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  #31  
Old 30-06-15, 14:52
Grezza101 Grezza101 is offline
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T4 Post Icon Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

It Just seemed from the photos all where using new ?
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  #32  
Old 30-06-15, 14:55
1943 1943 is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

not sure on others but I definitely used the existing. Just careful not to rip it etc. Usual stuff.
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  #33  
Old 30-06-15, 15:58
Grezza101 Grezza101 is offline
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T4 Post Icon Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

Ok will keep a tube of silicone on standby
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  #34  
Old 30-06-15, 16:02
1943 1943 is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

haha, I think you will unlucky to need it!
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  #35  
Old 18-07-15, 18:59
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gypseywilson View Post
Just a quick note about rattly pumps. Mine had been knocking for ages and I'd been on this forum looking at various ways of sorting it.I'd just about decided to get a genuine VW one after all the horror stories about the cheap ones on fleabay and then got some info about the angle they're fitted isn't the way Pierburg (the manufacturers of the pump) designed them to be fitted. Evidently because of the angle they're fitted oil gets behind the piston over a period of time and stops the piston returning fully so more clearance for the pump pushrod.........and we know what that means................nasty rattle!! Anyway decided to do it yesterday so pump off and to the bench.Took the 6 Torx bolts out and took the plate off, it's not under load or anything but there's some seals and valves there so either take a note of what goes where or take some photos.When you've got that lot out of the way put a 15mm socket in the vice,put the end of the piston rod in it and undo the nut on the other end(11mm spanner) Leave a few threads to go then just take the tension off by clamping it up in the vice. Now you can remove the nut,open the vice and remove the piston rod and spring. The only thing now holding the piston is friction so either clout it on a wooden surface or poke it out from behind. The piston has a stepped nylon seal so take care of it.Now the interesting bit, mine had less than a teaspoon of oil behind the piston so I wasn't convinced that oil was the problem but I carried on and cleaned the oil up.Putting it back together is just a reversal of the way it came apart,making sure you get all the valves in correctly(I think they'll only go in the right way). I realised that something had changed when I started to fit it back on.............because the piston was now returning fully the overall length of the piston rod and the separate pushrod was now longer making it just a little more awkward to fit!! Got it all back together and fired it up and............rattle's gone!!!!! Acess is a pig so it's not the easiest job to do but so far so good. Maybe it'll get oil behind again but I reckon it's worth a try for the money I've saved!!
Just completed this job after reading this thread and mines quiet now, thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatboy35 View Post
Further to the excellent First post, a few pictures.

NOTE. I have not fitted or proved the strip / rebuild yet, but a bench test showed a Vacuum IS being drawn


Cleaned ready for strip down.



Cover removed (T25 Torx x6)



Close up of uncleaned seal (stuck in place) and NRV's



Seal removed



Seal and NRV's removed with piston removed



Piston, pushrod and spring assembly removed but in order



Cleaned and reassembled (note: I did not clean the NRV assemblies, I don't know how fragile they are)



Block side (seal requires replacing)



How I 'THINK' it works.


Spring pressure draws piston back 'Drawing Vacuum'



Cam acting on on pushrod moves piston out preparing for 'Vacuum draw'


I think the cam and push rod are supposed to be in contact at all times using spring pressure to maintain contact. When it fails, oil gets trapped behind the piston and stops the spring short of full extension, creating a 'break' in contact between pushrod and cam, the 'Tap' is the contact forming again on the next cycle (I 'think' )


Hope the pictures compliment the excellent initial post.


Chris

As above thanks for this, your pics were a godsend

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  #36  
Old 21-08-15, 07:50
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ticktock1 ticktock1 is offline
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T4 Post Icon Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

Done this service last week and it does indeed shut it up good thread thanks ...
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  #37  
Old 21-08-15, 08:48
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Fatboy35 Fatboy35 is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grezza101 View Post
It Just seemed from the photos all where using new ?
I'll be using a new 'block' to pump seal but the original pump 'cap' seal is fine if you are careful when seperating for cleaning (and mine was gopping and stuck, but it's still good after a careful clean)

Chris

'There's a lot to be said for understatement'
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  #38  
Old 21-08-15, 10:05
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familylugg familylugg is offline
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T4 Post Icon Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

I'm planning to do this (time permitting!) and remember seeing another thread (on here, I think, though the internet can take you off on a tangent quite easily!) where it was recommended to replace the seal the rod runs through. Size is (IIRC) 18x10x5.5mm
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  #39  
Old 18-09-15, 02:28
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

I went and bought a new Perburg pump thinking the ticking came from there but it turned out that the pump is ok. There is no oil coming out when I pull out the tube. Now I am stuck with a new Pierburg pump that I dont need.
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  #40  
Old 12-11-15, 09:27
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smid smid is offline
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Default Re: 2.5 Vacuum Pump stripdown and fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aladins78 View Post
Just thought I'd add to this, I've done 4500 miles since I stripped and cleaned the vac pump with not even a hint of a noise.
Until I did a service yesterday, now it's rattling again! I'm in 2 mind about if it's worth cleaning again or to get a new one? It's a bit of a bugger if I'm going to have to clean it every time I do a service.
Hi there I serviced my t4 2.5tdi 102 hp yesterday and it has developed a rattle at idle and it goes away around 1500rpm, after a while it completely goes away even at idle I am for pointing my finger at the vacuum pump as its on the pulley side of the engine all the noise is coming from. Is that similar to what others experience with pump faults?
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