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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Got my ex-AA van (2003; 1 other owner) & keen to make a start.
It's got a double seat in the back on top of what looks like a super-solid floor (presume this is original AA?).
Also got some of the interior panels in the back fitted with a hard plastic (rather than ply).
I've had a poke about behind the plastic & there's traditional fluffy itchy insulation behind.

So here's my question folks...
Is it worth me stripping out the floor, panels & insulation & starting again or not?

I'm planning to fit an Austop roof & full RnR but want to keep the budget tight so will try & do some of the other jobs myself.
Really appreciate your views.

Cheers dears,
WW
 

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bin the itchy stuff keep the floor mines ex AA and floor mint and as there solid there good just covered mine in carpet.
no need to waste money changing floor.
 

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Been told you won't get a better fit of floor than the AA installed ones, so I'd just lift it, insulate, then whack it back in with carpet on it. I've an ex-AA too and if I end up doing the lining myself, am planning on using the existing side panels as templates for new ply ones, then cellotex/foil insulation behind them.
 

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Currently sorting out the inside of my 2003 ex AA too, trying to keep the cost as low as poss. So far i have removed the panels and put foil wrap insulation ( B&Q offer £9 ) then one layer of space blanket (focus diy , buy one £12 roll get 3 rolls free) sealed all the edges with alliminium tape (£5). Then put original panels back, have also insulated the roof with the foil wrap, then put original lining back up. Going to carpet all when funds allow. Have removed all the old ariels and wiring and have filled the holes apart from rear middle as fitted B-sting ariel (£14 halfords). Going to insulate the floor then put original AA flooring back down and cover with some vinyl. so far cost is about £80

Took the oppotunity to remove some off the mountains of old AA wiring whilst van stripped out, still some left as not brave enough to remove the solid state box under drivers seat as not sure if any of the wires are linked into the main loom.

ps found some of the panel screws a bitch to get out, small allen key gets most, or flat head screw driver and hammer to chop off the end and pop out. also found lots of swearing helped !!

hope this helps
 

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Ex AA flooring is by far the best i have seen in a T4,shame it has 4 oblong holes for the twin seat to fix through.these and be repaird though.It is made from plywood as usual but has a tough plastic/rubber coating ontop so it should be in good condition. If the floor is in good condition i would keep it and cover over it to a finish of your liking,i wouldnt bother insulating under it as heat will rise and not sink through the floor and wood has excellent insulating properties anyway especially of this thickness.

I would pull the insulation out and celotex it instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Guys, guys... am OVERWHELMED by your help & support. Thanks very much. Plenty to think over. Am gonna go over the van again with your comments in mind and make a plan. Will keep y'all posted.
;-)
 

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Kept mine. It washed up a treat, solid, Foil bubble wrap under it & made a couple of ply plugs to fit where the mid seat went. Flooring of choice over the top.
As for the walls. I used the original plastic on the passenger side, why buy what is already there, & used ply on the drivers side so I could screw things to it.
My build thread is well behind but the floor bit is there.
Doing it again I would use the compact foam matting under the floor (like camping mats only thicker) for added insulation & sound insulation.
 

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I binned my floor as its a bit of an overkill on the weight and thickness, I would have kept it had it been a bit lighter, the plastic side panels are excellent, way better than ply so I would definitely keep them, I just trimmed mine slightly and rounded some of the edges to look a bit nicer and then covered them in carpet, just remember to key the surface a bit to help the spray glue get a hold. Definitely lose the itchy glassfibre stuff and replace it with celotex or foil bubblewrap.
 

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If the floor is even fairly tidy, keep it.. Tough as old boots and will take all the fittings and screws you can throw at it to hold furniture in place. I lifted mine out and used it as a template for non-slip lino, then put underlay down and dropped it back in with the lino on top which made the job a goodun.

As a little tip, I also got a step cover which meant I had to trim some overhanging bits of ply off, out of which I cut some plugs to drop ino the seat holes. With the lino on top you would never have known. Best quality floor that money can buy, would be a shame to bin it.
 

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im at the same stage of insulating, carpeting my ex aa, was wondering about fixing the floor down, ive been told to sika flex it down to avoid putting screw holes in metalwork but that means i cant insulate under it. What's best... screw and insulate under it or sika flex and no insulation. Im not having cabinets in the back so dont need to fix anything to floor... any info would be ace J
 

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The only reason I want to fix it down is because its not fixed at all at the moment and lifts up and slams down when going over bumps, amazing build thread by the way mate very inspiring, If my van comes out any where near as nice as yours I will be a happy person
 

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Cheers Jdog, I guess you could try use some self tappers through the floor of the van, you should have no problems with rust as long as you clear out any swarf and seal over the screw ends under the van with a blob of sikaflex or similar, I would think you should get away with only four to six screws if you space them out correctly, A bit of the old thermal bubblewrap under the floor is well worthwhile and doesnt take up much extra space.:ILU:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Jdog, any chance of a quick look over your work once you've started? Am gonna have to learn some skills along the way. Happy to lend a hand for an evening :)
 

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method seem to be sikaflex some battons same thickness as insulation to the floor, fit insulation between battons, then screw floorboard to battons - thats what I'll be doing.
 
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