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Hi folks, this is my first posting in here, yet another Yank from across the pond that's found their way onto the forums here. I am in the process of planning for a swap into a 1999-2003 T4 (Eurovan here in the states, I think a Caravelle(?) or multivan for you? The one with windows all around.) I've got my eye on two or three local vans and I'm just waiting to hear back from the owners and trying to negotiate to get a van.

In the meantime I'm also planning on a swap for the motor and gearbox as after 1997 we no longer had a manual gearbox and the only motor offered was the 2.8 VR6. While this motor definitely moves the van, I like shifting gears and I really like having a diesel. I know there are multiple offerings available for the rest of the world, but here in that vintage we are stuck with the 1.9 90hp ALH TDI. I know this motor well as it was in my 2000 Jetta that I pushed to 350k miles and at one point swapped from the 5 speed 02j to a 6 speed 02m gearbox from the UK. My idea is for a mild build on the motor with 150 or so bhp and 250-300 torque. My problem is all of the van gearboxes from that era are 5 speed, and geared quite low. The 2.5tdi came with a syncro transfer box and a 5 speed as well, but to find one of those gearboxes is quite like looking for the proverbial needle in a haystack, but the stack is the size of a football stadium. Quite unobtanium for us over here in the US, and when we find them they end up being $2-4k plus shipping and then all the associated parts are difficult to source as they have to all come from overseas or eBay.de. Shipping a 2.5tdi from the UK would be the easiest and logical option, however because of the EPA and California emissions folks here I wouldn't be able to register and drive it on road. Well, not easily or cheaply.

To match with the 1.9L TDI, I'd like to get one of the 02m gearboxes that mate to a 4 cylinder VAG motor and I'm going to have to play with the gear ratios a bit, but I've been researching quite a bit on the VWVortex website and I think I've been able to figure out the ratios I want to use coupled with the larger tires for the eurovan. My issue stems from the current Quattro boxes available to me here in the states are in the Audi TT cars or in a few of the VW cars such as GLI or R32, but the R32 boxes have bellhousings set up for a VR6 motor that won't fit a 4 cylinder. The euro diesel 4motion boxes are geared such that in the car I was going 70 right around 2000 rpms, which was fine for the smaller Jetta, but with the larger tires of the van 65-70 would put you closer to 1800rpms. While this is in the optimum torque range, I have concern that with a heavier, bigger, less aerodynamic van, and especially with the syncro hooked up this will require frequent downshifts on the motorways which will be annoying. I've got graphs of probably 5-6 different gearboxes with different tire sizes, comparing each other to both the 02j 5 speed and 6 speed I had in the jetta, and I should probably add what the 02b/g gearboxes look like as well to give something nice to match up to.

I think what I'm going to end up doing is to get a gearbox from an Audi TT 225 with a 1.8T motor and the quattro set up and as I'll have the box apart to put in a front LSD (I'm thinking Wavetrac over Peloquin/Quaiffe for offroad travel... I'd love to discuss more with anyone who has actual experience with them) I don't have a problem swapping in a diesel ring/pinion set. Unfortunately for the 02m this means two pinion gears that are matched to the ring gear as it's a three shaft gearbox, but such is life.

From what I can find, the transfer box that bolts to the gearbox is a 17/27 ratio, out to the propshaft, into the rear diff and gets converted back with a 27/17 ratio to keep the wheels at the same speeds. I think I want/need a viscous coupler, but I haven't found much info on them for the T4s. Also, I think in the UK the 2.5TDI transporters could come with a locking rear differential, if anyone has one or a lead for one let me know so I can pick it up. Also, is there somewhere I can find the correct length of the propshafts so that I can have some made up, or attempt to piece this together myself with euro parts?

We don't have much experience or models of the T4 here in the states which is why I'm coming here to chat, I'd love to hear some feedback about my plan and any advice is appreciated.

My parts list (a work in progress):

motor - can source locally - I know the mounting angles are different, I'm already working on an adapter plate for motor/gearbox in the van. See below.
T4 oil pan and oil pickup tube to fit the new motor angle.
Turbo Downpipe - Do you guys know of anyone that makes a syncro/quattro/4motion downpipe that would work with the transfer box and driveshaft in the way?
gearbox with adjusted FD and LSD - can source locally
transfer box - locally
propshaft -
viscous coupler -
rear differential plus carrier +/- Haldex controller (?) - Can I use one from a Tiguan or an R32 and pick this up stateside? I can't seem to find much info on actual ratios in the rear differentials.
rear subframe, swing arms/control arms, CV axles (I think you call them driveshafts?), hubs, brakes
Lots of wiring


Any help is greatly appreciated! Also, I've contacted SQS Racing in the Czech Republic because it looks like they are selling the two pinion and ring gear sets for 385 euros a used set, but if anyone else has a lead on some parts and prices in this ballpark I'd appreciate it.

I think the gearbox build and the motor/gearbox adapter plate that will allow me to clock the Jetta mounting position roughly 45-50* forward to fit the eurovan are my two sticky points at the moment. I've found drawings for an industrial ALH TDI, but can't seem to find proper gearbox measurements for the normal ALH motor as it's mounted in the Jetta/Golf/New Beetle. Having these drawings I could come up with something in CAD that would allow me to simply rotate the mounting position around the appropriate distance and build it on a 1/2"-5/8" spacer to be able to keep the 02m properly positioned for the transfer box output. I could take this to any machine shop and have them mill it out for me on the CNC machine, as well as come up with a flywheel spacer to fit the adapter plate. I've got a lead running on this as well stateside, but any help on this is appreciated as well. Drawings and measurements would suffice. The hard part is the dowel position related to crank centerline, if these are off even a few thousandths it'll cause premature wear of the input bushing/bearing, wobble, and clutch destruction. No bueno.

Thanks!

Ryan
 

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This is an interesting thread, I'll keep an eye on this one. Fitting a mk4 platform haldex system is something I've thought about a few times (I am in the process of converting my 1.8t van to syncro). You seem to have identified the major hurdles, although remember that you will need custom motor and trans mounts as well.

I planned to retrofit the system from a 1.8t TT, including a blue haldex controller, and the rear diff from the TT. Possibly using a mk4 golf (rabbit?) R32 transmission as the angle of the engine looks closer to the T4 angle, but obviously this was all in my head, I havent got as far as measuring anything..

You wont find an off-the-shelf downpipe for a ALH in a T4, but any decent exhaust shop can make you one (in the UK at least, I'm sure your guys are equally capable).

I would use a T4 propshaft, probably need to be modified to fit.

I would use the entire haldex back axle, so you get the advantages of a haldex system, rather than making a mix of syncro and haldex. (I use haldex here rather than quattro, to distinguish it from real quattro with a longitudinal transmission and torsen center diff). You may need to retrofit the ABS pump/controller from the haldex car to make that play nicely.

Rear swingarms are easy, they can stay the same, you just unbolt the stub axle from the ones on your T4 and slot in a driveshaft (CV axle).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
d-9, thanks for the thoughts.

I just picked up a new to me 2002 MV weekender a few days ago for a song because it was having some gearbox issues and not shifting from 1-2 when hot, but while cold it worked well with just a little harshness. Well, long story short, I swapped out the valve body hoping it would make a difference, which it didn't, so I will be going forward with this swap sooner rather than later. Some comments on your points:

It looks like the t4 01p gearbox bellhousing has extra bolt holes, I'm guessing for the 2.5 and 2.4 liter motors both petrol/diesel. THe issues I've come across using an R32 gearbox is that it will likely be set up only for the 3.2L vr6 motor and not have the dual bellhousing. From what I've read this is also definitely different than the 4 cylinder bellhousings. If the angle was better it might be an easier swap, but I think the motors on the TT are still rotated more towards the firewall/bulkhead which would make it 20-30* off most likely. Interesting thought though, and there's a full R32 setup for sale not too far from me that I may need to look at more closely. The only thing that might be a deal killer is the input shaft, but if you're using a flywheel/clutch setup for that particular gearbox it should fit up nicely.

Motor and gearbox mounts will have to be custom, I'm ready for that.

The adapter plate between the motor and gearbox is still something I'm trying to workout. I have some drawings for an industrial ALH block that show all but the lower three bolt holes and could theoretically machine something out of that and locate the lower mounting holes once they are bolted together. The bellhousing bolt pattern should be the same from the 1.8 to the 1.9 motors from what I understand. Once they changed to common rail diesel in 2007 or 8 they started using different blocks, I believe. The other issue will be spacing the flywheel out from the crank to take up the spacer depth and ensure the proper engagement of the input shaft on the flywheel. I've been reading about spacers on some of the other conversion forums and through google, but I'm not sure if that's the best, easiest way, or if that will put too much stress on the rear main oil/crank seal and cause it to wear prematurely. Input or thoughts here would be helpful.

Shame on the downpipe, but I can deal with that.

Any ideas on proper CV shaft length? I'm assuming the L side of the van (Driver in the US, pass in UK) will be the same length, so it's really just the R side that will need to be futzed with and fixed. Also, I'm assuming the transfer box/angle drive and the new output flange will take up the space that the trumpet currently uses? That would make things easier to not have to create an intermediate shaft and bearing holder like is currently used.

I wonder if the propshaft would be something I could ship, or if it would be too much trouble? I'm not sure how to source one otherwise. I know the Tiguan and the Touareg both came with 4motion in the US, as well as the Jetta/Golf/Passat, but I doubt those would be long enough to fit a Eurovan.

Speaking of the rear drive, does anyone know if the gear ratios of the angle drive and the rear diff are different between the petrol and diesel models? From what I can find on the Audis it's a 17/27 up front and a 27/17 in the rear. Any idea if a locker can be retrofitted into one of these? Also, can I use any of the Haldex rear diffs, or would it need to be from a certain vehicle? I know of some folks here in the states swapping Tiguan setup into their Jetta wagon to convert to 4motion, my only concern would be if it was rated to the weight of the van and also controlling it if it was a newer model. But it sounds like the Haldex rear setups have a kind of standalone controller that doesn't need input from the ECU, but from the ABS and the speed sensors (some with yaw and pitch) and they'll run. I'm not sure the difference between the blue/orange/other color Haldex controllers, I read some about them on one of the tuning sites that didn't help much so I'm still in the dark. Also not sure really of the difference between syncro and Haldex systems, I assumed they were the same. It looks like I'll need the viscous coupler though unless I want to run in 4wd all the time (which I don't.)



The dogs and the wifey love it at least. Even if we can only drive 4-5 miles at a time before the gearbox starts slipping :).

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does anyone know the length of the syncro axles for both front and rear? Some of the threads on here with 02m swaps have talked about using the T4 axle on the left (Driver side for me, near side for you) and then because of the syncro box/angle drive using the axle from an Audi S3 is pretty damn close and doable. I can't seem to find much info on the inner axle housing/flange diameter, but it looks like either a 100 or 108mm. Thanks.

Here are the other threads I've been reading. Let me know if there is more info out there for this elusive 02m swap. Thanks!

Vanhead's http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=371766
OoudeKaas's legend of a swap with a PD130 TDI and 02m http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=780001
 

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Well, this project took a slight turn, for the better. I ended up finding a 2004 Passat with the 2.0 BHW PD130 motor, one of the more powerful, non commonrail diesels here in the US from VAG. It's out of the Passat along with the engine harness back to the firewall. I have the whole car still in the driveway for more of the in-cabin wiring when I need it. Today I also picked up the DBQ code 02M 6 speed from an Audi TT, pedal cluster from the TT, shifter box and cables, plus the transfer box.

I still need to find info about the axle length for both the driver and passenger side. From what I found on a UK parts website, the near and offside axle shafts for the front are the same length for the manual/syncro boxes. Is this true?

I'm going to be starting on the wiring mess and ECU pinouts soon, anyone have the ECU pinouts for a 2002 eurovan/caravelle weekender GLS? I have the 203bhp VR6 and the 01P auto at the moment. Thanks!

-Ryan
 

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Well, this project took a slight turn, for the better. I ended up finding a 2004 Passat with the 2.0 BHW PD130 motor, one of the more powerful, non commonrail diesels here in the US from VAG. It's out of the Passat along with the engine harness back to the firewall. I have the whole car still in the driveway for more of the in-cabin wiring when I need it. Today I also picked up the DBQ code 02M 6 speed from an Audi TT, pedal cluster from the TT, shifter box and cables, plus the transfer box.

I still need to find info about the axle length for both the driver and passenger side. From what I found on a UK parts website, the near and offside axle shafts for the front are the same length for the manual/syncro boxes. Is this true?

I'm going to be starting on the wiring mess and ECU pinouts soon, anyone have the ECU pinouts for a 2002 eurovan/caravelle weekender GLS? I have the 204bhp VR6 and the 01P auto at the moment. Thanks!

-Ryan
 

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Just came across this thread again, forgot to reply above sorry.

Vanhead is using custom shafts built from a combo of T4 and A3 (golf/TT/etc) shafts. Personally not a huge fan of his setup as the driveshaft angle is pretty brutal, fairly sure it will lead to premature driveshaft wear. Your setup will need to be a little different to that one, because he isn't using the output flange on the transfer case so it is in completely the wrong place and at the wrong angle to mate up with the prop on the T4.

I looked at using an 02m for my syncro build, but decided against it - may yet change my mind. I was looking at mounting the engine like that PD130 and having a spacer machined up for the prop shaft, so it mates up with the 02m transfer case.

You should read up on the differences between syncro and haldex - in short the syncro is a fully mechanical system that uses a viscous coupling to drive the rear wheels when a certain amount of slip is occurs in the front. Haldex uses a set of electronically controlled clutch plates to engage the rear drive when the computer tells it to, based on inputs from the traction control and abs systems.

Driveshafts are the same between syncro and fwd T4s, there is a gearbox extension ('trumpet') that runs behind the engine which the right driveshaft bolts onto. There are various types of T4 driveshaft however, early ones are different iirc and the 102bhp, 150bhp TDIs (and Vr6?) use different shafts.

Your best source for wiring diagrams is the VAG elsawin site, where you can pay $5 and get access to wiring diagrams for all vag models for an hour, where you can print/save them for access later. Your best bet with wiring is to remove the T4 engine wiring loom from the fuseboard, then modify the TDI loom so it plugs in its place. At this point the pinout for the ECU plug is a lot less relevant, but you will find that on the elsawin site. Expect to spend a lot of time doing wiring, the loom for my 1.8t took me about 8-14 days.
 

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OK, so I've been doing a lot of research and CAD drawing over the past few months, trying to find out if I can get the 02m to work with the van and still keep the syncro transfer box pointed towards the rear. Unfortunately to make it work with the larger transfer box on the 02m quattro gearboxes I'd have to rotate the motor about 40* from vertical, towards the radiator. In comparison the normal mounting angle for the 4 cylinders is 27* and for the 5 cylinder and VR6 motors is 34*. My concern with doing this is that the oil cooler, fuel filter and alternator are going to hit the radiator, and now that I have the vr6 out of the van and have offered the TDI/02m combo up a few ways I'm worried that the turbo is going to hit the firewall at that angle. I'm still fiddling with it to try and make it work but I have some other ideas. Vanhead, if you're around, any pointers for getting the 02m at the right angle would be nice. The auto VR6 axles are also a different size, more on that below.

First option is just to get an 02m from a GTI/front wheel drive car without the transfer case, but then I'll still have to get some sort of trumpet/axle extension or a much longer offside axle (my passenger side, the right side of the van when sitting in it) which will likely introduce a bit of torque steer like in my old MK4 Jetta. I'm hoping to avoid this if possible. This solves the extra rotation, I'll be able to keep it at 27* like the stock motors, however I'll still have to make/have made an adapter plate and a flywheel spacer. Less than ideal, but if anyone is interested I have multiple drawings with dimensions that I can share of the adapter plates and angles.

Second idea is just to get a box from a T4, gearbox mounts will match up and should fit like a glove. I'm going to have to switch my axles for this (first idea too) because apparently the VR6 came with 112mm inner CV joints/gearbox flanges (who knew?) I thought the 108mm was the biggest there was. So to use what I've got I'm going to have to swap to manual axles anyways with the 108mm inner CV joints. I was able to find what I need here online, but I'm not sure if I want to spend money on this if I'm not going forward with this idea. The biggest problem with the T4 boxes for me is the super low gearing of all of the T4 manual boxes and the higher highway RPMs that they have. I'd like to be around 2000-2200 RPMs at 70-75 with highway speeds around here. I'm also concerned the higher torque numbers I'll have with the 2.0 PD motor will likely break the box, should be between 3-400 lb/ft of torque (500ish NM.) Frans from Dutch Auto Parts is working on an adapter for the 02g gearbox which holds higher torque, but I'd like to have something a little newer and not having to use a spacer for the flywheel would be something I'd like to avoid if possible. We are planning on taking some long road trips around the country, to Mexico and Canada in the van, so newer parts would give my us a little more peace of mind.

Third idea, and what I'm trying to go for now, is to get a box from a T5. I think for ease of install I'm just going to get a 2wd box until I can get things up and running, put the 4motion swap on hold for now. The T5 boxes have the same 4 cylinder bellhousing pattern and based on looking at the pictures the mounting angle is pretty damn close to the T4s, close enough that it should work. I've been told that the gearbox input shaft is larger than the 02m, but I haven't been able to confirm that. If anyone has or can take measurements for me of the shaft size and the spline count that would be helpful. The reason I'm wondering is I have an uprated 240mm clutch, pressure plate and flywheel for the 02m gearbox, and if I could use the setup for the 0a5 gearbox I'd like to so I don't have to buy more parts. I: I was told by the Darkside Development guys that I could just get a clutch disc with a larger input, but other options are appreciated. At least the two gearboxes use the same size clutch. The one I have is rated up to 395 lb/ft, so should be plenty stout for what I'm planning. Right now have the VNT17 turbo, will have FMIC and will also have likely a stage 2 chip. This coupled with the ESP/ASR/EDL ABS swap over from the Passat that I'm planning should keep things interesting. :DI::cheers:jiggy

There are two gearboxes offered for the 4 cylinder motors/TDIs, the 5-speed 02z and the 6-speed 0a5 gearboxes from the updated, facelift T5.1s. The 0a5 that comes with the newer facelift T5.1 140bhp and 180bhp motors will hold higher torque so that is likely what I'll be looking for. The gear ratios will match up better I think since they are built for a TDI, however the 6 speed is geared a little longer than I had hoped, but this makes it great for autobahn touring (not as great on US roadways.) This will mean that I'll likely have to either cruise in 5th or have some gear changes on the bigger hills. But it will lower RPMs and noise quite drastically compared to the T4 box. The two TDI codes I'm looking at are the KUP and PAP ratios. Based on the article here the ratios of the 140 and 180bhp motors are:

140bhp 180bhp
i Gang 1. / 2. / 3. - Gang 3,92 / 2,05 / 1,70 3,92 / 2,05 / 1,75
4. / 5./ 6. / R. - Gang 1,09 / 0,82 / 0,68 / 4,95 1,16 / 0,86 / 0,73 / 4,95

Also, interestingly the article states the motors are tilted forward at only 8*. Not sure what this will mean for mounting, or CV angles. If nothing else this may mean I only have to tip things forwards a few degrees, vs. 50+ degrees. I'll still have to adjust the oil pickup tube, but I have a T5 oil sump on the way from Europe that will fit much better than the BHW Passat one.

I've read plenty of threads about the stub shaft and offside axle issues, so I'm hoping that since the gearbox will come from a 5.1 it'll have the updated/longer stub shaft and deeper splines on the axle shaft. I'll make sure they stay greased regularly to help prevent the normal offside driveshaft issues with the T5 vans. The problem with these axles is the length on the T5 axles seems to be a little longer than the T4, so I'll likely have to take them to an axle shop to have them shortened appropriately. Another thought is to swap the inner CV joints of the T5 axles onto the T4 shafts. Any idea if the inner splines and star pieces inside the CV joint will be the same? Or better yet, since the outer joints are different between the T4 and T5, can I swap the T4 outers onto the T5 shaft so that I won't have the change my hubs and all that nonsense.

When the time comes and the bugs are worked out I'll look for a 4motion box and locking rear diff, but I think this has taken a back seat to getting the van on the road so we can camp and actually use it this spring/summer. I have a company here that can help me with a standalone Haldex controller when I do eventually complete the swap.

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Also, if anyone can verify the size of the 0a5 input shaft/spline count I would appreciate it. Cheers!
 

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If you have the funds, Mario is looking at building an adaptor plate for a T5 box on a T4:
"Evening all, we are about to start developing a adapter plate that will allow any 4 cylinder Passenger car transverse mount Vag group gearbox such as a 6 speed golf 4 unit or T5.1 or T6 gearbox mount correctly in a T4 with both 4,cyl and 5 speed engines, maybe even DSG, as the adapter will work on any 4 cyl gearbox.
I expect cost of each kit to be around £1400 including adapter, gearbox mounts and intermediate shaft mount, and I'm trying to gauge interest.
So who would consider this as a option to a true 6 speed T4 conversion.
You would have to source gearbox and T5 cable shift mech on top of our kit.
I am yet to address driveshaft adaption, but I am hoping we can retain stock shafts and CVs, at the worse AXG CVs."

https://www.facebook.com/mvengineering/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you have the funds, Mario is looking at building an adaptor plate for a T5 box on a T4:
"Evening all, we are about to start developing a adapter plate that will allow any 4 cylinder Passenger car transverse mount Vag group gearbox such as a 6 speed golf 4 unit or T5.1 or T6 gearbox mount correctly in a T4 with both 4,cyl and 5 speed engines, maybe even DSG, as the adapter will work on any 4 cyl gearbox.
I expect cost of each kit to be around £1400 including adapter, gearbox mounts and intermediate shaft mount, and I'm trying to gauge interest.
So who would consider this as a option to a true 6 speed T4 conversion.
You would have to source gearbox and T5 cable shift mech on top of our kit.
I am yet to address driveshaft adaption, but I am hoping we can retain stock shafts and CVs, at the worse AXG CVs."

https://www.facebook.com/mvengineering/
Now that's an interesting thought. Frans at Dutch Auto Parts is working on a similar adapter, I'm not sure why no one has made one yet. That pricing seems a bit high for me, I know there's a load of design and prototyping that goes into it but it seems a bit steep. Plus, if I can get an actual T5 6 speed box for that price, why worry with an adapter that's gonna need a flywheel or flexplate spacer, longer flywheel bolts, different motor mounts, etc? I've been going through that trying to use the 02m box here, and I'm not sure I want to bother with spacing the flywheel out 5/8-3/4".

The axles are another fun point of unknown for me as well. I'm hoping that with the axles from the 01p auto, the manual T4 axles I have as well as the T5 axles I'm going to get I'll be able to put something together. It will either be a complete frankenaxle, or I'm just going to have to have a local axle shop shorten, sleeve and reweld/rebalance them. We'll see once I have all the parts in my hands.

It looks like the splines are the same on the outer end of a T4/T5 axle, but the T4s use a nut that's threaded on, the T5s use a bolt that's threaded in. I'm assuming this means the hubs are different, but I've never seen a T5 hub so I don't know. Also unknown is the size and spline count of the actual axle/drive shaft that the CV joint fits onto. It would be nice if these were similar between the two to make swapping the necessary compatible CV joints onto the respective driveshaft that's being used much easier. But none of this has been easy so I'm not holding my breath.
 

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I'm going to jump onto this thread before I break the welder out and start making custom mounts for my 02M.

Did anything come of those adapters from either party? If so, I have no issues with getting stuck in and attempting to solve the drive shaft problem myself (I have a lot here to work with). As for the haldex retrofit, this is something I have thought about before. Annoyingly it will involve an ABS retrofit as well, (the prices for later T4 pumps are inane!) as for the angle sensors, I'm yet to look.into that; but I now have some more reading to do...
 

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Haldex communicates to ecu via canbus.. This is good info for me already on page 1! Now I know I would need to update from msa to edc ecu prior to installing Haldex

Inscribed with just two thumbs...
 

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Haldex communicates to ecu via canbus.. This is good info for me already on page 1! Now I know I would need to update from msa to edc ecu prior to installing Haldex

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The MSA to EDC swap is simple. If I can do it, anyone can!

Whether the later 2004 system can be made to fit is another thing to look into. None of this viscous coupling nonsense to go wrong...

http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/Docs/SSP/VWUSA.COM_SSP_333_4Motion_With_Haldex.pdf

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm going to jump onto this thread before I break the welder out and start making custom mounts for my 02M.

Did anything come of those adapters from either party? If so, I have no issues with getting stuck in and attempting to solve the drive shaft problem myself (I have a lot here to work with). As for the haldex retrofit, this is something I have thought about before. Annoyingly it will involve an ABS retrofit as well, (the prices for later T4 pumps are inane!) as for the angle sensors, I'm yet to look.into that; but I now have some more reading to do...
Haldex is the way I'm going. I played around for about a month with the 02m I have and I could just never get it to sit/fit the way I wanted it to. Sooooooo I messed up and went and bought a 6 speed/4motion gearbox from a T5 from England. And it just arrived yesterday :).

Anywho, here is a picture from the front, first offering up.




I like where it fits, problem is, it still needs to go backwards a few inches. Here's one from the right side.




The issue is the turbo. I'm using a 2.0 PD TDI from a Passat, I'm wondering if the longitudinal layout has the turbo sitting a little more closely to the front/right side of the engine and I can't get it to sit in the hump in the firewall. For those of you who have put a TDI into a T4, where does your turbo sit? Should I get a manifold from a golf/jetta? I need to shift the turbo closer to the gearbox to fit better. Is there an option out there that you guys know about? Here's a picture. As you can see, the transfer box output is in the middle, so I can't shift the lump any further to the left.



Definitely getting closer. I've also got a set of inner CV joints coming that I'll be able to use to figure out the axles. Hopefully someone can help me out here. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to jump onto this thread before I break the welder out and start making custom mounts for my 02M.

Did anything come of those adapters from either party? If so, I have no issues with getting stuck in and attempting to solve the drive shaft problem myself (I have a lot here to work with). As for the haldex retrofit, this is something I have thought about before. Annoyingly it will involve an ABS retrofit as well, (the prices for later T4 pumps are inane!) as for the angle sensors, I'm yet to look.into that; but I now have some more reading to do...
Haldex is the way I'm going. I played around for about a month with the 02m I have and I could just never get it to sit/fit the way I wanted it to. Sooooooo I messed up and went and bought a 6 speed/4motion gearbox from a T5 from England. And it just arrived yesterday :).

Anywho, here is a picture from the front, first offering up.




I like where it fits, problem is, it still needs to go backwards a few inches. Here's one from the right side.




The issue is the turbo. I'm using a 2.0 PD TDI from a Passat, I'm wondering if the longitudinal layout has the turbo sitting a little more closely to the front/right side of the engine and I can't get it to sit in the hump in the firewall. For those of you who have put a TDI into a T4, where does your turbo sit? Should I get a manifold from a golf/jetta? I need to shift the turbo closer to the gearbox to fit better. Is there an option out there that you guys know about? Here's a picture. As you can see, the transfer box output is in the middle, so I can't shift the lump any further to the left.



Definitely getting closer. I've also got a set of inner CV joints coming that I'll be able to use to figure out the axles. Hopefully someone can help me out here. Thanks!
 

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I have an afn engine, I use the pd130 manifold and my vnt17/22 just barely sits below the hump in my t4. I did have to bend the hump in a bit to make clearance. Also I have a slightly modified engine mount that has the hole drilled out a bit to allow me to shift the engine forward a bit. In a worse case I hear of guys in UK modifying the hump, or going with a custom log type manifold

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I can't run an alh in my t4 due to the tilt of the engine, all of the accessories would hit the radiator I'm told. I couldn't find any t4s running alh swaps

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