stuff up my order, thats all i need.

Hand over is tomorrow morning, so not long now.... hopefully with 2 single captains chairs:D

I will double check that it is 70ah with my own eyes, it'll make a good battery for my shed.

For the price, the Factory Aux battery with the wiring already loomed in was worth it, even if i have to change the battery.

I got good news this arvo, my RIB bed should be here by the end of the weekA: and it's 4 weeks earlyA: It must of been airfreighted here, as i thought it would be another 6 weeks on a ship from France.

My wife is very annoyed with me at the moment, as my order for the CAK waste and fresh water tank kits arrived this morning and they are sitting in the lounge, along with a heap of other bits and pieces.

Only another 3-4 weeks until i move into my newly built workshop:D
 
#6 ·
That would only be for the starter battery, wouldn't it?

There would be no need for the BCM to put 15-16 volts into the factory Aux Battery, surely the BCM would limit it to under 15 volts, ideally to 14.4 to cover all AGM's as a bulk charge.. i would imagine the factory would be smart enough to change to float after a bulk charge.

I'll have to check with the multimeter tomorrow or the day after.
 
#7 ·
I wouldn't bet on it! I can't see how the BCM could limit the voltage without generating some heat and I don't see any heat sinks on the thing! It only controls the alternator output as far as I can ascertain and I assume that is why they are fitting AGM batteries as the aux now.
 
#8 ·
Well it turns out my Aux battery is 75ah, i shouldn't of expected a VW parts department to correctly look up a Aux Battery:*

The 70ah battery with the replacement number is the starter battery.

Ill try and measure the volts going into the aux battery tomorrow, i may have to got and pick up another Multimeter tomorrow, as i put it somewhere safe and i can't find the dam thing.
 
#12 ·
Upspex,

Its a good point you brought up before

I didn't think about braking, and regeneration.

I've got the Euro 5 Engine 132kw tdi 400, as we don't change to Euro 6 until later this year, Braking Regeneration came in with Euro 6 didn't it?
 
#13 ·
Scrap that last post,

I downloaded the current VW Transporter brochure, as i'm away at the moment, and yes, all T6 in Australia have the Regen Braking:(

I'll have to wire up that little battery meter i brought of eBay and have a drive once i get home..

I'll like to think it will limit it to 14.55, but we both know its not a smart DC-DC charger.


Good New's that got today is that, i have got tickets to Brazil Vs Argentina in June.A:A: should be a good match
 
#17 ·
Excellent, I've gone with the consensus and specced it up.

Regarding the RIB etc in Queensland, I talked to a knowledgable engineer down here (NSW) the other day who was more than happy for me to install the RIB and swivels (the roof and the glass will also be points he will be certifying), I just need to show that it has been installed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, i.e fitting kit etc, and that they are either need the ADR's or corresponding Euro design laws. I always assumed Queensland was easier going in regards to reg's but in this case it would appear not!
 
#18 ·
Yeah each state is different. and finding the right engineer is KEY... some have common sense, some just go overboard.

I wasn't aware that the glass (i ordered in a security mesh "crime safe" type sliding windows, so i can leave them open) had to be certified as well, but as my engineer is fitting those as well, i won't be to concerned.

As for swivels, the engineer sourced mine from a company in Sunshine coast that is made to ADR's, i'll track the company down next week when they are fitted.

Cheers,
 
#19 ·
Well i am home, so i when for a drive today, well technically i didn't drive, i was in the back holding the multimeter on the aux battery.

( I don't recommend anyone do this, as it is not a good idea to hold onto the seat frame and hold the meter spikes at the same time:eek:)

Drove for about 15 minutes, on varied roads up hills and down with braking, the braking regeneration, it didn't appear to spike the voltage coming into the aux battery.

it didn't go pass 14.57 volts and varied between 14.55 to 14.56, with a few 14.57 spikes.

No idea on amps coming into the aux battery, as again, i haven't had time to wire up the other gauge that i got off eBay.

While i'm not 100% sure, but from what I've tested, it may appear that the brake regeneration doesn't affect the incoming voltage on the Aux side of things, but this is just from my limited real world testing. :D


During the week, i noticed on eBay that there is a 100 amp Lithium battery that will fit in the existing battery spot upright, its lower that the factory aux battery

80 ah at 20% discharge with an internal BMS to cut of the voltage, if the amps were over 14.60 and fully charged it stops the flow. its tempting instead of running two new AGM under the seats.

The lithium battery australian distributor that supplies them, said it will be fine from the info i supplied him... very tempting as they aren't priced that much at the moment, when you compare it to Two good quality well known AGMs between 105-130 ah.
 
#20 ·
Well Bryn I am pretty happy with my 130 amp Lithium in the engine bay, all up with fitting cost 4 times the dealer price you quote but then it has 4 times the usable capacity... and I still have a reasonably new starter battery sitting in the garage - will sell in a while once I have convinced my self that the lithium is as good as I think it is and still have space under the seat for another 130 amp or the dustpan and brush that is there currently


I would though be interested in your source for swivels you know there is a business in Bris that will put a Riemo in your roof...
 
#21 ·
Lithium in the engine bay? i thought Lithium didn't like the heat of an engine bay, have you replaced the starter battery with a lithium?

I've got the factory VW aux battery , so if i do decide to got Lithium, i would throw it in there and replace the VW AGM, although ill most likely just put two bigger AGM until the Lithium prices come down a little.

I don't want a pop top, prefer a hard roof, so thats why i ordered a Mid Roof

I am getting my side windows with the crime safe mesh through the same company that does the Riemo pop tops, there workshop is down the road from my workshop.

As for the Swivels try http://www.transportseating.com/swivel.html?gclid=CO238PHsyc8CFQskvQod9B4ArQ

They are ADR Complaint, a little more $$$ than the Reimo ones I've seen here.
 
#22 ·
In the engine bay... based on my turkey roaster Bluetooth temp gauge placed in the middle of cell 2 and 3 the highest temp has been 50 deg once... battery is certified for 80 degs in practice the battery doesn't get above ambient when driving, when the car is stopped it rises up for about 15 minutes (rarely above 40 deg) then drops away... On a drive up to Tamborine from the GC the oil hit 120 deg last weekend and the battery stayed at ambient 30 deg something

Yes I have replaced the starter battery check out the lithium verse AGM or something like that post that you have posted on I put up some early pictures and comments install is still a bit rough but it works will polish over the next while..

If your making your decision based on price you will never do it I don't think Lithium will come down any time soon have a look at www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural this is where I got my batteries/cells, the 130 amp is good as it is 177mm tall plus some for terminal might just about fit under the seat.. the other cells are all too tall...

We are have a multivan stored the mid seats plus a paneled in the rear with sliders for Engle and draws The bed is quite high so the pop roof will be most attractive just thinking on the $10K (has aircond in the roof) be a a while...

Will check turntables
 
#23 ·
I don't know how i missed your post in the T5 section, nice install, seeming as you are using it as a dual starter and leisure system, are you going to put in a voltage cut off, so you always have enough power to start the T5?

Those 130 amp cells are a good size, I've been researching them here for a while, but the only ones that were coming up on websites here in Aus were the 90, 100, 160, 180amp and higher cells.

Didn't think to check the manufacturers website:*

The price of some good Full River AGMs to get close to a 80% discharge isn't that far off the price of Lithium, so that is in the back of my mind.

I was looking at the Pro Power 100ah drop in battery with integrated BMS to replace my Factory VW 75ah Secondary Aux battery, but with my T6 it has stop/start and from what i have read elsewhere it can spike up to 15 volts.

From my limited testing is that mine which is a Euro 5 engine it hasn't gone over 14.57,

now from contacting the supplier tech on the these Pro Power batteries is that, the integrated BMS will lock down the input to the battery if it exceeds 14.6 volt and won't reset until the load is removed.

The issue with thats that with solar panels i will always have a load onto the battery, so its a bit of an unknown there, if I can reset the input charging.

I have to do more testing as others in the UK have had varied results.

Now with the system you have, i know that i can get a seperate BMS with an input cutoff of 15.1 volts, so this may work if i do indeed have voltage issues with the factory aux charging system.

Im running out of time to do a complete fit out before my trip out to Ayers Rock and Darwin, so ill most likely just use the current 75 ah until i get back in August to change my battery setup, while i'm fitting out the rest of the interior.

Hopefully the AUD dollar doesn't fell to far in the next 6 months, or it will be even more $$$$

If you are at the Gabba, we are only 2-3 km away, i'm over at Roma St.

I am using Auto Extras at Bowen Hills to fit the Seats and Mod plate, they are licensed Engineers and Mod Certifiers.

10K is a lot for a pop up top, i know you have the rear aircon, would the smaller Reimo pop top be better and cheaper, or are you planning to sleep up there?
 
#24 ·
I don't know how i missed your post in the T5 section, nice install, seeming as you are using it as a dual starter and leisure system,

Yes I am. But I only have lights radio and Engle and mainly used for weekends up and down the coast turn the fridge on on Friday night turn it off on Sunday night ....

are you going to put in a voltage cut off, so you always have enough power to start the T5?

As I understand the technology at 90% depleted will still be about 13 volts and it will still drop about 1300 CCA so not expecting it to have starting problems..

I understand the vehicle has load shedding of consumables at 12.4 volts not sure if that includes the mid vehicle cig lighter I use for my engle. If it proves an issue I guess I could wire in a cut off... just need to source one at 13.0 volts most I have seen switch at 12.4 volts which is shy of 100% depleted..

Those 130 amp cells are a good size, I've been researching them here for a while, but the only ones that were coming up on websites here in Aus were the 90, 100, 160, 180amp and higher cells.

The supplier bought the 130 amps in specially for me along with an order for the other sizes you mention so price was similar per amp... Don't think it was any big deal for him just meant I had to wait... He has a number of clients with RV systems and he has an electric ute and of course he sells the same for house solar.. He is based outback of Mackey so his prices are plus transport... He also balanced them prior to dispatch and provide terminals for about $50. As I am using the factories I had to get bronze posts from the Battery shop and drill them out... bit fiddly but it works

Didn't think to check the manufacturers website:* www.en.winston-battery.com fancy the 1000aha but not sure 4 would fit under the bonnet... might take a bit to charge... but that should keep the wine cool for a month or so.. until the wife settles...

The price of some good Full River AGMs to get close to a 80% discharge isn't that far off the price of Lithium, so that is in the back of my mind. Yep and you aren't going to get 130 amps of AGM under the seat or for that matter in the engine bay...

I was looking at the Pro Power 100ah drop in battery with integrated BMS to replace my Factory VW 75ah Secondary Aux battery, but with my T6 it has stop/start and from what i have read elsewhere it can spike up to 15 volts.

The Winston is speced at 4 volts per cell (4 cells = 16 volts) not that there is any capacity between 14 volts and 16 volts I guess you could have 5 cells and that give you 20 volts needs a bit of thinking about...

From my limited testing is that mine which is a Euro 5 engine it hasn't gone over 14.57,

now from contacting the supplier tech on the these Pro Power batteries is that, the integrated BMS will lock down the input to the battery if it exceeds 14.6 volt and won't reset until the load is removed.

I don't use a BMS and I would be suspect of a BMS and battery for under $1K. I would want to know a lot more before I accepted that option.

I just top balance with the http://gne2010.com/productitem/1090 which sheds differences to other cells as it charges. Sits pretty much below 10mill amps even when charging...

Battery management and Balancing are a story on there own and lot of good and bias information on the web. Would be a good read out at Uluru with a chilled XXXX...

My alternator sits about 13.8 volts have seen it up to 14 volts but only for a short time.. and I don't need to max out charge so not concerned about the fineries that a BMS might provide..

Caution on chepi volt meters I have a electric meter, an in dash USB/volt meter, cig volt meter and the $28 cellog 8M and they all give different values.. typically higher than the volt meter. the cellog has an alarm when voltage drops below a preset figure still working on that...

The issue with with solar panels i will always have a load onto the battery, so its a bit of an unknown there, if I can reset the input charging.

I was recommended the Plasmatronics dingo 20 amp for solar .. but compared to the alternator it is tame as by the way are DC2DC chargers. The Winston will take 65 amps charge continuous and up to 390 amps on surge. Thinking a partially charged Winston could be just what you need for your regen..

I have to do more testing as others in the UK have had varied results.

If you get a www.ross-tech.com scan tool (Pricey) you can dial right into the ECU and it should tell you what the alternator is doing plus a million other insites about your car.. Son in law who fixes Bugs and Lambos says it is as good as the factory tool

Now with the system you have, i know that i can get a separate BMS with an input cutoff of 15.1 volts, so this may work if i do indeed have voltage issues with the factory aux charging system.

Or using a Winston just add another cell... I am guessing if the start battery will take the voltage from the regen then the the cars electronics will to...

Im running out of time to do a complete fit out before my trip out to Ayers Rock and Darwin, so ill most likely just use the current 75 ah until i get back in August to change my battery setup, while i'm fitting out the rest of the interior.

Hopefully the AUD dollar doesn't fell to far in the next 6 months, or it will be even more $$$$

If you are at the Gabba, we are only 2-3 km away, i'm over at Roma St.

Your welcome to do a show and tell one weekend before you go... PM and we can T up a date..

I am using Auto Extras at Bowen Hills to fit the Seats and Mod plate, they are licensed Engineers and Mod Certifiers.

I can see for the roof and R&R seats as the vans don't have the floor or roof setup for that. but it is 4 bolts and you can get factory, they are already tested by an agency that is far smarter than any engineer can be. So not sure how any one would ever know and it is unlikely a tester will notice let alone your insurance or the fuzz.. I guess if your doing one might as well do all..

10K is a lot for a pop up top, i know you have the rear aircon, would the smaller Reimo pop top be better and cheaper, or are you planning to sleep up there?
Yes that is the smaller Reimo, the Multivan is a shorty, a Transporter is a few $K less... Up side car ends up being almost a California beach in this config. Really what is stopping us other than the cash is I want to make sure van camping is us, and the van is reliable - already we have had the top strut bearings replaced at 60ks - under sellers warranty. S in L says it is from driver driving over speed bumps too fast - beggers there reliability after 1500kms of corrugations...
 
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