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Discussion Starter #1
So the auxillary pullys on my Van have had a significant amount of wobble in them since I bought the van. Which was not only disconcerting it also meant that the power steering belt had to be left quite loose to avoid snapping it.

Previously I had changed the ribbed and v belt pully for a new pattern item and this had not sorted the issue.

So today I have finally sorted the problem, the actual problem is either on the face of the nose of the crank or on the lower timing belt pully itself. Or probably both.

Contrary to what I have read in various threads, pinning the sprocket is not going to solve anything.

Follow this guide at your own risk.

Stuff required
So first you need to strip your timing off the van. It's probably worth getting a new cam belt kit aswell.

Once you have got the lower sprocket off . Clean up the end of the crank nose and colour it in with a marker

(I have the seal holder removed as the seal was weeping , you don't need to do this for the repair)
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Then your going to need to assemble your tool with the correct thread adapter like so

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Then screw it into the crank, use the Nut on the back of the tool to adjust cutting pressure. You really do not need much.
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I had to give mine 2 full turns approx to completely clean the end up

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Following on from that , reassemble and time engine etc. I took the sump off in order to jam a some wood between crank and block in order to get the insane torque required in the manual on the crankshaft bolt

I also prior to retiming the engine , installed the auxillary belt pully and used a brake runout setup to measure the deflection of the edge of the pully while moving the crank back and forth slowly. Which in my case was a respectable 0.3mm

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Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It's is probably also worth noting that if you have to take a significant amount of material off the end of the crank nose, you might run into alighment/clearance issues. This didt happen to me. However if it did I would have got a laser cut shim steel washer to sit on end of crank nose to regain what I lost
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's engineering not spannering & it's been a long time since I've seen any done in this throw away world.
Well done mate.
Thanks mate, it's really is not too bad to achieve. The alternative is the pully probably falling off eventually and having to do an engine swap which the thought of fills me with dread
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also if anyone wants to rent or buy the tool off me drop me a message. I can't see it being a tool that I'm going to be using again. I'm in Worcestershire
 

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mmmm, torque for the crankshaft bolt is not 90 Nm + 90 degrees, but 160 Nm + 180 degrees (equalling somewhere in the region of 460 Nm):

Zentralschraube:
  • 460 Nm für Dieselmotoren vor 01/1995 sowie Benzinmotoren mit kurzer Zentralschraube (65 mm)
  • 160 Nm + 180 Grad (in beliebigen Stufen) für Dieselmotoren ab 01/1995 sowie Benzinmotoren mit langer Zentralschraube (110 mm)
 
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