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HOW TO: Replace top ball joints with Sealey tool

95K views 61 replies 44 participants last post by  NeilA 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
OK, here's my offering to add to 7/11=12's great How To. It covers using the Sealey tool.

1. Chock the wheels, pop a jack under the jacking point, remove the wheel (19mm bolts), slip an axle stand under the lower wishbone and it should look like this.



2. Bit of WD40 on the 21mm nut that holds on the shock absorber lower end, socket on one end and spanner on the other end, then knock out the bolt.



3. Prep time. The upper wishbone needs to be wedged against the subframe in the marked area. Don’t mistakenly try to wedge it against the lower wishbone as this doesn’t work… Wedging lets the lower wishbone drop, whilst the top one stays still, lifting the upper ball joint out of its housing. Problem is, to do this, you need a thin bit of something strong.



4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.



5. I’ve read of others jacking the hub with the van staying stationery on axle stands but I did it the other way. It just seemed easier. To get the chisel in place you need to drop the body (or raise the hub if jacking that) and position the chisel. Raise the body slowly until it nips the chisel securely between the subframe and upper wishbone and hold it there.



6. Slotted in place nicely



7. Take out the 18mm bolt holding the caster/camber adjuster – needs to be released and removed from the ball joint afterwards. Note the mark made to make sure it goes back in the same place afterwards.



8. Potential mistake alert! On the first joint I did I struggled to get a socket on to the 24mm nut that holds the joint in place. BAD idea – managed in my fumbling to nip a hole in the rubber CV gaiter. Use a 24mm ring spanner preferably, although I got away with a good quality big adjustable spanner.



9. Once the nut’s off this eccentric washer will probably fall off.



10. Use a couple of screwdrivers to prise out the circlip



11. Jack up the body (or lower the suspension if you’re doing it the other way) and out should pop the joint.



12. It should come out as a unit without too much stress.



13. Bring out the big boys! Sealey VSE725. It both pulls and pushes. Instructions at end.



14. You need the wider fork fitted (black) and the smallest black round adapter.



15. An extension bar on the socket bar was needed (not shown) as it takes some removing.



16. And out it pops!



17. I used the gold coloured fork (slightly smaller) without any of the adapters on the puller to push the camber/caster adjuster off of the taper on the joint. It didn’t take much effort.



18. Bit of cleaning up – the puller rests on the recess when pushing the new ball joint in so it needs a clean surface.



19. Bentley manual says lubricate face of wishbone that’ll receive the joint with liquid soap.



20. Puller set up to push – gold fork and adapter



21. New joint ready to go in. Genuine VW one – part number 701407187B costing £32.76 + VAT in June 2012.



22. Puller in place to push in new joint.



23. Fit the new circlip



24. Put camber/caster plate in place before lowering vehicle (or lifting hub) slowly so it drops into place.



25. Don’t forget to put on the eccentric washer before the 24mm nut goes back on (I did first time…) It can only go in one way as it locates in the bottom of the camber/caster adjuster. Bentley manual has a typo as it says tighten to 110Nm or 118ft/lb. Think it should say 160Nm or 118ft/lb but it’s a bit academic because I’m not sure how you do this with drive shaft in place.



26. Replace bolt to hold camber/caster plate in place – tighten to 60Nm or 44 ft/lb.



27. Replace bolt through connecting link and shock absorber. I had to lift and drop the body to get them to align. Tighten nut to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb



28. Wheel back on – tighten bolts to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb – and hopefully any squeaks or knocks have gone. My steering was much lighter too.

Finally - the Sealey instructions. Hardly comprehensive...

 
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#4 ·
Re: How to: Replace top ball joints with Sealey tool

Thanks - bit of an epic but think the detail's worth it. Meant to say I have PDF of it I can ping to anyone who PMs me their email. Useful to look at whilst next to the van but I couldn't work out where to upload it.
 
#11 ·
Ta for the nice comments. Must teach my wife to do the same...

Davelikesdiesel - reckon it looks the same (although the gold bits on the Sealey kits are more bling)

Ianpick - I'm not that rich! dandare kindly loaned his tool (the metal type) for a modest fee and Muddi Camel also has one to hire too.
 
#16 ·
I am happy to hire it to people a bit more local to me (Bedfordshire).
i really dont want to get involved with posting it, all 10lbs of it, and would rather have someone do it here or take it away to do the job.
It cost me about £160 so I do need to protect it!!!

I'm sure you understand.

Ian
 
#21 ·
Bought this while visiting friends in CZ.

First ball joint 1.5 hours, thought this was going to be the worst side - biggest headache was the bottom part of the shock had sized to the mounting bolt - took forever to wist it out of the rubber at the bottom of the shock.

Second one 3 hours :(. 24mm nut underneath was sized. Release the joint from the arm and then tried chopping the joint off - of course the tapered part of the bolt is inside the camber/caster adjuster so this doesn't work.
Ended up with angle grinder and then dremmel to cut away enough of the nut to bash it into submission. Well corroded. The camber/caster plate had to be removed from the bolt using a vice a hammer and a lot of bashing.
All went back together with no drama though.

While doing the first one I discovered I had 2mm left on my brake pads - 100 Euros at AD74 in Annemasse (near Geneva) for pads.

If anyone needs to borrow the balljoint tool in the Chamonix area I now have one.
 
#37 ·
Yes I have but it involved using a blow torch to warm up the outer casing and the ball joint just fell out. Its not the ideal way to do it but i was stuck so had no other option. if i was to do it again i would deffenatly use the correct tool.
 
#26 ·
Hi,
Well done on some brilliant advice and photos.

I did mine today exactly the same way, apart from forgetting to put the eccentric washer back on the n/ side one !!!@@""/"".
My only problem was freeing the camber adjuster from the removed ball joint, did not want to play.

That aside, as I said, top advice.

Nice one, Karl.
 
#29 ·
I noticed that you posted that they might need doing every 5 years or so but after getting mine done last year it has failed in the MOT again this year. Does anyone know why that might be? Could there be something else wrong causing it? I was lucky that I found a local T4 specialist to do it last year (on here I think) but if it is going to keep needing doing then it will get pricey.
 
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