VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum banner

12V outlet switching off with ignition

16K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  mindriot  
#1 ·
One of the most irritating oversights on the T5.1 which gives away its commercial van underpinnings is the fact that the 12V outlet in the cup holder does not switch off when the ignition switches off. I have to physically unplug the GPS charger to stop it from draining the battery. Irritating.

I decided to tap 12V from one driving light fuse circuit (LHS driving light I think) in the center fuse box (underneath the cup holder) by using a blown fuse as a tap, fitting a replacement fuse holder to hold the original fuse and tap 12V from the driving light circuit.

Image


The new 12V outlet was fitted above the accelerator pedal next to the diagnostic plug.

It works well initially (GPS reacts to 12V Ignition ON and turns on, but after a few minutes the GPS keeps on indicating that it has lost power supply. The GPS battery eventually dies...

There's no problem with the GPS itself - it works 100% when working off the 12V plug in the cup holder.

What can it be? The fuse spec for the driving light circuit is 5A. I fitted a 15A fuse to drive the 12V outlet for the GPS. Does the GPS not receive enough power? Or does the daylight circuit switch off and on whilst driving? Perhaps the circuit senses an incorrect load, but then I have had no faults showing on the dash?

Can anyone shed light on the matter?

If the driving light circuit is the wrong one to tap 12V from, which one is safe? This is a 2011 T5 2l 75Kw Caravelle.
 
#3 ·
I fitted an extra 12v socket in the dash tray for the sat nav and chargers, there's just enough room on the right hand side section to drill and fit it. This gets rid of annoying wires across the front of the radio.

Mine is wired straight from the ash tray socket so permanently on but I have a relay (which I haven't got round to fitting yet) which will interrupt the supply and be switched by the "key out" wire in the loom behind the glovebox.
 
#4 ·
Thanks. I haven't gone the relay route. I have been told to look for a "Terminal 15" circuit, which is fuse 1 on fusebox B (fuse box under radio, top section), but this circuit is always on (1-Fuse -30 A-Terminal 15 voltage supply relay -J329-30) .
I also tried the following fuse that looked harmless: 25-Fuse -7,5 A-Fresh air blower switch -E9-30, but this is an always-on circuit as well.

Reason why the driving light circuit I used doesn't work is that it detects a deviation from the prescribed perimiters when the GPS draws power and automatically shuts down the circuit - bummer!

So I am still looking for a harmless circuit that is ignition activated that does not mind an extra load...
 
#5 ·
Hi Everyone

I have recently bought a lwb Transporter 11 plate, I have used my sat nav in the 12v outlet no problem, but when I tried to charge my phone the fuse blew-or at least I think it has. I checked the handbook but there is no fuse list so rang vw Leicester who told me to check the fuse under the passenger seat, trouble is I don't think the seat moves, it's just mounted on a steel box! I have painstakingly removed and put a continuity test on all the fuses under the bonnet and the fuse panel under the pull out cup holder/12v outlet. I am lost without my sat nav, any suggestions?

Many thanks
 
#8 ·
I'm not sure that this is going to help the OP much, three+ years after they started the thread but, to answer your question: yes, it would, if you left it on long enough. But for most GPS receivers/phones you would have to leave it on a ~long~ time!

However, some other devices (e.g. tablets) can have quite high power consumption, and they would not take quite so long...
 
#11 · (Edited)
Then use a switched live tap from an existing wire in the dashboard.

Or try this : http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=944137

If you remove the stereo and centre tray and facia etc you can access the wiring to the fan speed control, one of which is a switched live. There is also permanent live wiring in the main loom you can access by removing the glove box.

I would suggest you dont place much extra power demand on switched live wiring, instead use a feed via a relay thats also tapped into a permanent live feed in the extra kit so the permanent live is switched with ignition, also put inline fuses on the switched and permanent live taps (properly rated), and use wiring with adequate csa for the total current demand youre powering, while also taking into account the csa of the original wiring youre taking the feeds from.

If that all sounds bit difficult the I suggest you consult a professional instead.