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2004 1.9 84 BHP T5
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I'm new here and new to the T5. I need some advice please.
I've only had the 2004 T5 for two days and it's a pain to start when cold or if left for more than 5 ish hours but it starts just fine if you try and start it up with in five hours. This is nit only my first T5 but also my first diesel so not sure where to start looking.
What I can say is that when the key is turned you can here the fuel pump priming.
Thanks for helping me everyone
 

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Morning and welcome!

What's the mileage? I'd check the glow plugs and battery for starters. If you cycle the glow plugs (turn ignition on and off to allow them to warm a couple of times before starting) and see if that helps. You can also measure their electrical resistance if you've got a multi meter. Glow plugs will last about 100k miles ish depending on use.

Also check you battery voltage at rest. Should be around 12.5v or thereabouts. Leave it half an hour after running the engine to test.

Failing those could be the diesel injectors, but getting more complicated at that point....

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply.
The T5 has 140,000 miles on it. I'm questing I have to take the plastic cover off on top if the engine to get to the glow plugs?

A small update, the engine becomes hard to start in just under three hours after turning g it off not the five hours I said earlier.
I've just gone out to the van which had been sat for just three hours after a 40 mile drive, went to start it and it just cranked over and over. The second time I tried it started up. Now I've just found out that if I allow the engine to run for only a few seconds no more than 10 seconds, and turn it off and try to restart it all is good. Don't know if this extra bit of information helps or not?
 

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You don't have to remove the top cover, but need to unplug the connectors from the glow plugs - front of engine but very hard to see.

It still sounds like battery or plugs to me.

If you have any receipts / service history to show if the plugs have ever been changed it may help....

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Also, note that if any of the glow plugs have failed, you should already be getting diagnostic codes logged to tell you that. You shouldn't need to be dismantling things to find that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's for the help mate.
Just found out something new.
If you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump running and a lock of gurgling noise like air and water mixing which stops when the fuel pump stops priming. Now it takes three primes (three times of turning the key ) until the strange gurgling sound stops. Now if you Now turn the key once the strange sound has stopped the engine starts straight up. If you try to start the engine while the strange gurgling nosie is still happening the engine will crank for a long time till it finally starts
There is no smoke at all out of the exhaust when the engine starts. Could I have a lack of fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, note that if any of the glow plugs have failed, you should already be getting diagnostic codes logged to tell you that. You shouldn't need to be dismantling things to find that out.

I will buy a code reader and see what comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It runs just fine when it starts. You definitely have to cycle the key until the gurgling nosie has stops ( about three cycles) then it starts the second the key is turned. It's as if the fuel is leaking away from the engine.
 

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It runs just fine when it starts. You definitely have to cycle the key until the gurgling nosie has stops ( about three cycles) then it starts the second the key is turned. It's as if the fuel is leaking away from the engine.
Cylinder Head!
 

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Is there a quick way to check that?
Presumed codes read, signs:
140kmiles, will smoke soon, best/final remedy: remove injectors see injector bore damage- can’t be rebuild or too expensive to repair bores, replace head, rebuild injectors, etc.
When in that stage: just as well, replace piston rings, all shells, oil pump, water pump, rebuild/ replace vacuum pump, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cheers mate.
Well all i can say at the moment is that there is no smoke on start up at all or when you go WOT. As long as you prime/ cycle the key three times before starting the old girl will fire up the second the key is turn and the engine is nice and smooth when running at any rpm at any speed including at idle.
Fingers crossed its something nice and simple why the fuel is retuning back to the tank when turned off.
 

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Cheers mate.
Well all i can say at the moment is that there is no smoke on start up at all or when you go WOT. As long as you prime/ cycle the key three times before starting the old girl will fire up the second the key is turn and the engine is nice and smooth when running at any rpm at any speed including at idle.
Fingers crossed its something nice and simple why the fuel is retuning back to the tank when turned off.
I am sorry for the bad news:
Damaged injector bores/ injector seals allow loss of pressure causing many attempt at ignition. They will smoke and smell eventually and won’t start when you really want it to start! Properly pressurised fuel system and good compression are needed to start on demand. Most these engines end up the same after about the mileage you have, unless they’ve been really really looked after. Even that doesn’t stop injector bore damage/ wears which is an inherent design issue. Most garages just renew injector seals- not a solution really. A lot of forum members, like boxing match audience- throw all sorts of clever shouts on how to fight- none of them really work as a permanent 100000 mile-solution!
When you manage to see the injector bores, then make a decision as to replace/ repair.
I have done 3 so far. One at only 99000 miles. All needed new head and the rest! If you buy a reconditioned one, make sure it has a new head for the least.
Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
😞 thanks for the advice mate, not sure on what to do now. Just spent all my money buying it. 😭😭
 

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In my experience fuel does not gurgle unless there is also air in the fuel system. Thats a problem and you need to work out how/why and rectify. (Had that with a water cooled petrol T3 which was a terrible starter on its mechanical pump. Electric pump solved it!)
"Your post says if you cycle the ignition several times it starts. What that is effectively doing is priming/bleeding the fuel system. Your original thought of fuel drainback is still potentialy valid. (And a cheaper fix!) You should have a fuel filter ?with 4 pipes on top near the battery. Mine has a blue and a black plastic pipes from/back to the tank and two rubber pipes to and from the engine. I would start with checking the the top for leaking fuel, replacing the filter, and checking the O ring seals on the four pipe connectors on top of the filter.
Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Automotive exterior Pipe

I have read the full thread and can't seem to work out what engine, beyond diesel is fitted. Can you enlighten us? WHAT ENGINE?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The engine is a 1.9 TDI 84 bhp model in a 2004 T5. That is all I an tell you at this moment in time. I will have a look on Google and see if I can find a photo of my engine and post it up.
Yes I have the fuel filter with the four pipes on it, one blue and three black. I think the blue one was a rigid pipe and the three black ones are flexible.
 

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start with the easy stuff - new glow plugs and undoubtedly you'll need a new 'bridge', which is the diesel equivalent of HT leads going to the glow plugs. Mine literally fell apart on my 2004 1.9, and it didn't show any fault codes.?!?

Be worth checking the torsion value (aka diesel timing) as this can have a huge effect on hard starting.

Mine also starts better after a few pump prime cycles, which could indicate worn injector seals - but the head doesn't always show injector bore wear. At 100k the injectors will be past there best and need testing and new nozzles. United diesel or diesel bob can do this for £35 /injector to test.

Bad injector bore wear indeed means a new head ~£1000 for an AMC from darkside, but cheaper ebay 'options' available
 
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