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Old 08-05-12, 12:14  
Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
d-9 d-9 is offline 08-05-12, 12:14

At the weekend I decided to rebush the gearshift rods to try and sort out the change and adjust it so I could get first. As theres been a few threads asking I figured I'd write up how to do them. I replaced the usual suspects, which are the bushes on the end of the T rod, which lifts the shaft on the top of the box, the bush it sits in, the bushes on the relay lever and the bushes on the bottom of the lever. In this picture, numbers 47, 46 and 53, 42 and 27. Some photos shamelessly stolen from the shortshift thread, because I didnt take enough.



Remove the shift rods from the car:
1. On top of the gearbox, undo the two vertical 10mm bolts (49) that hold the A shaped bracket(50) which locates one end of the T-linkage (38) onto the gearbox, remove this bracket.

2. On top of the gearbox, undo the two 13mm bolts (54) that hold the pivot bracket (52) onto the gearbox. (ratchet spanners will help this bit).

3. Under the van, undo the 13mm nut that holds the relay lever (39) onto the T-linkage, pull the relay lever off the bottom of the T-linkage.


4. Under the van, undo the 13mm bolt that holds the forward/back selector shaft (43) onto the bottom of the gear shift lever, drop the selector shaft down and rotate the lot so that the relay lever pops off the forward selector shaft and drop it off the car.


5. Under the van, undo the 13mm bolt that holds the T-linkage onto the bottom of the gear shaft, by means of a round clamp(35). Remove the bolt and the clamp. Push the linkage forward and the bottom of the shaft backwards, so the linkage pops out of the bottom of the shift lever, then withdraw the T-linkage from under the car.

Removing the old bushes - There appear to be a couple of variants, one uses a retaining pin to hold the smaller ball onto the T-linkage, mine didnt so thats what I describe here. For the one that uses a retaining pin, press it out first.
6. Cut the old balls off the T-linkage, then pry off using a spanner:



7. Cut the old bearing bush out of the pivot bracket, then push out. Mine just fell out when poked with a 1/2" extension, no hammer needed!


8. Press the balls onto the end of the T-linkage. I used a press which was easy, but if you dont have access to a press a large vice or possibly a lump hammer would do:


9. Press the new bearing bush back into the pivot bracket - make sure you press this in the correct way around!


10. Press the T-linkage into the bearing bush. I used a spanner to support the bracket rather than pressing against the bush, however this caused the bush to pop out slightly and need pushing back in from the other side, Im not sure if it would be better to press against the bottom of the bush:


11. Pop out the bushes on the relay lever, these just pop in and out. While you've got it off, consider doing a short-shift conversion, as described here: https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=48108 Totally transforms the gearshift

12. Under the van, pop out the bushes on the bottom of the shift lever, these I just hoiked out with a pen-knife and pushed the new ones in.

13. Now put it all back together Once its all in place, have an assistant hold the lever in a sensible place while adjusting the forward backward and rotation via the clamp bolt at the bottom of the shift lever - If this is adjusted wrong you'll have to push the stick down to get first.

This has made a huge difference, its gone from sloppy and not knowing which gear I'm in, to nice and precise
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d-9
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
09-09-17, 21:58 #61
mushroom
Van Jedi

Has anyone got pics showing how to do it NOT hosted by photobucket ?
Just been stuck in London waiting for the AA to take it home
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
09-09-17, 23:11 #62
Or_GazM
Full of Cr*p....
Official MemberVW Transporter

You don't really need the pics.....once you have it in your hand it's quite easy to sort out.
 
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
10-09-17, 07:51 #63
scruffytoo
More than a little van obsessed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Or_GazM View Post
You don't really need the pics.....once you have it in your hand it's quite easy to sort out.
But quite a bit harder to CHANGE THEM ALL, for that factory fresh 'as new' feel
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
11-09-17, 19:13 #64
mushroom
Van Jedi

Can't say it's the easiest in a 2.5 TDi caravelle with rear heating
I had to cut the coolant pipes that run to the rear heater and remove extra brackets for the pipes
Also there was a engine brace bar that fits over the top of the pivot bracket that had to come out
Spent most of the day figuring out what and what not to disconnect, then just going for it
Now having problems finding the coolant pipes locally, 701-819-372-G was easy enough but 7DO-121-157AD is coming from Germany, ETA a weeks time

State of play as of tonight

IMG_20170911_183245 by Dave Gale, on Flickr
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
18-09-17, 09:37 #65
minicabber
Van Rookie

thanks for posting this,found it very useful,the trouble is - i cannot see the pics,is there anyway you make them "visible" or message them to me.i think the description is great but i like to be able to visualise what i need to do - thanks.
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
03-07-18, 09:52 #66
RichSal
Van Rookie

Just want to add my thanks for this article and the subsequent comments. My 97 1.9TD had part 45 (53?) (701-711-166) disintegrate. Following the article I managed to replace it from the top without taking the "T-bar" out of the engine. Helpful were the suggestions of attaching the re-built bracket to the smaller ball before reattaching to the engine and pushing the ball in sideways. Both helped me get a g-cramp into position to help with the final push. Richard
 
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
24-08-18, 13:05 #67
jets
Lord of the T4s

Here's how I repaired mine.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ir-122534.html
 
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
27-08-18, 10:12 #68
neily
Van Master Jedi
Official MemberVW Transporter

Anyone any idea what this bit is all about and why it's not attached to anything? The square plate section just spins freely when touched? t attached to anything
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
09-09-19, 14:55 #69
Ormie
Van Rookie

Billy-Bob,do you still have the photos you took of tool you made for replacing the gearbox bush?If so could you PLEASE let me have a copy so I can finish the job!

Grateful if you can Dave Ormie
 
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Re: Gearshift Bushes - how to :)
13-10-19, 20:37 #70
luke1976
Van Expert

A few weeks ago one of my gear bushes went, and at the time I had no idea what it was or how to fix it. I found that I could drive and find all the gears after a while, so that was some relief, but I still needed to fix it. After plenty of searching and youtube videos, I worked out what I hoped needed doing, so I bought a cheap pack on eBay. Unfortunately, it wasn't one of the balls that went, but the gearshift rod bush (see picture below), which by all accounts was going to be harder to fix, and probably not doable by me on the road. I removed the old part that was hanging on and a friend and I gave it a go. We put the bush in boiling water, which made it super flexible, but far too much so, and it just got pushed out through the other side, and then when it cooled, the rubber had deteriorated. After a fair bit of time, we realised that wasn't going to work, only to find I now no longer had reverse, 1st or 5th gear.

Anyhow the reason for the post is because I thought I'd better try to hold it together with cable ties to get it to the garage, but as I was about to try that, a friend mentioned bike inner tubes. I bought one from Poundland today and managed to wrap it once around the rod, then through the hole where the bush should go, then back around the back of the perpendicular rod going back to the gearstick, and then tied the two ends together (I've tried to show what I mean in the picture below). As a result, the ball is held where it should be and I have all gears back. I used some cable ties to stop the inner tube slipping, but it holds onto itself pretty well. I don't know how long it will last, but hopefully enough to get to the garage (200 miles away!) and won't catch fire or melt - I've no idea how hot that area of the engine bay gets.

 
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