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Cam wear is normally due to wrong oil. Don't believe that the 507.1 is good for the engine as a change over oil. Its not the same spec and on a pre dpf could increase wear in bearings. Use the 0w-30 oil that should be in that engine. On a brighter note they go better than the 1.9:D
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yeah your right they do go well and very nice to drive. I'm going to start ripping the top end apart as soon as my mrs new car arrives from the factory just hope it's soon. Then that will mean we've got two VW's on the drive. Just hope that its engine is better designed than the 5 pot audi lump.
 

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Speaking of how well they go, I was at the bottom of the hill tonight just as it list from two to three lanes, Audi and Ranger Rover Sport went past me, when I go the chance I put it in Sport and booted it, left them both for dust :D. Range Rover wound his window down at the top of the hill to have a look at my van lol T:
I do wonder if some of the engine wear is partly from my heavy right foot I:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well finally got round to doing injector seals and replaced the loom and glow plugs at the same time. Found that only one glowplug was working out of the 5. Also checked the camshaft and looks fine. Cleaned inlet manifold and egr which I've now blanked off. Still got very simalar fault as before I did all the work. Starts first time about a second from cranking, but from very cold runs lumpy for a couple of seconds and emits a little bit of white/grey smoke. Then idles fine and doesn't smoke after that! Now I'm wondering what else could it be as I've replaced all the usual stuff
 

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Well finally got round to doing injector seals and replaced the loom and glow plugs at the same time. Found that only one glowplug was working out of the 5. Also checked the camshaft and looks fine. Cleaned inlet manifold and egr which I've now blanked off. Still got very simalar fault as before I did all the work. Starts first time about a second from cranking, but from very cold runs lumpy for a couple of seconds and emits a little bit of white/grey smoke. Then idles fine and doesn't smoke after that! Now I'm wondering what else could it be as I've replaced all the usual stuff
Did you get the injectors checked while they were out or was it just the injector seals you did :*
 

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Discussion Starter #27
No just did the seals as I found a couple of suspect seals and knackered glow plugs. Also it's not done mega miles 120,000. Have been thinking that may be I've got a leaking injector now that I've done the usual suspects, but only does it when really cold and doesn't smoke or do anything strange once started also pulls like an absolute animal through the gears puts my old 130 transit sport to shame. And sounds better too.
 

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For the extra cost I would have sent the injectors off and get them checked as the biggest expense is getting them in and out. I assume you have replaced the fuel filter as some of them collapse inside and restrict fuel delivery. Fill the pain though as it looks like the end is not in sight but you could be nearly there T:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Would have probably sent injectors off if I hadn't found anything suspect. Would have thought injectors to do a bit more miles as we don't change them that much on the fords or mazda. Gave it a full service using genuine about 4000 miles ago but might change filter again just as process of elimination. On the plus side sorted all the little leaks of oil one from rocker cover and other from the injector loom plug.
 

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Hi,

I replacing the injector seals, do I have to reset the rocker gap if installing the same injectors in the same positions ?

If so is there a tappet setting for the injector /rocker gap ? I read somewhere that you can rotate the cam to making sure injector cam is at TDC (so injector is fully open) adjust the screw all the way in until you feel it bottom out then back it off 180 degrees and lock off ?

Also could do with the torque settings for injector bolt and rocker bolts ?

I have been trying to fix the issue of fuel draining back to the tank, must be an air leak somewhere to allow this to happen. I have replaced fuel lines from filter to engine, filter, high pressure pump, the tank pump primes ok, the injector seals are the last thing to try. (no fuel in the oil but I'm running out of ideas).

Cheers,
Lee
 

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It's going to bleed you dry!

If only everything in life was as reliable as a volkswagen! Not.



Sorry I pulling up an old tread, but the question of chris0265 discribes exactly what is in my mind.
English is not my mothertongue and I'm not sure here if you are serious or sarcastic:*


So is nothing as reliable as a volkswagen, or is volkswagen not as reliable as eveybody think/wish/says?




PS: because I did not want to pull up this old tread I tryed to sent a PM, but your box is full.
 

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Sorry I pulling up an old tread, but the question of chris0265 discribes exactly what is in my mind.
English is not my mothertongue and I'm not sure here if you are serious or sarcastic:*


So is nothing as reliable as a volkswagen, or is volkswagen not as reliable as eveybody think/wish/says?




PS: because I did not want to pull up this old tread I tryed to sent a PM, but your box is full.
Normalbloke hasn't logged in for over 3 years but I think he means with his comment that vw is no more reliabe as any other vehicle now days.
Injector seals once redone will help with the bad starting but they won't last as long. The way the injectors are rocked back and forth fret in there bores and damage the bore they sit in. On average the head will require replacement as the bores can't be repaired easily and most of the time the repair cost outways the cost of a new head. Ok you'll have more material to buy to replace the head but it will last longer
The new 'O' rings will get damaged from the uneven surface of the bore walls which will increase the wear on the new 'O' ring
 

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As said and don't know if it works but next time I'll take the back mount off and tilt the engine back. Its got to be quicker than removing the front rads and that. The frame for the rads are a pain to get back on on your own. I'm glad it was kinda understandable as my spelling and grammer isn't good :D
Perhaps this topic is dead by now but since 2009, no one has added further inspiration! Currently dealing with white smoke so have the injectors off. Followed the convention: place front in service position, which involves removing bumper but not an issue. Also if airconditioned, then not a good idea to remove the radiator. As regards tilting the engine, Can’t imagagine how a sensible gap can be had by tilting sufficiently, unless exhaust is out of way!
Then the question is: why, always, injectors show wear on the right hand side? Does this wear indicate the end of life necessitating replacement?
Then the confusion re: injectors timing adjustment; respective injector roller at the highest position whist it’s adjustment screw is fully retracted( hence requiring DTi as by eye alone, there can be infinite highest positions!). Then adjustment screw fully in till spring fully compressed. Then back 1/4 turn( here there are many variations: 1/4, 1/2, 3/4). Haynes says 1/4! Haynes also says turn engine by special tool placed on the end of crankshaft after removing the flange plate. Don’t be conned, can never remove the flange in situ! But can remove crankshaft cover though you need a new replacement afterwards/ not expensive. Turning the tyre on one wheel up in the it won’t allow seeing the camshaft positions to do micro adjustments especially when DTI-ing
For the best highest point.
So, why shiny right hand side on the injectors?
 

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Here is a belated reply: the wear on the injector body opposite the clamp- is caused by poor design quality of the clamps. One sided clamp under stressful and the heavy loads in operation is a bad idea hence only affecting the side which is not under the clamping forces. Disgusted by the way VW have got away with it for so long as the ultimate damage is to the head with no solution but replacement at extortionate costs! Ford Transit had some issues with the clamps on early models but they managed to modify and correct the clamp design quite soon afterwards, although even the early problematic clamps were also of the superior fork design, they managed to improve on it by making it more substantial to ensure engine vibrations did not affect the position of the injectors in relation to the injector ports in the head. So shame on the greedy VW.
 
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