VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Following on from my previous starting post gonna change the injector seals and was wondering whats involved and how much of a job is it. I've seen the seal kits on eBay at £10 each so not too costly.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,088 Posts
Stretch bolts needed for the injector rockers and for the injectors. They will cost you approx £80
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,265 Posts
Is there a how to thread for this ? I,d like to read up on it and see if I've got the confidence to have a go at it :eek:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,088 Posts
Is there a how to thread for this ? I,d like to read up on it and see if I've got the confidence to have a go at it :eek:
What you need to know :* done my injectors twice and a top end rebuild :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,265 Posts
Apart from basic oil servicing I've never worked on a t5 so an idiots guide would be great :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,088 Posts
Apart from basic oil servicing I've never worked on a t5 so an idiots guide would be great :)
Ok need to get the rocker cover off. This involves removing the inlet manifold and egr valve. Egr valve is easy but the manifold is a bit tricky as you need to remove the front including the radiators or there has been rumours of removing the rear engine mount so the engine pivots back enough to get to the inlet manifold with the radiators in place. Remove the rocker cover by undoing 12 10mm hex bolts and remove. You will see the injector rockers right on the top which is bolted to the cam saddle and it is a two piece shaft. Remember how this comes off as it needs to go back the same way. Remove the shafts by undoing the 8 torq bolts and put them somewhere where you can't put them back, remove the shafts to give access to the injectors. Unplug each injector by pulling on the plug and not the wires unless you are replacing the loom. Once unplugged remove the plastic cable trunking out the way to get access to the injector torq screws, they are on the left of the injector and they hold down a block which hold onto the injector. The block can be removed once the injector is spun a bit or removed. There is a puller for the injector to be removed but oi used to levers like you would use for repairing a puncture or to large blade screw drivers. Put one either side of the injector and alternate levering the injector slowly but with a bit of force. The injector should come out.you will see the injector seals but also replace the copper washer on the bottom.replacing is in reverse replacing the injector bolts with new as well as the rockers. Can't remember off hand the injector or rocker torque setting but its somewhere on here. If I find it I will post it up :) I think its 8nm plus a further 3\4 turn and the rockers 24nm with a further 1\2 turn. Set up the injector rocker by...turn the engine over by jacking up one wheel and put in top gear, turn the wheel until the first rocker is at its lowest. You would be better off with a vernier gauge so you know when your at its lowest. At this point undo the locking but and turn the adjuster in until it reaches the bottom of its travel, turn back 1\2 turn and hold it until you have done the locking nut up.then you can do the other 4 :)if you replace the injectors then replace these adjusters as they wear with the injectors. Then replace back the injector loom unless your placing, if so you need to remove the cam saddle on the right hand side so you can remove the socket. When fitted back replace the can saddle stretch bolts and use a seal mastic as recommended by vw or a rtv silicon, if not it leaks oil. Seal on the rocker cover is part of the cover and can't be replaced on its own, just put some sealant on the internal corners or it may leak. Put it all back together again and it should work T:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,536 Posts
Ok need to get the rocker cover off. This involves removing the inlet manifold and egr valve. Egr valve is easy but the manifold is a bit tricky as you need to remove the front including the radiators or there has been rumours of removing the rear engine mount so the engine pivots back enough to get to the inlet manifold with the radiators in place. Remove the rocker cover by undoing 12 10mm hex bolts and remove. You will see the injector rockers right on the top which is bolted to the cam saddle and it is a two piece shaft. Remember how this comes off as it needs to go back the same way. Remove the shafts by undoing the 8 torq bolts and put them somewhere where you can't put them back, remove the shafts to give access to the injectors. Unplug each injector by pulling on the plug and not the wires unless you are replacing the loom. Once unplugged remove the plastic cable trunking out the way to get access to the injector torq screws, they are on the left of the injector and they hold down a block which hold onto the injector. The block can be removed once the injector is spun a bit or removed. There is a puller for the injector to be removed but oi used to levers like you would use for repairing a puncture or to large blade screw drivers. Put one either side of the injector and alternate levering the injector slowly but with a bit of force. The injector should come out.you will see the injector seals but also replace the copper washer on the bottom.replacing is in reverse replacing the injector bolts with new as well as the rockers. Can't remember off hand the injector or rocker torque setting but its somewhere on here. If I find it I will post it up :) I think its 8nm plus a further 3\4 turn and the rockers 24nm with a further 1\2 turn. Set up the injector rocker by...turn the engine over by jacking up one wheel and put in top gear, turn the wheel until the first rocker is at its lowest. You would be better off with a vernier gauge so you know when your at its lowest. At this point undo the locking but and turn the adjuster in until it reaches the bottom of its travel, turn back 1\2 turn and hold it until you have done the locking nut up.then you can do the other 4 :)if you replace the injectors then replace these adjusters as they wear with the injectors. Then replace back the injector loom unless your placing, if so you need to remove the cam saddle on the right hand side so you can remove the socket. When fitted back replace the can saddle stretch bolts and use a seal mastic as recommended by vw or a rtv silicon, if not it leaks oil. Seal on the rocker cover is part of the cover and can't be replaced on its own, just put some sealant on the internal corners or it may leak. Put it all back together again and it should work T:

So what you saying??I:

What a helpful post Chris , A:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,265 Posts
Cheers festa thanks for taking the time to write that, you make it sound straightforward enough A:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the write up festa! Hoped it didn't involve the front end coming off,but in the back of my mind I knew it was. Every time I remove the front bumper I keep saying it'll be the last time and how wrong am I. Guess it won't be as cheap as I originally thought when I looked at the injector seal kits.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,088 Posts
Thanks for the write up festa! Hoped it didn't involve the front end coming off,but in the back of my mind I knew it was. Every time I remove the front bumper I keep saying it'll be the last time and how wrong am I. Guess it won't be as cheap as I originally thought when I looked at the injector seal kits.
As said and don't know if it works but next time I'll take the back mount off and tilt the engine back. Its got to be quicker than removing the front rads and that. The frame for the rads are a pain to get back on on your own. I'm glad it was kinda understandable as my spelling and grammer isn't good :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Had a look at the fan cowls the other day and was wondering if it was possible to remove the fans from the rad. Looks like its just fastened to the rad with torque screws and with the fans removed would give enough clearance to remove the inlet manifold. Any thoughts on this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
812 Posts
The rumours would be from me about removing the rear mount T: Do it, it allows you to get your arm down in front of the fans and intake manifold, there is NO need to strip the front end down.

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/album.php?albumid=18293

Thought I had taken more pics of the work but have a look at the album and you should be able to see the turbo nearly touching the firewall. You will see where to place the jack and block of wood after removing the rear engine mount which is to the right of the exhaust. Four smaller bolts on the legs of the mount and one larger through the middle of the rubber, think it's a 16mm. T:
This will save you hours. Garage I went to won't do it any other way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
812 Posts
Following on from my previous starting post gonna change the injector seals and was wondering whats involved and how much of a job is it. I've seen the seal kits on eBay at £10 each so not too costly.
when you take the rocker cover off to do the seals you will be able to see if their is wear on the camshaft at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
812 Posts
Well known for it pal, just replaced cam, exhaust manifold, glow plugs, starter motor, and injector seals. Next big thing would be the Auto box, aint going to wait for that to pack in, will sell it on soon after converting it.

If you find it is worn then I would seriously recommend getting a head complete with cam already assembled to bolt on, this will save you time and money if you aren't doing all the work yourself. Wish I had done that from the beginning as it would have saved on labour costs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well can't wait now! Anybody got a good thing to say about these 2.5 axd engines? Cos at the moment all I'm seeing is £££'s disappearing. Just hoping this is all worst case scenario stuff. Will be doing all the work my self so should cut costs,but parts are still expensive !!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,640 Posts
Well can't wait now! Anybody got a good thing to say about these 2.5 axd engines? Cos at the moment all I'm seeing is £££'s disappearing. Just hoping this is all worst case scenario stuff. Will be doing all the work my self so should cut costs,but parts are still expensive !!!!
It's going to bleed you dry!

If only everything in life was as reliable as a volkswagen! Not.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top