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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has been an intermittent problem which now seems to have gotten serious.

The glow plug lights come on and go off, engine cranks over but doesn't fire. There is power getting to the glow plugs so I'm assuming a fuelling issue, probably stop solenoid or immobiliser. Before I crack on tomorrow with it, can anyone give me instructions on how to remove the immobiliser if that does indeed turn out to be the problem.

Cheers me dears. :ILU:
 

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Doesnt the imobilisor on the TD just control the stop solenoid on the pump? if so (be sure to check first) couldnt you just hotwire the solenoid to see if itll run... If it does then trace the fault back thru the electrics (or remove immobilisor )
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Doesnt the imobilisor on the TD just control the stop solenoid on the pump? if so (be sure to check first) couldnt you just hotwire the solenoid to see if itll run... If it does then trace the fault back thru the electrics (or remove immobilisor )
That's the bit I need info on. Not sure what to do to check the solenoid and remove the immobiliser if necessary. I should be able to work it out but was hoping someone had already done it, save me risking burning something out.
 

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Hi the immobiliser control unit is a common issue it is mounted behind the instrument cluster on the left hand side, if you plug into it chances are the diag machine won't read the immobiliser control unit. To sort either replace the control unit which will require the keys to be coded and the unit coding to ecu, or the other end of the immobiliser is the black unit bolted to the top of the fuel pump over the top of the stop solenoid the way I have got round this for people is to break the black unit off of the pump and remove the wiring to it, then connect an ignition live that remains live when engine is running to the stop solenoid this will bypass the immobiliser . Hope that makes sense
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right, here's the thing. Went out this morning to start taking the front off. Just thought i'd attach the battery to see if it would start and bang, on the button!!! :*

So here's my train of thought.
The under tray isn't currently on because I was working under there the other day and haven't put it back yet. If the alternator got wetter than normal because of the recent weather, would the battery get charged less leading to a drop in voltage when trying to start?
Would this voltage drop make the immobiliser kick in?
Once the immobiliser kicks in, is there a reset period?
Until the battery is back to full charge do i find myself in a vicious circle?

The only common factors between yesterdays strop and one it had a couple of weeks ago are;
The weather, i.e. heavy rain the day before.
The tray not being on (first time changing oil filter, second time replacing starter motor).
The engine started straight away after battery was on charge overnight.

Am I on the right track here or can anyone offer any other suggestions?
 

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Hi Mate

dont believe there is any reset period, it just immobilised or not.
if starter is turning there is enough power to run the immobiliser.

quick test is to crack an injector pipe and see if you are getting any fuel from the pump when turned over.

Sounds like you have a fuel cut off valve issue more than immobiliser issue.

Mike
 

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id say the shut off valve is sticking. Does it rev up a little by itself when you start it? Mine was doing that until i cleaned it up and put it back together...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
id say the shut off valve is sticking. Does it rev up a little by itself when you start it? Mine was doing that until i cleaned it up and put it back together...
I have noticed that a couple of times. I'll have a look at that next. Cheers.T:
 
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