Crank timing is set by looking at the flywheel through an inspection hole in the top of the gearbox, there is a cast arrow on the inspection hole and a dash/line stamped on the flywheel, not always easy to see.

 

You will also need a dial gauge and access to vcds software to do the pump timing.

 

cam pulley is a taper fit, no key even though the pulley has a keyway and the mark on it is not relevant. Do you have access to a copy of autodata as it shows most of the process.

 

This is a good place to start off with my problem as well as some of it ties into the thread above.
Background is a T4 combi run into the ground, and then rescued after being used as a lounge in a African Township.
I took out the engine and replaced all replaceables except the crank and conecting rods.
puti it all together and it would'nt start. Put in new (second hand ) pump and injectors and it started but oil pressure dropped as soon as engine started to work. Pulled engine and put in a new oilpump to replace the new oilpump that was in there.
Put all back together and on first try discover a broken cam lifter. Replaced that, and the oil cooler just to be sure, took the head to engineering to smooth out the burring caused by the follower's demise, and replaced the camshaft as it showed some wear on the lobe driving the vacuum pump. Put it all back together , and now it refuses to start... Help please I am at wits end.

 

As I understand the pump timing, the keyway on the dieselpump shaft must be directly in line with the nr 1 fuel line. That would be the one at about 1 o clock if you look at the pump from the back, and imagine that it is the face of the clock. Keyway lining up with the centre of your pump, you would probably need a ruler, and a sharpie to transfer the line over to your keyway, or you can draw a line on the pump pulley when it is not on the shaft, and if they line up, it should start, bar a bit of fiddling with the timing when you loosen the nut on the taper fit pulley to get that engine sounding just right, that is if you can get it started ,(Which mine does not want to do..) If the engine is then at TDC it should start ..... or not as in my case..
I probably need dowel gauges and a lot of computers, but It did run when I had it at that setting.

 

You don't need "a lot of computers".....just an old laptop running Windows XP, an OBDII lead and a registered VCDS lite (99$).
Total cost in UK would be around £150....I'll let you convert to local currency.
Yeah, you have to get it running, and up to temp, but then VCDS shows when the timing is "correct"...55 on the graph.

 

You do not need to remove the pump pulley or see the keyway, you set the static timing with a 15mm tool/ 15mm tube that fits through one of the holes in the pump pulley and locks the position, if that is right then it should start.
My pump pulley on the 2.4 also has a notch in the pulley wheel which lines up with a notch on the pump mount bracket at about 9 oclock.

 

Help please my oil pressure is down... Dont know why?

Right as there does not seem to be an incredible reaction to this post, I shall carry on with the saga as I had to keep on working on my project T4. I took off the head again, as there seemed to exhaust gas coming from the water pipes, as we were attempting to start up. after taking off the cylinder head, and putting in a new gasket, again,
So indeed the head gasket had blown. Seems my trusty Mechanic did not Torque properly. This now the not so trusty mechanic. I did the torqueing myself this morning, she started right up , pump keyway going down towards 2 o clock , maybe a bit further. When you look at the pump from the back that is.

Now it seems I am back at Square one. Oil pressure is low, and declines as engine heats up.. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEA WHY IT DOES THIS?
I am measuring with a mechanical gauge , engine does sound good though.
To recap, New Mains , new Big ends and the two middle pistons , new rings, new Oilpump( FEBI Bilstein )twice over.
DID valves , cam followers: replaced 2 after one broke.
Replaced dieselpump and injectors.
Replaced Camahaft .

 

Oil pressure always drops when the cold oil warms up and thins down.

I'd advise buying a chinese VCDS lead and pm me for some software - you can get timing seemingly spot on with mechanical methods but the timing graph in VCDS/Vag com will get it spot on

 

Quote;
" I took off the head again, as there seemed to exhaust gas coming from the water pipes, as we were attempting to start up. after taking off the cylinder head, and putting in a new gasket, again, "

I hope you used new head bolts....they are a "one time fit" as they are designed to stretch as you torque them up.