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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Well tank out and pump changed for a new one.
I have ran it up to the temperature where it normally falters and dies and everything seems to be good.
But on wiring the tank sender unit I must of clocked up on the blue and black wire. Because once I put 25 litres in it the fuel light went off but the guage is still on empty.
Is their a plug where the wires are accessible to swap them over or am I going to have to remove it all again?!

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
187054

VCDS is still dropping out as if it's loosing connection.
But it isn't rising as high anymore.
I have left it in my work unit tonight and will test how well it starts in the morning.

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Well it's all back together, with a working fuel guage now.
Only done about 30 miles in it today.
So we will see how it starts tomorrow morning as it's gonna be a hard frost tonight.

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
160 miles travelled 3 very cold starts and all seems well.
Am I speaking to soon, as I was gonna leave the fixed comment till June 2021?

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Heyskull, if you get a chance can you log measuring block 004 and post a picture ?also is this with the cam sensor connected or is it still disconnected? Happy new year or is it just a new year
 

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Well tank out and pump changed for a new one.
I have ran it up to the temperature where it normally falters and dies and everything seems to be good.
But on wiring the tank sender unit I must of clocked up on the blue and black wire. Because once I put 25 litres in it the fuel light went off but the guage is still on empty.
Is their a plug where the wires are accessible to swap them over or am I going to have to remove it all again?!

SC
Does the pump sit on the sender unit mate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Does the pump sit on the sender unit mate?
Yes the sender clips to the pump.
I hadn't pushed one of the connectors home.
Isn't it amazing that it takes a quarter of the time to do the same job twice?!!!

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Heyskull, if you get a chance can you log measuring block 004 and post a picture ?also is this with the cam sensor connected or is it still disconnected? Happy new year or is it just a new year

Yes still running without a cam sensor connected 34,000 miles later...

Here is the readout with measuring block 004.

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187164
 

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Why are you still running without the camshaft sensor connected?. Is it possible to have 004 with the cam sensor connected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Why are you still running without the camshaft sensor connected?. Is it possible to have 004 with the cam sensor connected?
As you see it is possible to have 004 with the cam sensor connected.
I believe the camshaft is out slightly by whoever rebuilt the engine.
I also heard the camshaft gearing can be placed 180 degrees out.
Honestly it is such a big job on these engines and their is no one local with the knowledge to repair this.
I'm fairly mechanically capable is this an easy job to rectify as I believe the engine will run better with the camshaft sensor operational?

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Cam sensor is under the tandum pump and is just a plug in. I assume you have had the engine check light up on the dash as well being a bnz? I know there a pain and not many get involved but things being correct will or should help with the reliability of the engine. In block 004 the start of injection you have at idle is 1.9 deg before tdc and it should be around 5 deg and then plug 6 deg for every 1000 rpm. If the injector duration is still the same then you could have increased nox levels and effect emissions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Cam sensor is under the tandum pump and is just a plug in. I assume you have had the engine check light up on the dash as well being a bnz? I know there a pain and not many get involved but things being correct will or should help with the reliability of the engine. In block 004 the start of injection you have at idle is 1.9 deg before tdc and it should be around 5 deg and then plug 6 deg for every 1000 rpm. If the injector duration is still the same then you could have increased nox levels and effect emissions.
No engine check lights on and never has had.
I tried a couple of none original cam sensors and they plugged in and ran but eventually paid for an original which it will not run with!
How easy is it to set the cam timing up properly?

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No engine check lights on and never has had.
I tried a couple of none original cam sensors and they plugged in and ran but eventually paid for an original which it will not run with!
How easy is it to set the cam timing up properly?

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That's very odd, should be getting an open circuit fault code and a check engine light. Has someone mapped out the sensor, or disabled the light so it gets through an MOT?
 

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That's very odd, should be getting an open circuit fault code and a check engine light. Has someone mapped out the sensor, or disabled the light so it gets through an MOT?
I don't think the in tank pump is the primary cause of the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Bluezie
The light does come on with the ignition as it should.
I have checked the clocks and they have not been tampered with.
How would you / why why would you map the sensor out as when plugged in the engine will not start. I have heard this is an issue with the timing not been set correctly.

Festa
If the tank pump was not the issue I am certain it has helped it asI have now found that it primes on turning the ignition on but continues once the engine is running..
I am no longer having problems of the long starting issues on a morning and if left idling for a long time the deviation values do not all go to+/-2.99 and then cut out.
If it wasn't the in tank pump I still feel this is or was a fuelling issue and the deviation values were the way the system was trying to compensate for lack of fuel.
Bloody headache anyway you look at it and very strange for it to come up with the same fault 12 months later.

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Bluezie
The light does come on with the ignition as it should.
I have checked the clocks and they have not been tampered with.
How would you / why why would you map the sensor out as when plugged in the engine will not start. I have heard this is an issue with the timing not been set correctly.

Festa
If the tank pump was not the issue I am certain it has helped it asI have now found that it primes on turning the ignition on but continues once the engine is running..
I am no longer having problems of the long starting issues on a morning and if left idling for a long time the deviation values do not all go to+/-2.99 and then cut out.
If it wasn't the in tank pump I still feel this is or was a fuelling issue and the deviation values were the way the system was trying to compensate for lack of fuel.
Bloody headache anyway you look at it and very strange for it to come up with the same fault 12 months later.

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SC
If you plug in the cam sensor the van doesn't run? then there is still a problem that needs to be fixed. The ecu will default to use the crank sensor for injection but it should still throw up a fault to say either a open circuit on the cam sensor or the sensors don't line up at tdc ( there;s a word for it but can't think of it at the moment) so you hve had two problem's ...a starting issue and a running issue. The lift pump is a priming pump and doesn't run all the time, a cam sensor does run all the time. if the timing is out then why not get this fixed as well if you know it's not right? It maybe a ball ache to do with most stuff disconnected and using a timing tool to get it right. There seems to be so many people who think they can set the timing without the tool but you also have to set the pre load on the gears at the same time...it's not as easy as a cam belt.
 

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whats missing in my head ..is where's a fault code if the sensor disconnected...or even a flashing glow plug symbol

000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 000 - Implausible Signal
 

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If the sensor is disconnected you should have an 'open or short to ground / short to plus' type code and a CEL
If the sensor is connected but mis timed you could have a 'no correlation' code or the 'implausible signal' one posted above, and again a CEL
Both scenarios are major faults, and should throw codes and a CEL, Something not right here, confused.com!

I would say, either the timing gear is 180 degrees out due to a mis-fitting locking tool, or the gear is 1/2 a tooth out due to incorrect timing procedure with the backlash.
 
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