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639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Well after getting my van off here and getting the bug H: i am now going to sort out my suspension.
I have fitted 18" rims running standard shocks n springs. I have just bought a set of uprated shorted shocks (off here) and looking into some springs (-60mm) for the rear.

First question:

What do i need to do to fit the front shocks ? do i have to completly undo the nuts on the torsion bar to fit these or is there a better quicker way ?

Second question:

As i am going for a full suspension change i thought it would be good to fit new disc's and pads all round. I have thought about drilled n groved front disc's BUT i HATE brake dust on my rims. I have been told drilled n groved disc's may produce more brake dust :( . So if i fit new standard disc's are there a good make of pads out there that will produce less brake dust to cover my alloys ?

Third question:

While i am changing over to new shocks all round and new rear springs (hopefully sinking her down about 60mm) should i replace anything else ? Bushes ? bump stops ? rear spring cups ? etc etc.
I do have a "Knock" sound coming from the front near side (i think) every time i add slight brake preasure while driving, no pulling to one side just the slight knock:confused: could this be a wheel bearing ? any thoughts ?

Reasons for my questions are based on me having a nice van and wanting to do the work myself (to learn if nothing else) to save on costs and to please me more T:

I have just got my new hopefully trusty manual and after a quick scan read through the suspension removal bit it says i have to compleatly undo the front torsion bar set up :( I really did not intend to do this so hopefully i can be shown a way to do this from you lot without haveing to undo the bar !!

So PLEASE shove me all your info as i would love to get this right first time.


38 Posts
Hi Si,

There is an easier way to do it, it's just not as safe! The reason for undoing the torsion-bar adjusters all the way down is to release the pre-load on it when the suspension is at full droop, (the shock limits droop so taking it off will release the spring tension which could hurt!):eek:
Good news is, you're lowering anyway so if you lower it first, this will take alot but maybe not all:eek: of the pre-load out already - the reason you need shortened shocksT:

When you come to undo the shocks, put a jack securely under the suspension (after putting both sides of van on axle stands etc etc) and 'just' take the weight of the suspension so the suspenion moves up a tiny bit, undo the two 19mm upper fixings and the 21mm lower one (you'll prob need a breaker bar for these!) and tap the lower bolt through just enough to release the shock, but don’t push it through the arm otherwise you’ll release the anti-roll bar and it may be under tension!
When you re-fit the new shock you'll prob have to jack the suspension up a little bit further to catch the threads on the upper fixings after first putting the lower bolt in finger tight, as your new shocks are shortened, be careful though! Once the threads are caught you can tighten the upper fixings and it’ll pull everything up into the correct position and the jack will no longer be needed.
The lower bolt should only be torqued up (150ftlb if I remember correctly) when the van is back on the ground to prevent the bush twisting. A set of drive-on halfords type ramps are good for this bit! To make the whole job alot easier, wire brush all threads clean and release-oil them in advance then re-assemble with copper slip so future work is easy peasy:)

With your brakes, I'm pretty sure that having drilled/grooved discs won't make any more dust, it's prob just that if youv'e got good brakes you'll be harder on them and make more dust?! Either way the only low dust pads that i've used are EBC greenstuff but not in a T4, If you can get them at all I think the yellowstuff are more suited to heavier vehicles but if you use them with standard discs they can warp with the extra heat if you're hard on them:( Cheaper to just do pads first tho and if discs don't warp....T:
I’m sure someone else will have have fitted something good to theirs and will reply soon!

You don't need to replace anything else when you do the suspension, unless of course it's knackered anyway! Just check everything while it's up on axle stands and replace if need be.
Everyone on 'ere also recommends getting a full geometry (camber/castor/tracking) check/adjustment done after lowering to preserve good handling and tyre wear though I havent yet and all is well so far?!
You also need to reset your rear brake load compensating valve to prevent rear wheel lock-up as your van now thinks it is heavier than it is and could retalliate when you least want it:eek::*

The knock you have could be loose brake caliper bolts, cheapo/badly fitting pads or the rear lower arm bushes though the latter would normally cause pulling also? check these when you have the wheels off too!

Good luck!

Tim T:

520 Posts
Mine's been lowered before I bought it and it doesn't look like the camber's been adjusted. Tyres are virtually bold on the insides now. Been quoted £40 for full camber and tracking which is much better than the £200 it's now going to be for new tyres and camber / tracking.
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