[festa]

Something doesn't look right on the position of the camshaft in the first batch of pictures. I'll look at mine tomorrow and get a picture as the head is off the van again with the camshaft out. It will fire and can be upto around 3 deg out but much more than this you'll have trouble.

 

[festa]

To get the timing right even if it's a tooth out it will require the cam gear to be loosened off and moved. The intermediate gear just take up the space produced by the different thicknesses of head gaskets

 

[festa]

No.... you loosen the camshaft gear...you loosen the intermediate gear...you adjust the intermediate gaer using the two prong tool that's supplied in the kit to fine adjust the camshaft gear so the mark lines up..

 

[festa]

That will be why I can't get it then 😂 I'll have annother look tomorrow!

In the book it just talks about starting at the 12 o'clock position and having a force of 0.5nm anticlockwise on the two prongs.
I take it the mark on the eccentric pin can be anywhere then so long as the mark on the cam is aligned ?

Yes ....you start at 12 and work around to 9. The mark on the camgear should move closer to the head, but it depends on where the mark on the camgear starts from.

 

[festa]

Seen this before ... The marks on the essentric pin needs to be at 12o'clock and move it through to 9 pm, but the cam gear can't be tightened up on the camshaft as it will put the cam lobes themselves in a wrong position.

 

[festa]

Yeah this is what I was thinking, 1 tooth here would equal 1/2 tooth on the cam pulley. Which is what I've got crank is locked the other end. How do you go about adjusting?

You have removed the inner pin and the outer adjuster as well as the gear. On the plate that comes down from the camgear there is a mark at around 9 oclock which shound line up with the inner adjuster which the gear runs on, look carefully as it is there....these marks must line up. Then the eccentric pin can be fitted and set for 12 oclock, put cam gear on and hand tighten the bolt and you should be able to get the mark on the cam gear bang on....remember to well oil all parts of the adjuster so it can all move freely.

 

[festa]

The concentric pin is the adjuster...it has nothing to do with the other marks and those marks in the wrong place won't make a difference to the timing. The cam gear needs to be loose with the camshaft locked with the key, this shouls keep the cylinder 1 valve lobes in the upward position. There is two parts of the concentric gear and itnees the pin to be oiled so it can adjust with the two pin tool.The pin also needs to go in a certain position to start and then there is another mark on the outer part that needs to be lined up with it's own mark. What Curtis done was a wasted exercise.

 

[festa]

The reason I had to strip down the covers for the gear train is so that I could adjust the timing by 1 tooth relative to the crank (1/2 tooth cam) in order for the cam sensor to see the correct value.

So how did this help with moving the cam gear by ! tooth? there is no adjustment of any kind under the gear cover. You could have just removed the cam gear from the end of the camshaft and turned it over by hand to advance or retard by one tooth. The concentric gear would then give you a finer adjustment before you tighten the cam gear to the end of the camshaft.. I've stripped and built a few of these engines now and I can't understand how you have done this.

 

[festa]

Bonjour pourriez vous donner les couples de serrage des 5 vis du pignon intermédiaire sur la cascade de pignon merci d'avance

"Hello, could you give you the tightening torques of the 5 screws of the intermediate pinion on the sprocket cascade, thank you in advance"
There isn't any torque values for those bolts as VW state they're a non serviceable part and the gears are not replaceable..