I don't know how i missed your post in the T5 section, nice install, seeming as you are using it as a dual starter and leisure system,
Yes I am. But I only have lights radio and Engle and mainly used for weekends up and down the coast turn the fridge on on Friday night turn it off on Sunday night ....
are you going to put in a voltage cut off, so you always have enough power to start the T5?
As I understand the technology at 90% depleted will still be about 13 volts and it will still drop about 1300 CCA so not expecting it to have starting problems..
I understand the vehicle has load shedding of consumables at 12.4 volts not sure if that includes the mid vehicle cig lighter I use for my engle. If it proves an issue I guess I could wire in a cut off... just need to source one at 13.0 volts most I have seen switch at 12.4 volts which is shy of 100% depleted..
Those 130 amp cells are a good size, I've been researching them here for a while, but the only ones that were coming up on websites here in Aus were the 90, 100, 160, 180amp and higher cells.
The supplier bought the 130 amps in specially for me along with an order for the other sizes you mention so price was similar per amp... Don't think it was any big deal for him just meant I had to wait... He has a number of clients with RV systems and he has an electric ute and of course he sells the same for house solar.. He is based outback of Mackey so his prices are plus transport... He also balanced them prior to dispatch and provide terminals for about $50. As I am using the factories I had to get bronze posts from the Battery shop and drill them out... bit fiddly but it works
Didn't think to check the manufacturers website:*
www.en.winston-battery.com fancy the 1000aha but not sure 4 would fit under the bonnet... might take a bit to charge... but that should keep the wine cool for a month or so.. until the wife settles...
The price of some good Full River AGMs to get close to a 80% discharge isn't that far off the price of Lithium, so that is in the back of my mind. Yep and you aren't going to get 130 amps of AGM under the seat or for that matter in the engine bay...
I was looking at the Pro Power 100ah drop in battery with integrated BMS to replace my Factory VW 75ah Secondary Aux battery, but with my T6 it has stop/start and from what i have read elsewhere it can spike up to 15 volts.
The Winston is speced at 4 volts per cell (4 cells = 16 volts) not that there is any capacity between 14 volts and 16 volts I guess you could have 5 cells and that give you 20 volts needs a bit of thinking about...
From my limited testing is that mine which is a Euro 5 engine it hasn't gone over 14.57,
now from contacting the supplier tech on the these Pro Power batteries is that, the integrated BMS will lock down the input to the battery if it exceeds 14.6 volt and won't reset until the load is removed.
I don't use a BMS and I would be suspect of a BMS and battery for under $1K. I would want to know a lot more before I accepted that option.
I just top balance with the
http://gne2010.com/productitem/1090 which sheds differences to other cells as it charges. Sits pretty much below 10mill amps even when charging...
Battery management and Balancing are a story on there own and lot of good and bias information on the web. Would be a good read out at Uluru with a chilled XXXX...
My alternator sits about 13.8 volts have seen it up to 14 volts but only for a short time.. and I don't need to max out charge so not concerned about the fineries that a BMS might provide..
Caution on chepi volt meters I have a electric meter, an in dash USB/volt meter, cig volt meter and the $28 cellog 8M and they all give different values.. typically higher than the volt meter. the cellog has an alarm when voltage drops below a preset figure still working on that...
The issue with with solar panels i will always have a load onto the battery, so its a bit of an unknown there, if I can reset the input charging.
I was recommended the Plasmatronics dingo 20 amp for solar .. but compared to the alternator it is tame as by the way are DC2DC chargers. The Winston will take 65 amps charge continuous and up to 390 amps on surge. Thinking a partially charged Winston could be just what you need for your regen..
I have to do more testing as others in the UK have had varied results.
If you get a
www.ross-tech.com scan tool (Pricey) you can dial right into the ECU and it should tell you what the alternator is doing plus a million other insites about your car.. Son in law who fixes Bugs and Lambos says it is as good as the factory tool
Now with the system you have, i know that i can get a separate BMS with an input cutoff of 15.1 volts, so this may work if i do indeed have voltage issues with the factory aux charging system.
Or using a Winston just add another cell... I am guessing if the start battery will take the voltage from the regen then the the cars electronics will to...
Im running out of time to do a complete fit out before my trip out to Ayers Rock and Darwin, so ill most likely just use the current 75 ah until i get back in August to change my battery setup, while i'm fitting out the rest of the interior.
Hopefully the AUD dollar doesn't fell to far in the next 6 months, or it will be even more $$$$
If you are at the Gabba, we are only 2-3 km away, i'm over at Roma St.
Your welcome to do a show and tell one weekend before you go... PM and we can T up a date..
I am using Auto Extras at Bowen Hills to fit the Seats and Mod plate, they are licensed Engineers and Mod Certifiers.
I can see for the roof and R&R seats as the vans don't have the floor or roof setup for that. but it is 4 bolts and you can get factory, they are already tested by an agency that is far smarter than any engineer can be. So not sure how any one would ever know and it is unlikely a tester will notice let alone your insurance or the fuzz.. I guess if your doing one might as well do all..
10K is a lot for a pop up top, i know you have the rear aircon, would the smaller Reimo pop top be better and cheaper, or are you planning to sleep up there?