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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Volks.

I have a 2001 LT 35 Doka with 3-way dump, powered by an 80kW 2.5l TDi. I imported this vehicle from Germany into Canada in 2016. In the past couple of years I've had a few issues (Oil cooler seals, going into limp mode) and routine maintenance (brakes, tie-rods...).

Back in June, while driving unladen, smoke and the smell of burnt oil started rising out of the hood and white smoke poured out of the exhaust when under load. After some diagnosis, it turned out to the PCV valved failed ... resulting in a rupture of the rocker gasket and blowing a lot of oil into the air intake and through the turbo.

After chasing down the parts - neither an easy or quick task from Canada ;-) - my mechanic replaced the PCV valve (and O-ring), along with a new rocker gasket ... in mid-August. That appeared to solve the oil leak (at idle). When the mechanic took the truck out for a test drive, it stalled 200m from the garage and would not restart.

At that point, I opted to do some of the chasing myself to avoid running-up a sizeable tab with the mechanic.

The engine cranks freely, but does not catch. Pulled the fuel line off #1 injected and had fuel - though perhaps not enough. Pulled the lines off the filter and fuel flow seemed a little restricted. Went to drain filter and got nothing, so replaced filter.

Engine still will not start. However, if I spray either into the intake manifold, the engine will start, burn-off the either, then die.

I went over the wiring harness, cleaned connection, grounds (earth), and ensured all connections are tight.
When the key is turned to the "on" position, I hear the solenoid (cut-off) on the fuel pump click. I have yet to put a meter across the solenoid.

I'm now focussing on fuel delivery. I need to return with my vacuum and test flow a) between tank and filter and b) between filter and pump.

I am also looking for information / specs on the injection pump itself (074 130 115 B), so I can tell if I am seeing sufficient fuel at the injectors and I can test
 

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Discussion Starter #2
(continued)

I am also looking for information / specs on the injection pump itself (074 130 115 B), so I can tell if I am seeing sufficient fuel and pressure at the injectors.

If there is sufficient fuel flow and pressure, then I am hopeful the pump is fine. Lots of oil was blown back along the RHS (when facing) of the engine and onto the pump drive belt - what is the chance that belt has slipped a tooth and my no start is simply a timing matter?

I had planned to replace all belts - along with water pump and tensioners - so the timing will get reset when that happens. Before undertaking that work I would like to determine if the injection pump needs replaced {I actually prefer to rule-out the need for a replacement pump as they are a little pricey}.

I am relatively new to this engine, so wanted to appeal to those of you with more experience with the 2.5 TDi (ANJ/AVR) who can tell me the obvious things I may have missed and should check and how I can determine the health of my injector pump.
 

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The easiest, quickest and cheapest way to check fuel flow/pressure/pump and injectors in one test, is to take the injector out, remove and turn the fuel feed pipe, reconnect the injector to the feed pipe and give the engine a crank (see video).
I can post the specs later for checking the electrics on the pump and the needle lift sensor injector but the above test is the best place to start.
Did you have the error codes read previously when it was going into limp mode, or even since the non start problem?

https://vimeo.com/331211790
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank-you for the video, it was helpful.

I have not pulled an injector, but the volume of fuel I am seeing from the lead is comparable. I'll look at pulling #1 and see if my spray aligns with the video.

The truck has not gone into limp mode for a long time. In the course of hunting down the cause of that issue back in 2017, I cleaned/renewed grounds (earths) and connectors in the engine harness and have thus far not had the issue return. Then, as now, there were no fault codes to help point me in the right direction.

If you have the specs on that injector pump it would be appreciated. The pump seems similar (if not the same) to the pump which was on the 2.5 i5 Tdi found in the T4 Eurovan (Transporter) we had in Canada, back in the early-mid 90s ... my mechanic is going to see if he can obtain a copy of the shop manual for that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pulled and inverted #1 injector. There seems to be ample fuel. Also found no restriction between tank and filter or between filter and pump.

At this point, I'm leaning more towards a timing issue - I have a new belt set and planned on replacing both belts anyway. However, before heading into that task, I would like to confirm the pump is not misbehaving in any manner.

Though this injection pump was used on the 2.4D and 2.5TDi found in the 90's Eurovan (T4 Transporter) here in Canada, I am having no luck finding a service manual for the vehicle/engine or pump itself.
 

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There's not much in the way of service manuals for these, your best getting a copy of elsawin from the likes of ebay for all service and tech info, and if your serious about looking after the van a vcds diag setup.

Here's the pump test specs and the needle lift sender specs:

 

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Discussion Starter #7
TommyLT35:

Thank-you for posting that!

The pump checked-out electronically, so the next step is to move forward and replace the belts. The truck is now sitting at the mechanic's. I pulled the cowling off and opened the access panel - whoever set it in-place last was overly generous with acoustic sealant on the mating surface of the cover - in the dog house. I'm tempted to order the necessary tools and tackle the timing myself, but with my present work schedule, it would be much more convenient to hire it out.


I do have and older copy VagCom, but it covers everything I need. I'll look into ElsaWin. It would be nice to find an equivalent of a Bentley manual or an actual set of VW shop manuals for the LT mk2.
 

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Elsawin is the vw electronic workshop manual, it covers every repair procedure, test, spec for your vehicle. You need it to compare all the live data you will get from vag-com/VCDS to see what's good and what's not. VCDS also has a diesel pump timing live graph that shows if the timing is within spec, very handy as the timing does drift a bit over time. Having your own tools and doing jobs yourself is the only way you can be a 100% sure jobs are done right/to spec, plus having the timing tools you can check and adjust it whenever you need to.
Good luck with it and keep us posted how you get on.
 
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