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Installation of Solar Panel fitted to Roof bars

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47K views 55 replies 19 participants last post by  gimim  
#1 ·
Hi all,
Just a few pictures of my install of rigid solar panel to my aluminium roof bars.
I do not take credit for the idea as others have done this before me.
The reason for this post is to provide a little info about Rivnuts and how easy they are to use.
As I didn't want to use the normal plastic feet to hold the panel and I've read a lot about the failure rate of flexi panels, I decided to go down this route.
So,
First I ordered a 6mm rivnut tool from a British firm off Ebay and some 6mm aluminium rivnuts.
The drill size is 9mm for 6mm rivnuts by the way.
First job was to drill 3 x 9mm holes the roof crossbars
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Fit rivnuts using tool
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Using tool with 17mm spanner, this spreads the rivnut forming a captive nut that accepts bolts
The solar panel was then drilled to line with the rivnuts on the roof crossbars.
Cable gland fitted to roof and positioned to sit under panel.
Final installation of panel on roof.
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Hope this helps someone T:
 
J
#2 ·
This is a great guide and looks really neat, and those riv-nuts look like a masterful invention!

I've just slung in a wire for some hopeful future solar but left a load of length on it as i don't really know where to take it out or how to install the panels, haven't got any roof bars yet but if i do i will want to use them for canoes and such like so i don't know whether this work fully but it certainley is good food for thought!
 
J
#23 ·
Sorry to bring this back up, but can't believe i didn't reply, but yes this is a great idea and I'm going to order cross bars for solar and clamp ons for the canoes, as Hoovie suggested fit it to one side,

i must ask do you have a link to the rivnuts and tool from eBay, I've had look but can't see a tool quite like yours, also any recommendation on the panel, and roof bars much obliged!

cheers,

James
 
#4 ·
You really don't need to use those big cable boxes and drill through the roof though.
If you have a barn-door T5, you can use the spare tailgate hinge position to feed the cable through; if you have a tailgate T5, then there is ample room to feed the cables inside the shut panel between the D Pillar and the gas strut and then feed in behind the light cluster

Tied to the roof rail...
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Down the pillar ...
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If fitting just one panel, and you think you want to carry a canoe, etc, might be worth offsetting the panel to one side to give room and still have solar? Or also a bit of future-proofing to make it easier to add a second?
 
#7 ·
Hoovie said:
You really don't need to use those big cable boxes and drill through the roof though.

Hoovie
Depends if visible cables annoy, they do annoy me, hence the effort. It's neither right or wrong but we both have working solar panels.
It's good that we show the alternatives and with your method it provides a non drill and arguably less permanent solution T:
Click to expand...
 
#10 ·
All a good variety on the same theme!
I have to thank a number of forum members for all the ideas provided for me to fit my panel this way T:
Lets hope me fitting a solar panel this week is no kiss of death on the weather this summer :D
 
#19 ·
Thanks Methley - that's really useful!

I have a pop-top and Fiamma fixed awning and think using the rigid solar panels seems the best way to go to allow for some air flow & reduce the risk of failure & having to peel off a stuck on flexible panel. Your method is still reasonably low profile.
It looks like your cross members are fixed to the rails by angle brackets & does your Thule rack fit into the 8mm slot in the extrusion? I have no plans for a roof rack - but it's a useful option.
The end caps make a professional finish too - it's a shame they don't do an angled one though (or tapered) for the rails. Out of interest what is the wattage of your panel?

Excellent job - & thanks for the info & inspiration!
John
 
G
#56 ·
Johnhighfield said:
Thanks Methley - that's really useful!

I have a pop-top and Fiamma fixed awning and think using the rigid solar panels seems the best way to go to allow for some air flow & reduce the risk of failure & having to peel off a stuck on flexible panel. Your method is still reasonably low profile.
It looks like your cross members are fixed to the rails by angle brackets & does your Thule rack fit into the 8mm slot in the extrusion? I have no plans for a roof rack - but it's a useful option.
The end caps make a professional finish too - it's a shame they don't do an angled one though (or tapered) for the rails of RV solar panels. Out of interest what is the wattage of your panel?

Excellent job - & thanks for the info & inspiration!
John
Click to expand...
Hello. I have just ordered 100w solar panel and most of the other bits including MPPT controller.

But motorhome has roof rails and roof bars and am worried if I fix to roof will get a lot of shadowing on panel from them. Would I be better to fix to roof bars to avoid shadows.
 
R
#26 ·
Hoovie & jaj750

Love the solar panel fits, really smart. A:

Have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind.

What roof rails and cross bars are yours?

How thick is the solar panel you've used?

And if you put a straight edge across your roof rails what clearance is there to the highest point of the roof from the top of the rails? (Mine is 15mm)

Am looking at a similar install on my van, i've got 42mm rails, impossible to get cross bars for them, so have knocked some up from aluminium angle that will clamp on the top of my rail, just cannot get sufficient clearance from the roof without the panel sticking up loads more than yours and horrendously visible. Just wondering if your roof rails are 'taller' than mine.
 
#27 ·
I don't have the measurements of the rail height, but know the following ....

My solar panel is 30mm deep. It sits on an aluminium L bar of around 1mm thickness
I fitted mine so the top of the panel was flush to the top of the crossbar.
I am pretty sure that the top of my cross-bar is the same as the top of the rail. The cross-bars are also totally flat and not curved (some roof bars you can buy are curved).
I have awning rails fitted on both sides and these clamp between the gutter and the roof rails - the relevence of this is that they make the rails about 2-3mm higher then they otherwise would be.
I have about 3mm gap between the bottom of the panel and the highest part of the roof (which are the two ribs towards the centre of the roof)

OK, with all that in mind, I guess that means Top of the Roof to Top of the rail will work out to be approx 33 +/- 2mm , so a fair bit more then your 15mm :(
If you want to use solid panels, can't see a solution for a similar "stealth" install with those rails you have.
I don't have the link, but someone on the forum did a very neat install using a flexipanel mounted on an aluminium sheet that follows the roof curve and I *think* uses the VW roof mounts. Very clever, but I think it was also an pretty expensive installation IIRC.
 
R
#31 ·
Thanks Hoovie & Jaj for your helpful descriptions and measurements T:

looks like i either need to change my roof rails or build them up to make the clearance between the roof greater, or use a stick on panel, which I'm trying to avoid if at all possible in case of failure.

So i've got to gain at least 20mm in height, am pretty sure i can get a good portion of that by inserting a spacer under my rails existing feet, thinking cap on for the rest. . . I:

Many thanks both for your help A:
 
#33 ·
Post a photo of your existing setup .... Be easier to compare T:

The T5 roofs curves more then it appears I reckon. I checked beforehand for cleanance at the centre, but once fitted was a little surprised just how close it was there compared to the edges.
I can't recall if it is totally neccessary to trim the crossbars before fitting (I think probably not), but with mine, I did cut a small amount off so they would lie totally flat as I wanted them to follow the panel profile rather then curved to follow the roof profile.
 
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