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Discussion Starter #1
I've started my TDi conversion at last and have begun with the wiring as I feared that the most so best to get that out of the way first.
I pulled the entire loom but chopped through where it goes behind the front seats and into the rear of the vehicle.

At this stage I would recommend reading through Penbrins wiring thread although he used a Golf loom which is slightly different and also have a good read of Bman84's excellent build thread. These boys did it right where as I have made life difficult for myself.
I started stripping the loom in my garage which doubles as a weights room. Unfortunately I moved the loom to one side so my wife could excercise in there and got the loom tangled in the process which meant I had to number some of the wires and cut them.

The engine loom remains intact along with the 109 ignition relay and 103 glow plug relay and 60amp fuse and also the connectors for clutch, brake and throttle pedals.

I am now in the process of reinstalling the ECU and engine loom into the Alhambra to be sure it all works as it should before I pull the engines from the T4 and the Alhambra.
This is where I now need some help. It looks to me as though I have what I need make it run. But I have removed the front part of the fuse box along with all of the multi plugs (the fuse panel is still in place to power the relays).
Will the ECU still do it's job of running the engine without these plugs present. And what is the bare minimum I need to get the engine to run.

I'm almost ready to try and start the engine. I just need to isolate all live wires that are not needed before I proceed but am wary of causing damage to the ECU so will hold off until I'm sure it's safe to turn the key!
 

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I'm not sure if I did it right but what I did has started my engine :)

Are the plugs the seat the same as your t4/gold as that's a massive bonus if they are.

Not sure abou fuse box I plugged loom in without loom and powered on to make sure nothing smoked before I connected the ecu
Confident :confused:

Good luck... I should be able to tell u how fast it is this week...l crazy busy at work this week which may not help.

Intercooler is a good fit under the crossmember with a small nudge of the bumper foam :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not sure if I did it right but what I did has started my engine :)

Are the plugs the seat the same as your t4/gold as that's a massive bonus if they are.

Not sure abou fuse box I plugged loom in without loom and powered on to make sure nothing smoked before I connected the ecu
Confident :confused:

Good luck... I should be able to tell u how fast it is this week...l crazy busy at work this week which may not help.

Intercooler is a good fit under the crossmember with a small nudge of the bumper foam :cool:
If you mean the F, F1 and F2 connectors then no unfortunately not so I will need to do the same as you did and find a golf in the scrapyard. I did wonder if I could make it work with out them.

I will definitely leave the ECU off until after I've connected the battery just in case!

Keep us updated with yours mate. Looking forward to hearing how good it is to drive!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can anyone tell me exactly which wires from the AFN loom go into the T4 fuse box?
I've put the engine loom back into the Alhambra along with the Relays and fuses just to make sure it still works.
I have 12v at the fuse box but nothing happens when I turn the ignition on.
I'm guessing now I've removed the bits I don't need I will have to source the F, G1 & G2 multiplugs and wire them up and plug into the T4 fuse box before the loom will function again?

Where can I find a comprehensive wiring diagram for the Alhambra, golf and T4?
I've not had any luck online and really need to know how to wire up the multi plugs!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I'm gradually figuring the wiring out.
I think I've managed to work out which wires go into the F, G1 & G2 plugs although the Seat wiring seems to have different colour coding than the VW Golf so I'm sure there'll be more to sort out later.

One thing that really concerns me though is when the loom was a tangled mess I cut through an immobiliser wire. It's the first one in the multiplug I think and also the thickest. Does any one know where it should go? There are what seems to be the same gauge wire going into the front doors.
Could it be for the flashing lights in the doors?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I may have the cut immobiliser wire figured out.
I have 8 wires.
2 Ground, 1 starter, 1 OBD port, 1 12v, 1 to ecu, 1 to instrument cluster and I think the cut wire is a second 12v feed either from ignition or Battery!

Fingers crossed.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Engines is out of the Alhambra. PITA in the rain but it's out.
I'm wondering if I can make the AFN turbo work with the ABL manifold.
I hope so because that'll be easier and quicker for me than fabricating a new down pipe.

My new multiplugs for the fuse box arrived today as well so I can continue with the loom!
 

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Cheers Retro, I'm thinking of doing something similar too. As far as I am aware you can use the ABL turbo and minifold for best results. T:
 

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Sorry, that's wrong. got confused with the AHU. As far as I am aware it's a new downpipe. Would be interesting if someone could knock up a few of them to sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers Retro, I'm thinking of doing something similar too. As far as I am aware you can use the ABL turbo and minifold for best results. T:
That would be the easier option but the AFN's turbo is much better than the ABL's one apparently giving a better throttle response although I don't know if gives more power.

I read this guide by Penbrin yesterday. http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=80466&page=2
 

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I don't think the AFN ECU/N75 can control a wastegate turbo without some mapping. All a bit beyond me, I'd be tempted to fit the ABL mani+turbo and an AHU ECU and get it mapped for the larger injectors and to up the boost to suit. The AHU has a wastegate turbo so the ECU is all prepared. I know the VNT is a more powerful turbo etc but getting the downpipe made up is beyond me. :* Then again it's probably cheaper than buying a new ECU and getting it mapped. :*
I'm a great help aren't I I:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't think the AFN ECU/N75 can control a wastegate turbo without some mapping. All a bit beyond me, I'd be tempted to fit the ABL mani+turbo and an AHU ECU and get it mapped for the larger injectors and to up the boost to suit. The AHU has a wastegate turbo so the ECU is all prepared. I know the VNT is a more powerful turbo etc but getting the downpipe made up is beyond me. :* Then again it's probably cheaper than buying a new ECU and getting it mapped. :*
I'm a great help aren't I I:
You are a help actually. Two heads are better than one and the info you have given me is very helpful.
I've been looking into it a bit more today and making a new down pipe is beginning to look like the best way forward.
I can make one myself. I just don't want to. But once I've mocked one up a may be able to get one of the fabricator boys at work make a few up for me to sell on to forum members.

We'll see!!
 

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You are a help actually. Two heads are better than one and the info you have given me is very helpful.
I've been looking into it a bit more today and making a new down pipe is beginning to look like the best way forward.
I can make one myself. I just don't want to. But once I've mocked one up a may be able to get one of the fabricator boys at work make a few up for me to sell on to forum members.

We'll see!!
Top idea that, I'm sure loads of people would prefer to fit the 110bhp than the 90 and it's only that putting them off.
T:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok. Engine is now mounted onto the engine stand and has been degreased.

I thought I'd crack on with clocking the Turbo so after a good soaking in WD40 yesterday I left it overnight and removed it today. Took it steady and no snapped bolts.
I managed to get it all separated using a combination of WD40, some heat from a hot air gun (didn't think that would work but fortunately for me it did) and a few careful taps with a hammer an drift.

Now I've got the engine sitting on the stand at about the same angle it would be in the van and have compared the oil feed and drain with the ABL and they look to be in about the same place.
I'm thinking there's no need to clock it!
When in the Alhambra the engine leaned back in about the 11 o'clock position with oil drain at 5 o'clock and in the T4 it will lean forward at about 1 o'clock and oil drain at about 7 o'clock if that makes sense (viewed from the Cambelt side).
I think it maybe within parameters if that's the correct term.
Can anyone chime in and advise? Remembering that the engine came from an Alhambra and not a passat in case there's a difference!

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you manage to sort wiring? I managed to get my Auto data working which has wiring I could PDF what I can if any help.
Yes please that would be a great help.

I'm nearly there with the wiring. I have the multiplugs and shrinking tubes now and I know where most of the wires should go although some wires are colour coded differently to the Golf which doesn't help.
I may start soldering tonight if I'm not too tired.

Those PDF files will be very welcome indeed.

Thanks.
 
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