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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I have just nursed my van to and back from Belgium (I was 50miles from Dover when my engine management light came on - figured it was the same fault due to the symptoms therefore carried on)
So, the fault I previously had was to do with the needle lift sensor, after removing the injectors, they were professionally cleaned & pressure tested, refitted them and whilst at it renewed the air & fuel filters, injector return pipes and 4 of the 5 glow plugs - one had been fitted cross-threaded, so decided to just leave that one. Anyway all seemed fine for the first 300 miles, then the intermittent judder started, I managed to control the drive by finding a speed the van was comfortable with, not ideal and a bit nerve-racking but made it nonetheless.
The van has PP1 injectors and has had a remap when they were fitted, can I get the 'electric' injector repaired or does it need replaced? Would this then need remapped again? I'm not really sure how it all works tbh.

Thanks for any advice/recommendations
Yvonne
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok so I now have the fault codes - what should I do from here?

17654 - Needle Lift Sensor (G80)
P1246 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17655 - Needle Lift Sensor (G80)
P1247 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 35-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

Any help or advice very much appreciated
Thanks Yvonne
 

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Yvonne,

Attached to the front of the block near the bottom you will find a plug block bracket, these 3 plugs are the connection points for the crank speed sensor, needle lift & glowies. With the ignition off remove the plugs & spray with contact cleaner (not WD40); this is especially important if the engine undershield is missing or if the engine has been steam / pressure cleaned at some point.

Clear the codes & see how it goes :ILU:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's been a while but I have managed to find the time, motivation and half decent weather to have another look at 'Charley'.

Thanks hobbyhorse for your suggestion of cleaning out the connector blocks, unfortunately it hasn't made a difference.

Rake, what do suggest now? I ran up the van and from cold it idles pretty steadily at 800rpm, with a little smoke (I'm not really sure on colour - I would say grey if anything), then if I give a slow steady pressure on the throttle the revs will fluctuate (cannot seem to hold it still) and an awful lot more smoke.

Thanks for any further help
 

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It's been a while but I have managed to find the time, motivation and half decent weather to have another look at 'Charley'.

Thanks hobbyhorse for your suggestion of cleaning out the connector blocks, unfortunately it hasn't made a difference.

Rake, what do suggest now? I ran up the van and from cold it idles pretty steadily at 800rpm, with a little smoke (I'm not really sure on colour - I would say grey if anything), then if I give a slow steady pressure on the throttle the revs will fluctuate (cannot seem to hold it still) and an awful lot more smoke.

Thanks for any further help
OK to test the injector warm it up to working temp, disconnect it from the connector block under the pump and measure the resistance across the injector. It should be between 90-120 ohms at full temp.

Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Ron, I've checked the resistance and it seems spot on 109.7Ohms. I had checked this at spade connectors near the injector end. After checking it first cold then reconnecting to run up to temperature, the idle seemed a lot smoother (still a bit smoky, but nowhere near what it was like previously). So when I've looked closer to the connections - the connector plug ends have exposed wires!

Firstly can you replace the wire from the 'unofficial' spade connectors to the moulded plug connection?

Secondly, I feel really stupid for putting off looking at this for 3 months for the fear of a potential big expense, when it just seems to be faulty wiring!

Thanks again for any advise given
 

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where are the exposed wires ? can you get a pic ? The connector can be spliced out and replaced yes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So have disconnected the injector wiring to the connector block (see picture)

No1 - the wire has already been spliced and has wear down to bare wire on one side.

No2 - this is just outer sheath damage from pulling the wires down from the top.

No3 - this is the initial failing of the spade connections that were under too much strain.
 

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So have disconnected the injector wiring to the connector block (see picture)

No1 - the wire has already been spliced and has wear down to bare wire on one side.

No2 - this is just outer sheath damage from pulling the wires down from the top.

No3 - this is the initial failing of the spade connections that were under too much strain.
the technical term - fooked.

Measure the resistant acroess the injector where the wires come out of the injector with the tatty loom disconnected.

90-120 ohms means its good and you can make up a new loom for it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the technical term - fooked.

Measure the resistant acroess the injector where the wires come out of the injector with the tatty loom disconnected.

90-120 ohms means its good and you can make up a new loom for it
LOL: yep that's what I thought, been 'bodged' a few times too many!

So I checked the resistance at the injector ends and it's 109.7 Ohms, so I'm going to get a new loom made up, something so simple, but yet caused so many problems & stresses.

Thanks for all your advice Ron T:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE - A friend of mine works at a place able to manufacture a replacement loom, the van passed it's MOT yesterday with a few advisories. T:
 
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