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T4 surfer owner

heps460
21-08-08, 09:49
is there a surfer out there who ues north devon to surf I am trying to get back into my surfing after a long peroid away after injury ~(nothing to with sufing lol) I now have a long board but i keep getting it wrong so i need a few pointers so if there is anyone out there and u live in the taunton area or enroute i would be willing to take my T4 in return for a pointer in the right way :ILU:Rasp:

surfmatt
21-08-08, 14:30
hi,
what size is your board? and what do you mean by "going wrong"? i may be able to give you a few pointers? :ILU: and i would come down and have a sesh if i lived closer :ILU:

Roadcaptain
21-08-08, 18:48
heps you can come with me I have been surfing for less than a year so we could look poo together!T:LOL:

heps460
21-08-08, 20:25
Hi surfmatt yeah I have a 9'6 ocean magic longboard my problem is when I go to try and stand up on it the board lifts at the front or i seem to scoot off the back think I need to re-think my whole approch to it i just get in the water and try maybe I need to try it on the dry what do u think and I am 6ft3 tall broad build :ILU:

Road where do u norm surf then ??Rasp:

Matt888
21-08-08, 21:46
When you are lying on the board try moving further forward, sounds like you are too far back on it. I will prob be at Saunton on sat surf permitting falling off gracefully as always!!!

Matt

Roadcaptain
22-08-08, 16:50
I am near Tiverton and usually surf a SauntonT:

Junior72
22-08-08, 20:40
Hi surfmatt yeah I have a 9'6 ocean magic longboard my problem is when I go to try and stand up on it the board lifts at the front or i seem to scoot off the back think I need to re-think my whole approch to it i just get in the water and try maybe I need to try it on the dry what do u think and I am 6ft3 tall broad build :ILU:

Road where do u norm surf then ??Rasp:

Hi there,
Sounds to me you have your weight too far on the back of the board. Move forward a bit - find the sweet spot on your board and stand up keeping your legs slightly bent. When you do find the ideal position, remember where on your board, your head was just before you stood up - a sticker or name on your board will do. Keep those legs bent, putting pressure on your front foot (if you are a natural footer) to make the board speed up.
Putting too much pressure on your back foot will stall your board. Practice, practice my friend! - Saunton beach, north devon is a good beach to learn on - Just watch the rip by the rocks - Me and a mate pulled a couple of lads off the rocks last weekend!

Enjoy!

heps460
22-08-08, 23:25
Thanks for all the advice guys !!!!

keep your eye open 4 a blue T4 with a mad harry dog at in the front seat :ILU:

surfmatt
23-08-08, 14:25
im 6"3 *snap* and about 12 stone and i get on alright on my nsp 8"6 but i did have the problem of flying of the back, it just takes a bit of time to get used to your board and the best places to be, lying and footing and the only other thing i can say is practice on dry land at getting up in one smooth action. bit of practice thats all!
good luck :ILU:

jago25_98
25-08-08, 10:14
Funny, I'm often too far the other way. So keep to catch the wave I go over the front :p

SiC
25-08-08, 15:15
I live in Barnstaple and surf Saunton whenever there is swell (work in Ilfracombe so drive past twice a day!)

If your stuck pm... :)

Matt888
25-08-08, 18:43
What a weekend of no surf!!!!!!!!!! Not happy :mad:

Matt

jago25_98
25-08-08, 19:27
Hi Matt, was it bad today (Monday) too? I was hoping it was picking up so when I get the door fixed I can try my luck

heps460
25-08-08, 21:01
SiC if u drive past twice a day you could give us surf reports hahahah :ILU:

Wavestarved
26-08-08, 12:43
I live in Barnstaple and surf Saunton whenever there is swell (work in Ilfracombe so drive past twice a day!)

If your stuck pm... :)

I try to get down to Saunton as often as I can, there all week last week. Is the offer open to all? I could really do with some pointers. Been surfing for about 10 years and still rubbish, probably cos I only get down there a couople of times a year and its nearly always flat or blown out when I do get down :( .
Prsently using a home shaped 7 foot single fin set up which I love and catch waves consistantly on, just struggling with picking a good wave and turning on it.

SPROCKETJOCKEY
26-08-08, 22:57
Heps - would agree with everything everyone else said, but you might also be trying to pop up a bit too early and coming off the back of the wave before you've actually caught it - try a couple more hard paddle strokes and shift your weight forward to help the board slide down the wave - You should feel a bit of a pulse as the board picks up speed. It's basically just practice.

I'm based in Kent, but the in-laws are just outside Taunton so we're down that way regularly - was surfing Putsborough on Saturday - actually a lot better than forecast.

Keep an eye out for a green Westy pop top.

At this rate we're going to need a surfing sub-forum!

Little Red Van
27-08-08, 12:20
is there a surfer out there who ues north devon to surf ... :ILU:Rasp:

Sure do.

Check out the forum at http://www.bristolsurfclub.co.uk/ as well.

Lots of members drive right past you on the way to the beach, and often happy to collect one more on the way. We already have people that we often collect from Tiverton.

Drop me an email and I'll be happy to meet up and advise when I'm next heading to Wooly or Puts.

Cheers.

Wavestarved
28-08-08, 14:22
Hey Little Red van...or anyone else out there
being a member of bristol surf club, do you know of a geezer called Woody who does ding repairs in his spare time? If so ask him where he's been lately, and tell him Jase (fatbas) says Hi.
If I ever run into you (not litterally) down N.D. I'd welcome some pointers as well. Red panel van, Rs4s, black salamanders on the sides, boards and a big yellow kayak on the roof, come say "hey fatboy". T:Usually surf Saunton or Wooly.

Matt888
28-08-08, 19:13
Gonna try again this weekend!!! should be at Saunton Fri eve and sat morning. Fingers x for some clean surf this weekend A:

Matt

mikey
28-08-08, 19:20
Surf will be very small this weekend :ILU:

evilwil
29-08-08, 00:58
Get back in the water. Catch a few waves (maybe an afternoon) staying flat and see how the board reacts to your weight movement. You control the board.
If it was as easy as reading a book, the water would be even fuller than it is now. It's worth the effort/wait/disappointment/fuel/time/losing girlfriends/lost teeth/cuts/robberies/maleria/ulcers/frustration or it's not.