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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Well i have spent the last few months working away (mainly waiting for things to be made by other people) on an AGU swap and it is going well. I have taken a different route to most with engine mount and a couple of other bits, using the original loom with a de immobilised ECU, front mount IC cut into the bumper but in black to keep it a bit more subtle and original radiator.

Made a pod in the dahs for some VDO dials for boost and revs in same style as dash with 7"screen. also had heater controls made in white so all can be LED lit in white.

in NZ you have to get a vehicle with mods like this 'complied' which involves a bearded man who hates modified cars going over it with a fine tooth comb nit picking holes in what you have done so trying to the most factory look i can so i can re register it, then maybe change bits from there. Luckily the local guy seems really decent so fingers crossed ill be OK. I did worry it only holds the block to the gear box with 4 bolts and thought i had got something wrong at first, hopefully he wont be worried about this.

A few questions i have for people who run these, the gaps between the TB/front cross member and the turbo ancillaries etc to the bulkhead is very small, has anyone done anything about this or is it ok? Any contact or knocks?

Did anyone else run a mechanical rev counter and if so, did you wire it through the ECU like the guides on MK2 Golf sites i have found or something else?

http://s264.photobucket.com/user/erinyes75/library/20VT conversion


Added a couple of pics for anyone whos interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cheers mate, if no one replies i will give him a shout! Hopefully i wont be left to feel unloved
 

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My throttle body just clears the front cross member but you're right, there ain't a lot of room there.

While you're in bits and for the sake of it I think it's worthwhile doing some small mods to it if possible. While you're there and all that. You can fit an idle screw to the throttle body (you'll probably not need it with a complete OEM set up) and cleanng that area up can only help with access to it and the TB generally. It is a pig to get to.

No rev counter on mine. I couldn't think of anywhere decent to put it without obscuring vision or just looking pants. We'll see.
 

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A few questions i have for people who run these, the gaps between the TB/front cross member and the turbo ancillaries etc to the bulkhead is very small, has anyone done anything about this or is it ok? Any contact or knocks?
i fitted a longnose front end to get over this problem :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
long nose?? smart !!!


Thanks for the input guys
is it actually a problem or is it just close? Im keeping to pretty much standard power for the mean time (unlike tonic!) i KNOW i will change my mind soon, im looking out for a spare gearbox so i can have a play with the final drive and maybe strengthen it a bit. Once thats done i will up the power im sure!

Interesting conversion so far, a lot of little things to think about, remembered today i have to make a plate to cover the flywheel where the van box doesnt quite cover it.
Over here you mainly get toyota hiace vans with V8's in them as a popular mod, people who have seen mine and get confused thinking its rear wheel drive etc.

Im borrowing a wiring diagram from local VW dealer this week so will hopefully have it running by next weekend fingers crossed.

Will let you know how i get on.

Cheers guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just wiring her up now!!! Few more days and I hope to be there!!

While we're talking about clearances, does anyone else have problems with the actuator touching the bulkhead? Mine is v close, but if the engine doesn't rock too much I hope it will be ok. Without replacing it with a different one I can't see how to modify it?
 

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What did you do differently with your engine mount? How did you do the sump?

Pm me if you need wiring diagrams. Looking forward to seeing the dash mods, sounds good.
 

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Just wiring her up now!!! Few more days and I hope to be there!!

While we're talking about clearances, does anyone else have problems with the actuator touching the bulkhead? Mine is v close, but if the engine doesn't rock too much I hope it will be ok. Without replacing it with a different one I can't see how to modify it?
Mine's clear and that's with a K04 turbo.

Turbo inlet pipe is really tight though. Not 100% happy with that side of it to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's interesting, I'm using k03 and actuator touches the soft manifold heat shielding? Must be mega with a k04! What gear box are you using?
 

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Actuator may be in a different place on the K04, i seem to remember the outlet being in a different position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
engine mount i went a different route, i made a plate to join the top of the AGU mount on the block plate (not the actual mount intself) to the underside of the original van mount. works really well, only worry is strength of original mount but i can change that if needs be. Dash is nothing too amazing just a bit different i guess, idea is with lights off you wont see anything but once on and back lit with screen on it will look funky. I really wanted the new 8" alpine touch screen but couldnt get it in with a hell of a lot of work so settled for 7".

I have wiring diagram for AGU from haynes manual only, trying to get one off a mate at VW dealer but hes not very interested i dont think, any other reference would be really helpful thanks, i will PM you :)

Noo noo, what gearbox are you running with that K04?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey all,
just wanted to share the joy!!

started for the first time today, gonna go for a run tomorrow and see how it goes. Fired up first time, idles and revs ok so hope it drives well too. had to work out radiator as it was touching the throttle cable but sorted now just run out of time so tomorrow morning it is. I opted for factory rad and cutting plastic fan backing in half and using 1 fan. any thoughts on this?

Now i have to run it :(

Sad times

Im not 100% but i assume this is the first conversion done outside of Europe? You certainly dont see many T4's here.

Just to make me feel better!
cheers!
 

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How's it going Bro T:

Been reading your thread and look forward to seeing the end result and some photos.

Hard to find the info down under isnt it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hey bro!

yeah mate, these europeans have no idea! haha!

Ive gone with the 'just get everything made' approach which has taken forever as people in NZ are not motivated by anything, they are happy to do things when they can. So you just leave it to them and it will happen lol

The main wait was the engine, engine guys had it for 3 months!!! We agreed to keep the price down they would do it inbetween other things however i still got a huge bill at the end of it.

Well i drove it today, didnt get far my boost solenoid is showing a fault so got to work that out, it starts to boost then cuts out. Should be a simply fix or replace on monday. When the engine gets above 50 degrees it gets very knocky and starts to stall but i think it might be to do with a pressure build up from this...well i hope.

Thanks to D9 for the diagrams, really helpful. you will be pleased to know from the 100 metre drive the clutch seems good and strong. 10 times lighter than the old one. Feels very different to drive, obviously faster but free-er acceleration and lighter if that makes sense?

Anyway, hopefully monday i can drive it to the end of the road, not just half way!
 

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hey bro!

yeah mate, these europeans have no idea! haha!

Ive gone with the 'just get everything made' approach which has taken forever as people in NZ are not motivated by anything, they are happy to do things when they can. So you just leave it to them and it will happen lol

The main wait was the engine, engine guys had it for 3 months!!! We agreed to keep the price down they would do it in between other things however i still got a huge bill at the end of it.

Well i drove it today, didnt get far my boost solenoid is showing a fault so got to work that out, it starts to boost then cuts out. Should be a simply fix or replace on monday. When the engine gets above 50 degrees it gets very knocky and starts to stall but i think it might be to do with a pressure build up from this...well i hope.

Thanks to D9 for the diagrams, really helpful. you will be pleased to know from the 100 metre drive the clutch seems good and strong. 10 times lighter than the old one. Feels very different to drive, obviously faster but free-er acceleration and lighter if that makes sense?

Anyway, hopefully monday i can drive it to the end of the road, not just half way!
:gl crossed it's a simple fix bud. My T4 is out of Rego and it had a small oil leak for a while, think I have cured it. It's the small problems that annoy us. Got any photos of your conversion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
update,

seems knock was boost related, few leaks and solenoid fixed and its gone.

Took it for first drive today, what a different feeling, not to mention the noise difference.

For those of you who have already done it, any advice on getting the temp and oil warning lights to work with van dash?

http://s264.photobucket.com/user/erinyes75/library/20VT conversion

album of a few pics so far and one of how it looked before swap.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
first longer drives over the last few days, few frustrating things.

I have a split in the sump which is leaking slowly but surely, right where the diff gets close to it so bought a new one and will modify it sans hole!

does anyone else notice a lot of turbo whistle when cruising at light boost? cant tell if its because the turbo is so close to BH or if i have a problem?

most frustrating thing is it takes a few seconds to find idle then settles, but when stopping or turning around it sometimes stalls. Cant find a boost leak, gonna go through the other motions with TB etc. just hope its a silly one.

http://s264.photobucket.com/user/erinyes75/library/

couple more pics, also one of the dash as its nearly done, just missing a strip across the middle. Clocks work well and behind tinted perspex they cant be seen when off.

cheers!
 

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Hi, to get the oil light to work you will need to use a pressure switch from a 1.9td. T: I also use a S3 inlet manifold this clears the front cross member.
 
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