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Discussion Starter #1
is this true that camber adjustment on the front max`s out before you can get camber spot on on front wheels???

making it a diy job to simply undo 1 bolt on each side and slide to max point and retighten??


reason why:-


i am annoyed by a alloy wheel/tyre place by me in bristol

i noticed i had wear on inside egde of tyres

took to garage presuming camber is out

van is lowered

they said camber is fine tracking is out

they adjusted it and i swapped tyres from rear to back to get some fresh rubber on the front

i drove home and van now pulled to the left

went back they changed

then van pulled to the right

went back

van now drives straight.

ben like this for 2 months now

now today i noticed the rubber is bold as :* again on inside

these guys got payed now i need new tyres

anyway main reason im posting is camber in my opinion is def out

regardless of what some numpty guy using a computer trying to pick about 10 different settinmgs for a t4 on a 4 wheel laser alignment says

am i right that the camber adjustment on the t4 cant adjust enough to get the wheel to sit right anyway meaning i can adjust myself to the furthest point and then go to any garage and get tracking re aligned afterwards.

im not going to same garage and paying them £80 to do 2x cambers and a tracking when i obviously cant trust there work anyway.

there has got to be loads of people out here who have had camber adjusted.

come on guys give us yer feedbackT:
 

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Depends how low the front is, if the torsion bars are wound all the way down then there isn't enough adjustment, but if you've only gone 40-60mm they should be Ok but every van is different. Never had much joy from wheel alignment places either, despite the nice little print outs they give you. Sure some just point both wheels inward to get it going straight just to fob you off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
didn`t think this thread would be so popular:confused:


thanks for reply david
my front is lowered prob a little more than 60mm
this is why i presumed i should just max out my camber adjustment.

has nobody on here had there camber adjusted?

did they tell you it maxed out?

anybody pleaseI:
 

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Never had much joy from wheel alignment places either, despite the nice little print outs they give you.
Agree totally.

I used to work in a tyre depot, for my first job. Every vehicle we checked was 'out' as far as we were concerned, because we wanted to hit our targets set by the boss, so we'd get our bonus.
I've also been on the customer side. Never again. They managed to melt a hole in my CV boot trying to unsieze the adjustment. Which of course they denied when I returned to complain. Since then I've bought my own equipment and do it myself. Guess what? My tyres wear fine!

I've always said it doesn't matter how many points you measure from, or how many fancy lazers the equipments got, the result is only as good as the person operating it.

Rant over. LOL:

clintharshaw: There's no reason you can't get the Camber acceptably close enough yourself if you have some mechanical knowledge, with a builders spirit level and a bit of patients. Honest!
Make sure the surface you're working on is level (crutial). Place the spirit level verticaly on the wheel at 1/3rd or 2/3rds along (not 1/2 way) to avoid the buldge of the tyre where it contacts the ground.
As long as the spirit level bubble reads further away (outside) from the measured wheel and from the center of its vial you are in the negative camber area. If the bubble reads in the area from the center of the vial to closer (inside) to the measured wheel you're in the positive camber area.
The bubble needs to sit in the negative camber (outside) area roughly 2-3mm from its center in the vial. Of course all makes of spirit level may vary, but you wouldn't be far off.
After each adjustment the suspension needs to be settled again by moving the vehicle a short distance (10 Mtrs). Importantly make sure both wheels are set equal or the same amount. After you have adjusted and set the Camber the wheel alignment will almost certainly be out and need setting.

Disclaimer: The above is a well meaning guide only. You must satisfy yourself you are capable and competent of making any adjustments. I do not accept responsibility for your actions or any loss incurred.
 

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there was a guy on here made a tool for checking his camber, quite simple really with a few thin steel bars and a spirit level that attached up against the wheel ( when on the ground to check ) then take the wheel off to adjust.. and see how thing go, when i looked at his adjustments they did seem to be all but maxed out...
 

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Clint,

I went to a tyre place in Bristol and they did the camber for £70.

Said it was out all round but I have noticed the fronts are starting to wear again on the inside.

THey did say they experimented with a local taxi driver and found that beyond 50mm drop they couldn't get it spot on.

It did drive very straight right away though.

Dave
 

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anyone know the answer to clints question? id like to know tooT:
Yup, i can!!

I had my camber adjusted by a highly regarded suspension tuner when i lowered the front 50mm. Took it back again today when i dropped it another 20mm, they took one look at it and said "it's already on the limit of adjustment so either raise it back up or live with the tyre wear."
 

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Dropped my bus down by about 70mm and have been thinking about the affect on the camber. Should i just max out the adjustment like in the pic above???? Ta!
 

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This is all well and good guys but if (like me) you run alloys with the usual ET35 8J you have no hope of them clearing the arch on max adjustment (as mine is)unless you reduce your tyre load rating and go narrower or toe the top of the wheels inward to clear the arch.
 
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