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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, just doing my o/s drive shaft and stub and thought I would share this info with you.
If you get a GKN stub shaft from Euro's they list the standard part for a T5 2.5 (euro number 654448480) but you will be better off fitting the later modified longer stub shaft (euro number 654441810).
Its only £25 extra.
 

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Hi, just doing my o/s drive shaft and stub and thought I would share this info with you.
If you get a GKN stub shaft from Euro's they list the standard part for a T5 2.5 (euro number 654448480) but you will be better off fitting the later modified longer stub shaft (euro number 654441810).
Its only £25 extra.
Is this for 6 speed or 5 speed tho as they different I think. It doesn't list it's the modified one
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is this for 6 speed or 5 speed tho as they different I think. It doesn't list it's the modified one
It's for the 6 speed, I found out later after I fitted you also need to fit the later 6 speed T5.1 drive shaft to go with the later longer stub as the splines are slightly thicker.
 

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It's for the 6 speed, I found out later after I fitted you also need to fit the later 6 speed T5.1 drive shaft to go with the later longer stub as the splines are slightly thicker.
Are you sure? I fitted a long spline T5.1 stub to T5 driveshaft, and it's a perfect fit. Couldn't see any difference in splines apart from length. Now done 2 years and 25K.
If the T5.1 stub splines were bigger, they wouldn't fit in a T5 driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you sure? I fitted a long spline T5.1 stub to T5 driveshaft, and it's a perfect fit. Couldn't see any difference in splines apart from length. Now done 2 years and 25K.
If the T5.1 stub splines were bigger, they wouldn't fit in a T5 driveshaft.
100% sure, if you start reading the thread below from post 64 you will see that the later longer stub has narrower splines and the later driveshaft has been strengthened with thicker splines.
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=356421&page=7
 

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I've read the post and see what you mean. Logically, you would think the splines would be beefier on the T5.1 stub, but I suppose the stub is the harder metal, so they have beefed the driveshaft instead.
So, It looks like the advice on a thread on here from 2 years ago was inaccurate, and I now have another potentially faarkt driveshaft and stub. I used a whole tube of the correct VW grease on the splines, so would never have seen any slight play in the joint when reassembling. I must say, the take up of drive has been more clonky then I would expect from a new driveshaft.
Not sure what to do now , wait until it's all worn out again, buy a T5 stub, or buy a T5.1 driveshaft.

Gotta do the strut top bearing soon for the MOT, so I'll take a look at the condition of it all - the state of the grease will be the indicator of wear. This aint what I was expecting to hear, I was hoping to grease every 2 years and make it last ages.
 

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Tommo 026 has the same problem :( he had his gearbox rebuilt and whilst it was in had the drive shafts replaced, the clonk is still there and there is play in the offside shaft. This is where I think the gearbox place had fitted an updated stub and left there other bit original A new shaft and matching stub from Tps is over £600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've read the post and see what you mean. Logically, you would think the splines would be beefier on the T5.1 stub, but I suppose the stub is the harder metal, so they have beefed the driveshaft instead.
So, It looks like the advice on a thread on here from 2 years ago was inaccurate, and I now have another potentially faarkt driveshaft and stub. I used a whole tube of the correct VW grease on the splines, so would never have seen any slight play in the joint when reassembling. I must say, the take up of drive has been more clonky then I would expect from a new driveshaft.
Not sure what to do now , wait until it's all worn out again, buy a T5 stub, or buy a T5.1 driveshaft.

Gotta do the strut top bearing soon for the MOT, so I'll take a look at the condition of it all - the state of the grease will be the indicator of wear. This aint what I was expecting to hear, I was hoping to grease every 2 years and make it last ages.
I didn't notice the slack either when I first fitted mine but as it never felt right I took it back out a while later.
Euro's gave me another shaft but this time the shorter stub, my oe shorter stub did 120k before it needed changing.
 

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I didn't notice the slack either when I first fitted mine but as it never felt right I took it back out a while later.
Euro's gave me another shaft but this time the shorter stub, my oe shorter stub did 120k before it needed changing.
How many miles did you do on the longer stub before going back to the shorter one, and was there any wear on the driveshaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How many miles did you do on the longer stub before going back to the shorter one, and was there any wear on the driveshaft?
Less than a months, I probably could have got away with just changing the stub shaft but as I took both the shaft and stub back to Euro's they changed them both.
At the end of the day Euro's were really good because it was actually my mistake, I was the one that asked for the later stub when ordering the bits because at that time I didn't know that a longer stub had to go with the later type shaft etc.

I may be doing my n/s drive shaft later today, I thought I may have wear in my diff as I still have some clunking but this morning I put a bar under my o/s drive shaft where it goes over the stub and there is some up and down movement.

I will report back if my n/s stub is worn also as this side is not common to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Changed the n/s drive shaft and stub on Friday, did have some wear on it and you could lift the end of the shaft up and down on the stub slightly if you put a bar on the top of the sub frame.
 
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