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Old 21-08-10, 06:33
jfoldbar jfoldbar is offline
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Default turbo

i have a 2004 t5 2.5 tdi with 170k on it. been giving me problems lately and now convinced that variable vains are blocked and pehaps egr. while i fixed absolutley everything on all my older cars, this thing is so compact and high tech and having no repair manual doesnt help. this is the first car ive owned with a turbo. can someone please give me a step by step on how to remove the turbo on this car at home(if possible without hoist). spent an hour looking at it and beleive i have to come from underneath and first remove exhaust to get more room.can undo bolt from just behind turbo and just before first muffler. as yet can not even see exactly how turbo is held on but am betting that 3 triangle formation bolts under the turbo is where id start. does exaust manifold need to come off, if not then how is turbo held to it.
am not 100% sure which part is egr, but am geussing it is 4 inch section in large hose that is just beside oil refill, and has 1 inch pipe going to exhaust manifold. this looks no prob to take off to clean. is there anything i need to be careful of.
any info would be much appreciated
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Old 21-08-10, 10:34
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getrad getrad is offline
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Default Re: turbo

Havent got enought time today to add more detail, but heres some VW diagrams that should help you, regards Bill




















EGR diagram





EGR is below coolant header tank, large rubber hoses to left and right of it.

Last edited by getrad; 21-08-10 at 10:41. Reason: add info
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  #3  
Old 22-08-10, 00:44
jfoldbar jfoldbar is offline
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Default Re: turbo

hi bill, thanks for the pics. they are most helpfull.
pics 1-4 i understand and can get to those areas.
pic 5,7,8,9 must be a diiferent model to mine. these pics are not on my engine anywhere.
i believe the last 2 pics are 2 seperate exhaust manifold pics. the 2nd is closest to mine though not exact.
pic 5, while i understand it and it corresponds to my engine, im not sure how i can even get to those 3 bolts. i cant even touch them with my fingers let alone get a spanner or socket onto them. it may be different though when i remove exhaust but still have my douts.

on a seperate note, i understand that the egr hose takes a portion of exhaust gasses back to intake after clean air has been cooled. pic 1. if this is the case then exhaust gasses mixing with cool air would warm the air again defeating the purpose of the intercooler. then would removing/deleting the egr system make the engine run better?

thanks

adrian
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Old 22-08-10, 12:02
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getrad getrad is offline
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Default Re: turbo

I have blanked my EGR as in the UK there is no cold emissions test as part of the MOT. Engine should run better and possible better fuel economy. Additional, if the EGR needs replacing its 150 so to isolate makes financial sense. Blanking plates are on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EGR-BLANKING-P...an_Accessories and very easy to fit.

If you PM me with your vehicle details:

year
Chassis no.
Engine type
G box type
Sales model i.e. 7HM

I can have pull up pics specific for your van.
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  #5  
Old 23-08-10, 02:49
jfoldbar jfoldbar is offline
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Default Re: turbo

hi bill,
aug 2004. vin chassis wv1zzz7hz4h111508
2.5 5 cylinder tdi 128kw manual gearbox.
i dont know what sales model means. there is no other relevant information to identify this car in australia. 7hm has no meaning here.
however i do know they can come with 2 types of turbos, hence the 2 types of pics you posted. my turbo is a garret sg2 (written on side)
as yet service repair manuals are unavailable for t5's in australia. which es me off.

thanks
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Old 23-08-10, 16:25
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getrad getrad is offline
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Default Re: turbo

Put your vehicles details in and came up with same result as mine. I have a 2004 2.5 with 128kw, mine is a Caravelle. Your engine code is AXE ( 128 kw = 174 BHP) and your G-box is GWB. Do you have a transporter or caravelle.

Extract from Manual:

Special tools and workshop equipment required

Special wrench, long reach -VAS 3410


Info ref removing and installing turbocharger:

Caution
When a mechanical fault is found on the turbocharger, e.g. a destroyed compressor impeller, it is not only sufficient to renew the turbocharger. To prevent this from causing further damage, perform the following repairs:
Check air filter housing, air filter element and intake hoses for soiling.
Check complete charged air routing and charge air cooler for foreign objects.
If foreign objects are found in the charge air system, the charged air routing must be cleaned and the charge air cooler must be renewed, if necessary.


Separate all connecting and vacuum hoses from turbocharger.
Remove rear torque reaction support.

Remove bolts -1-, -2- and -3- from turbocharger.


Unscrew bolt -1- and nuts -2-.
Remove turbocharger from exhaust manifold.
Installing
Clean exhaust manifold connection using abrasive paper.
NoteThe abrasive paper grade must not be less than 100.
The sealing set consists of:
t Flange upper part → Item
t Flange lower part → Item
t Gasket → Item


Fix a new sealing set to exhaust manifold, e.g. using cable ties.
Guide turbocharger onto studs at engine block.
Caution
If the assembly sequence is not followed, the seal may be damaged and exhaust emissions may escape.

Tighten bolt -1-.
Specified torque: 18 Nm.
Tighten nuts -2-.


Specified torque: 40 Nm.
Remove cable tie from sealing set.
Fit bolts on turbocharger.


Insert gauge -T10348--1- in -direction of arrow A- and turn gauge -T10348- in -direction of arrow B-.


The gauge -T10348--1- must be located between the flange upper part and lower part.


Tighten bolts -1-, -2- and -3- to 5 Nm.
Loosen bolts by turning 180.
Remove gauge -T10348- from turbocharger.
Tighten bolts one by one to 30 Nm in 90 steps.
Then turn all bolts 180 further.
Remove rear torque reaction support.
Install particulate filter →


Well thats all the info from ELSAWIN. Bill

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  #7  
Old 23-08-10, 20:20
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gerryk gerryk is offline
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Default Re: turbo

Fair play for posting this. Should help out a lot of people on here
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  #8  
Old 25-08-10, 10:07
jfoldbar jfoldbar is offline
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Default Re: turbo

hi bill. thanks for the info, but as i said previously. ive thouroughly checked all over my engine for hours, and most of those pics are different to my engine, only 3 and 5 are even close(except bolts are slightly different). the others show parts that are just simply not on my engine. not really sure why, perhaps engines are slightly different from u.k. to australia. thanks for trying though.. by the way, mine is a transporter.
i decided at the moment i had no choice to get shop to put new turbo on. turbo guy reckons its quite common for turbos to soot up and over boost forcing limp mode. not just on vw's but all tdi with variable vain turbos. new one is about $1300 more than cleaning old one so thought better to buy new at the moment. will get mechanic to clean out egr as well while hes at it.
adrian
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  #9  
Old 29-08-10, 08:05
jfoldbar jfoldbar is offline
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Default Re: turbo

just thought id add a note for everyones knowledge. got a new turbo, cleaned egr and changed n75. problem ssems fine now. even the shuddering that i thought was clutch on way out has gone. how a turbo problem causes shudder i dont know. and now back to my usual 950km's from a tank instead of 750.
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  #10  
Old 12-06-13, 15:40
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Timpo Timpo is offline
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Default Re: turbo

Quote:
Originally Posted by getrad View Post




Folks, a quick question, as I have a screaching noise when van is loaded and excellerating with 3/4+ throttle....
The van is a 2004 2.5 130hp, engine AXD, and I believe some of the earlier units were manufactured without a sealing gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo, so as shown above as Part #10 or Part #21 on the exploded diagram.
If this is the case, and my van does not have the gasket, then I will need to seperate the turbo from the manifold, so I'm thinking if the manifold removal may be easier than taking the turbo off from under the vehicle? So, removing the 10 nuts (#9) from the head studs and the 3 bolts (#5) joining the manifold to the turbo. Hopefully if this is possible, I can a large percentage of the job from above the engine......

Please, those in the know, what do you think?

Funnily enough, the van runs fine, and goes like a train when loaded, it's just the noise is getting louder (or I seem to think so!)

Thanks in advance for any info.

Timpo.
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