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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just before going to newquay last week my mechanic told me i had a crack in the engine block and that this was the reason i had a slow coolant/oil leak, I decided to just drive and see if it would make it and it did.T: (although i did have to stop every hour to top it up a bit and stick at 70 any faster and it just drank any water I put in)

I think now its prob best to take the engine out and see about getting this crack welded, can this be done? and if so how hard a job is it to take out the engine? as I don't mind getting my hands dirty or do you need special tools ect... Any help would be great.T:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
oh ok, thought that might be the case, is there any alternative engine I could use instead of the 1.9td abl? like from a golf or passat? just so i know what engine to look for.
 

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oh ok, thought that might be the case, is there any alternative engine I could use instead of the 1.9td abl? like from a golf or passat? just so i know what engine to look for.

if if you cant be bothered with the wiring of the TDI conversion the AAZ motor out of a mk3 golf, mk4 passat and some Seat Ibiza,s is almost the same motor

that is what i have in mine van


for a last attempt you could try kalimex k-seal, it has work for a good few people i know
and is worth a go for under a tenner before you pull the motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i'm thinking about trying that k seal first as nothing to loose.

Is the aaz engine a direct replacement then or is there any complications?
 

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Mate i had a cracked engine block on my old mercedes vito and i was getting silly quotes from garages to sort it out (cast block) but a mate told me to go and get some "liquid Steal" from a car accessory shop.
I did and i applyed it to the engine block where the crack was and it worked 110% T: It goes off that hard that you cant even dent it with a hammer !!

It totally stopped the leak all together and i carryed on using the van for about another 8000 trouble free miles be for i sold it

Regards Si
 

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you sure its defo the block ??? maybe just needs a new head gasket ?

either way id try the sealer stuff for the price it has worked for me in the past

good luck either way mate
andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ive just had my van up on the ramps and my mechanic showed me the crack it is about (10-15cm long hairline) so i think i might aswell try the liquid steel/ chemical metal stuff over the crack and k-seal aswell to seal it from the inside. cheers for the help.

What was the make of that liquid steel stuff you used? as ive tried one called chemical metal in the past on something else and it wasn't very good.
 

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if the crack is hairline it maybe worth rubbing it with the sharp edge of a file to form a small "v" to allow the liquid steel to have someting to hold / bond too. I guess you need to ensure that you "work it in" as well as a light smear on the top probably won't work. Regards David
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The only problem i have is that its hard to get to, as it is at the back of the engine, when the van is up on ramps i can just about get my arm through the subframe to reach the crack but only just, when ive got my arm in there i cant really see what im doing so i'm gonna be working blind so its going to be a tricky one.

Thanks for the help though much appreciated.
 

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Hi mate, this is the stuff i used, I got the name wrong I: Its called "QUICK STEEL" and its made by a company called CarGo. Hopefully the link below will help you out.

http://www.vintagetractorspares.co.uk/vintage_tractor_accessories/quicksteel.html

Its amazing stuff !! you break off the amount you need then start kneeding it in your hand and the black inner part starts to mix with the grey outer part and starts to warm up. But instructions are included.
Just make sure the surface your applying it to is clean and dry !!

Hope that helps.

Regards Si

Ive just had my van up on the ramps and my mechanic showed me the crack it is about (10-15cm long hairline) so i think i might aswell try the liquid steel/ chemical metal stuff over the crack and k-seal aswell to seal it from the inside. cheers for the help.

What was the make of that liquid steel stuff you used? as ive tried one called chemical metal in the past on something else and it wasn't very good.
 

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I second this !! I cleaned up the area with a wire brush and a solvent cleaner to make sure the was no oil residue anywhere near the area.
if the crack is hairline it maybe worth rubbing it with the sharp edge of a file to form a small "v" to allow the liquid steel to have someting to hold / bond too. I guess you need to ensure that you "work it in" as well as a light smear on the top probably won't work. Regards David
 
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