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Hello, good to everyone. Pardon my literal translation.

I've been taking a look at this page the problem we have all in common with the depressing brake (which costs money) Here I put a very inexpensive solution that makes it last depressor brake more than the original, this is the http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=179323.300 theme from page 21 begins to explain very well how to replace the rubber coming down through a checkpoint or collar (much more rigid and resistant) I I fixed it and it worked perfect. I encourage you to check it out and translate and just over 5 € or 3 pounds.

Regards.
 

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Hello, good to everyone. Pardon my literal translation.

I've been taking a look at this page the problem we have all in common with the depressing brake (which costs money) Here I put a very inexpensive solution that makes it last depressor brake more than the original, this is the http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=179323.300 theme from page 21 begins to explain very well how to replace the rubber coming down through a checkpoint or collar (much more rigid and resistant) I I fixed it and it worked perfect. I encourage you to check it out and translate and just over 5 € or 3 pounds.

Regards.
Looks interesting. Need to get a better translation than Google!
My only worry would be replacing such a vital OEM component with something non-OEM (just my initial reaction, pending the full translation...)

Muchas gracias !
 

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Following on from viseon, another piece of info from a foreign forum, this time the French T4zone:

The "how to" on their site says to undo the pump retaining bolts a few turns to slack it off, then turn the crank pulley slowly until the cam is at its furthest away from the arm (as far as can be judged). This makes reassembly easier. Then take off the pump.

FWIW...
 

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Just my two penneth worth.

I carried out this repair at the weekend.

I used the replacement seal in the link attached on previous posts.

What a massive difference it has made.

More brake feeling, easier smoother clutch action.

Engine now sounds beautiful and smooth.:)

It has even got rid of a annoying vibration noise that I thought was the gearbox layshaft.

Falling back in love with my bus again.

My advice would be to make sure you have access to a press. It just makes life so much easier and quicker when rebuilding the spring.

T:
 

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I'm replacing my vacuum pump in the next few weeks. I just wanted to clear up one query:

I have the new pump. Is there another piece that goes between the pump and the cam? I've seen an "intermediate cam follower" on the VAG website and I don't know if I have to replace that too...?

Thanks
 

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Can anyone describe the sound this rattle/vibration ? I have a sound which I can't put my finger on but sounds like a wheel bearing that's knackered but is still there when my bus has stopped only slower and chirps away, the sound gets louder as the bus speeds up Just trying to rule things out
Thanks stew
 

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Sounds like a ticking tappet, If you pump the brakes and deplete the vacuum it should go quiet, gets louder as the engine ticks over as vacuum builds again.
 

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Thanks gunman, I don't think its that then as it's more of a chirping sound rather than ticking ! Back to the search I think !!
Cheers stew
 

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Mine chirped. Few weeks later it began to screech at every cold startup.

Turned out to be a failing damper pulley. £ker-ching.
 

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Thanks Redpla, I'll look into that I've never heard a screeching sound but I suppose their all different thanks again
Stew
 

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Well I've done this and now I have hardly any brakes?
I'm not sure all valves are in correct place though. Can anyone confirm if the plastic housing piece goes into the hole on right of the two and also where the tiny Spring should be located as when dismantling it all flew apart. Thanks in advance if anyone can give me the info.
 

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I've just done this fix on my vac pump (Pierburg pump on a 2.5tdi, 2002 ), I drained the oil form the pump and replaced the small piston rod seal with the blue one shown on the Spanish post.
I've just taken the van for a 3 miles run and the pump works much better now, with no tapping and also more vacuum :)
But I have noticed that now the pump gets really hot, after the run I could just about touch it, but it was close to burning me.

I didn't do the 'finger temperature test' before I fixed the pump and now I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm thinking that if the new oil seal prevents any oil entering the piston chamber then how does it get lubricated? I did smear some light oil around the piston before I reassembled but I'm not sure if this enough to keep it moving and greased.

Has anyone got any ideas on this, am I being paranoid or could the pump be overheating and then fail? Can someone please touch their pump,(ooh err):eek: and let me know how hot it gets.

thanks
 

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Just driven 90 miles at mixed speed, last 30 at 70mph, my vac pump is very hot, touch it and no burn but I wouldn't like to press my finger on it.

It is bolted to the block when all said and done, and that is hot too

Hope this helps

Chris
 

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My van is my everyday vehicle , how many hours would this job take and how difficult is it to do ? I'm told it's pain to get at the bolts ......any tips ?
 
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