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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
Just bought a 2007 T5 2.5tdi and went to have it serviced at my local garage. Engine management light has come on and stayed on and they say it sounds noisy(rattly) and rough. Suggested it could be major problems. Do these 5 cylinder diesels sound a bit clattery? Not a lot of oil in it but serviced 18 months ago (6000 miles). It has done 65k miles in total. Do I need to be concerned - I'm new to the camper game. Any help or suggestions - don't want it dying on me on the way to the south of France!
 

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hi, i found my 07 2.5 to be quite noisy in comparison to the t4.

mine had 35k on it and full history.

my local specialist said it sounded right but they do sound quite rattly. its the gear driven cam i believe not a cam belt! but im no mechanic.

any how i had no problem with mine in 10k miles so seems good to me!!!!!

go to a vw specialist if you have any worries.!!!!T:
 

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Hi
Just bought a 2007 T5 2.5tdi and went to have it serviced at my local garage. Engine management light has come on and stayed on and they say it sounds noisy(rattly) and rough. Suggested it could be major problems. Do these 5 cylinder diesels sound a bit clattery? Not a lot of oil in it but serviced 18 months ago (6000 miles). It has done 65k miles in total. Do I need to be concerned - I'm new to the camper game. Any help or suggestions - don't want it dying on me on the way to the south of France!
They sound a bit noisier, the oil level and correct type is pretty important, so keep an eye on the fluid levels and see how much oil you use, if they have suggested major problems then as mechanics they should have been able to tell you what was causing the noise?

If the noise remains the same when you depress the clutch then that should eliminate DMF issues.

I had similar concerns to you when I bought my 174 but after a trip to Horton recently (Where there were quite a few t5's) mine sounded pretty much the same as other 2.5's.
 

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I thought mine was noisy on tick over, it was very lumpy and the exhaust stank, nw the DMF has been changed she runs smooth on tickover, keep checking the oil level and if you can try and read what the engine management is seeing through the OBD2 port there are cheap readers on eBay, you should be able to see oil pressure.

Mine has done 114k with history now sound sweet, only the cracked exhaust manifold is doing m head in.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone. the guy I bought it off lives opposite it me and it has always sounded the same. He said his T4 was quieter. Off to VW dealer tomorrow to see what they have to say. Difficult one as I know my neighbour well and he is gutted and can't believe it but have been using my local garage for cars for 30 plus years. Hopefully have a better idea tomorrow - i'll keep you all posted!
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi all
Thanks for your responses - and you all made me feel a bit better reading your comments! VW garage say it is G450 fault as many of you post on here. £32.50 half hour investigation, £81 to fix sensor and a further £32.50 (all plus VAT) to upgrade software. Total of £146 + VAT. Booked in for Thursday - is this normal fees?:eek:
 

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As you said your engine management light came on and have had fault codes read confirming G450 sensor this is exhaust gas pressure sensor a very common fault less than £40 to buy and fit it yourself very easy

pics of sensor



If engine warning light does not go out after a few trips then it will need resetting (cheap ebay scan tools will do this for £25)

All in £65 fixed
 

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...ah yes, an easy fit but you'll need to use VAG-COM to adapt the new pressure sensor to the ECU followed by a forced regeneration on the DPF as it may have been running on time/distance rather than pressure difference to detect when to do a DPF regen.

VAG-COM-->Login 11 --->30605 - should adapt the G450 I read somewhere

VAG-COM-->Login 11 -> 21295 - should force a DPF regen.

See:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration

They also give you meas. blocks so you can drive along with the laptop on the passenger seat and look at the thermonuclear temperatures in the DPF as it regenerates!

Hope this helps...
mickle
 

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...ah yes, an easy fit but you'll need to use VAG-COM to adapt the new pressure sensor to the ECU followed by a forced regeneration on the DPF as it may have been running on time/distance rather than pressure difference to detect when to do a DPF regen.

VAG-COM-->Login 11 --->30605 - should adapt the G450 I read somewhere

VAG-COM-->Login 11 -> 21295 - should force a DPF regen.

See:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration

They also give you meas. blocks so you can drive along with the laptop on the passenger seat and look at the thermonuclear temperatures in the DPF as it regenerates!

Hope this helps...
mickle
As i replaced my G450 sensor then carried out a forced regen all is well but should i have done an adaption in between or is just carring out the regen good enough as i have read elsewhere
 

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It's a bit of a tricky one... I was told when I bought mine to do an adaption & then a regen. I think as the ECU stores the ash value & the duty cycle since the last regen, you have to give the system a sort of baseline value. When I did the adaption, I monitored the values in meas.blocks 008, 011 & 068 but they didn't change. The values in 068 change when you do a regen as the duty cycle should drop to zero. My dealer machanic also told me the ash value for the T5 DPF should have a max value of around 120grams and you can see that on meas block 068 - I think its the third or fourth value.

He also said the ash calculation is based on roughly 1gram per 1000miles and after 120K block 068 should be monitored to check the ash mass. Mine was at 103gms (I have 168Kmiles on mine). I also discovered where you can write down the ash value but I think that might be a ticking time-bomb as if the pressure across the DPF gets too high, the G450 sensor will fail.

What isn't clear is if the G450 sensor is calibrated - I mean for the same differential pressure ALL the G450 sensors produce the same readings. That would probably make them very expensive to produce so it's probably cheaper to let the ECU match the ash value to the reading from the G450 when you fit it.

Sorry if this is aa bit long-winded....

mickle
 

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All, these engines are very similar to those TD5 engines run on the landrovers !

which is very handy for me with 26 years of experience.

You are all right they do run rattly to a degree and yes the top end are always noisey.

As for excessive noisey rattles, make sure if you do nothing else to ensure A/ your engine is to the FULL mark with oil and B/ you carry a litre of oil in the engine bay - check every thousand miles ! that way you will catch any leaks or problems early.
I know its a pain but such is life for a reliable motor.

Top ends can be shimmed up but will still rattle when cold.
MIlage wise they should be good for several hundreds of thousands of miles if looked after.
use only a good grade long life oil specifically recommended for the engine i use the 5-30 fully synth VW long llife if it helps on the 2.5 engine.

OK as for noise from knackered exhaust manifolds, if local to doncaster i can get your manifold done for £300 using the same manifold! If you get chance to remove it take off those crappy press steel heat shields and damp insualtion they will give you more grief than you can imagine as the heat build up isnt stable on shorter journeys.

As for tubular manifolds such as PPI great idea look like an item made for a tractor but hey if it works and you have £400 to blow then so be it.
Mine went last month so i ripped it off and got it sorted properly using the origonal manifold, i had the welds built up and cross laid to prevent future cracking.

While your at it i can get the EGR system bypassed and ripped off completely! You dont need it in any way.
This will give you better room for heat loss more power less noise no hassle and lots more boost = more power in general.

OK quick tip - EGR valves - they too are a load of bo*locks take it off and set too ripping it to pieces if you have an hacksaw better still !!!!
What to do - get an EGR blanking plate if not make one out of 1/8 metal plate shape not important but will need two 6mm holes in it for bolting it back on size wise 2" square will start you off.
right unbolt the EGR pipe to the back of the EGR valve and either slide in the blanking plate or remove the pipe altogether if removing the entire EGR heater matrix when doing the manifold.

Put EGR in a vice and knock out the buterfly valve completely - do this by first remvoing the round valve bit inside the tube leaving the vertical mounting bar (this is only spot welded on with little pins a good whack will soo remove it!

Tap out the shaft it fitted to which will leave you a hold on either side of the alloy tube - tap out M10 and fit short bolts of any kind to block the holes up.

Next rip off the diaphgram on the side by prying the alloy cover off once off bin it!
rip out the diaphgram and tap hole M8 fit bolt to block up hole.
next saw out as much of the casting in the centre of the tubing the more you get out the better the flow.
you can remove the whole of it - just make sure you dont cut through the sides when doing it.

clean out with petrol to remove any swarf and carbon - refit and enjoy the fact you have just saved £74 on allards prices but also increased power reduced your emissions and gain fuel economy if you can keep your right foot of the gas for long enough!

I also know of a local garage who will happily do you a bespoke custom fit exhaust system in Doncaster at the right money! guaranteed for life!

De catted free flowed and tail pipes to suit.

If you want more mods to gain power and save fuel just ask i will do my best to give you the answers.

Hope this helps and gives you all projects to think about.

Ok as for engine managment lights normally there trivia but a must to get checked out.

Try and stay away from main dealers unless forced or havent got a clue at all.

Find out what has failed and scource one your self there easy enough to find and even Lambda sensors arnt hard to change once you know how too.

Think on moneys tight or at least for most of us so have a go ask the question and lets see if we can all help out.

Enquire and get to know you local garages make a friend of an MOT guy and stick with them, it can save you a lot of problems in the long run.

If you havent got a basic tool kit look at getting one, you dont need SNAPON just a basic set of spanners, pliers a hammer screwdrivers etc and a box to keep em in.

You will be surprised what you can do with a little effort and dont forget once you know you will always be able to do it yourself saving more money in the future.

I am not perfect by any means but will help anyone who needs it - i am disabled 70% but spent all my life customising, tuning and modifying vehicles winning trophies galore, qualified in all forms of engineering and vehicle techy.

07764 683388 i may not always be able to help but if i can......give me a bell hopefully i can guide you through the pitfalls of vehicles.

All the best Chris :)
 
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