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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the van as a non runner.The crank pulley was shot so I replaced it .The head was removed but there was no valve damage,it was cleaned up and refitted with a new gasket and bolts.No 1 piston(next to the belt) was set at tdc before fitting the head and the cam set so the locking plate could be fitted.The camshaft and ip pulleys were slackened and a new tensioner fitted.The belt was fitted with the flywheel marks still inline,camshaft locking plate in and the ip pulley locked with a 6.5mm drill bit.The belt was then tensioned and the ip pulley locked up and the camshaft bolt.locking tools removed and rotated twice by hand and all ok.I have fuel to the injectors under pressure and there is power to the glow plugs(all plugs checked and good out of head).The engine will not start or even try,could the pump timing be 180 degrees out with the engine?.Would this cause it not to start or just run bad?.
Any help on this would be much appreciated.
 

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timing could be 180 degrees out,when my belt was replaced the timing ended up 180 degrees out :eek: ran like but it ran,maybe cause yours has not been running and its been in bits it would harder to start anyway but with the timing out theres no chance of it starting :*
 

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Could the cam be out 180? The two lobs over cylinder 1 should be pointing up.
Not possible to time the cam 180 degs out as the cam lock will not fit unless cam is up on NO:1

timing could be 180 degrees out,when my belt was replaced the timing ended up 180 degrees out :eek: ran like but it ran,maybe cause yours has not been running and its been in bits it would harder to start anyway but with the timing out theres no chance of it starting :*
Find it dard to believe it would run at all if 180 degs out :*:*:*

Give a SMALL squirt of Easy Start and see if it runs if so timing must be about right,if it does then have you tried seeing if you have fuel at injectors while cranking??? dodgy ignition switch electrics are common.

Pump timing is only possible in 1 position
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fuel is at the injectors while cranking and is under pressure.I don't want to take the belt off and rotate the pump 360 without knowing for sure it is out,it could be correct and there is another problem.If I undo the injector unions and turn the engine by hand I should see fuel squirting out of each one in turn.With the engine at tdc and the 1st cam lobe pointing upwards to the front of the engine the inlet if I am correct will be shut.If I then turn it further so the lobe is on the follower the valve should be open and if the timing is correct no1 injector should fire.Can anyone confirm my thinking?,surely there is an exact way to set it up without just trying it then changing it?.
 

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aye it ran,mechanic still dont know how it happened,he never would have believed it if it was'nt him how done it :* it was very strange
 

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Fuel is at the injectors while cranking and is under pressure.I don't want to take the belt off and rotate the pump 360 without knowing for sure it is out,it could be correct and there is another problem.If I undo the injector unions and turn the engine by hand I should see fuel squirting out of each one in turn.With the engine at tdc and the 1st cam lobe pointing upwards to the front of the engine the inlet if I am correct will be shut.If I then turn it further so the lobe is on the follower the valve should be open and if the timing is correct no1 injector should fire.Can anyone confirm my thinking?,surely there is an exact way to set it up without just trying it then changing it?.
Maybe I was not clear
No need to rotate pump it only goes in 1 place......if you locked it with a drill its about right ........if you were to remove belt and turn it 360 degs it would be back in the same place....make sense??????you cannot have the pump timing far out if you have locked it with the drill
Turning the engine by hand will not delived fuel at the injector....the pump needs to be spinning faster than that to deliver the pressure required to "pop" the injector.
Correct method is
Cam lock
Pump lock
Flywheel mark
Belt on and adjust
dial gauge in through back of pump and fine tune delivery point
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies.How can you get it 180 out when no1 piston is at the top the cam and ip are locked?.Can no 1 piston be at the top but not at tdc,ie on the power stroke rather than compression?.
 

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Yes you could have it 180 degs out but only if you did not have the flywheel / bell housing marks aligned.only 1 tdc mark on flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes the marks were lined up but isn't there 2 rotations of the flywheel to one firing cycle?.
 

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TDC No:1 is only ever TDC No:1
Piston does not know which stroke its on untill told so by the camshaft
The timing issue comes with cam shaft / crank shaft 2:1 ratio
180 degs out is only possible if the cam is upside down
As long as lobes are pointing up and locking plate in then cam and crank are timed
 

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Been thinking
When you rebuilt did you drain the cam hydraulic tappets? I have known them to jack out too far and cause piston/valve contact.
Also why was it a non runner in the 1st place?
Did it have cam belt gone? Did you pull valves from the head and check for any bent? Don't need to be bent very much at all to cause a problem.
Have you done a compression test?
Silly but is the cam turning at both ends ? I have seen them fitted in one piece but tightened down wrong and then snapped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The crank pulley was shot and the bolt loose, I think the guy who I bought it off must have slackened it off looked at the pulley and put it back on.He said it was knocking and smoking before he pulled over.I removed the head expecting valve damage but there was no evidence at all of contact,not a mark on any of the valves or pistons.I then thought the timing had slipped causing diesel knock rather than valve to piston contact.The cam looked ok but I will have another look.I just refitted the head after a clean up and didn't drain the followers.I have not done a pressure test yet but if it won't start after a bit of tinkering with the pump timing it will be the next job.
 

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Is the flywheel TDC mark spot on?
Also, what damage was done to the crankshaft nose when the pulley failed? Usually the woodruff keyway gets mangled. If so then your timing will be out again after cranking if the pulley has slipped.

I may have missed it in the thread already, but is the engine turning over but just not firing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
After I set the belt up I removed the cam plate and the ip pin,I turned the engine twice and reset tdc with the flywheel mark.The cam plate and the ip pin were then refitted without needing to adjust anything.There seems to be some margin for error with the pump pin though but I did keep it at 90 degrees to the pulley to be as accurate as possible.The engine turns but will not fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The crank nose looked in good condition and the new pulley was a tight fit.It had the pump reconditioned about 30k miles since according to the previous owner.With regard to the immobiliser I presume it just runs the fuel cut off in the pump?,if so I have fuel squirting out of the injector unions.
 
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