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Hi

I am about to attach an R-rail onto my T5 SWB with a pop top so that I can use a Caravanstore 225 awning. I plan to attach with Sikaflex and propably 4 screws along the length of the flange. The idea of screwing into clean body work scares me and something I haven't done before.

There now follows a series of numpty questions

What body prep is necessary? As I will be drilling/screwing through paint and panel is there the need for any form of sealant to stop the 'damaged' area becoming a rust point?
Any advice on the type of screws (3/4inch self tap - need for stainless/galvanized?)
Any need for a washer between flange and bodywork or will this just make things worse as it raises flange off body work?

Thanks for any advice

Stuart
 

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Hi
I'm a newbie and not even got a van yet but I would mask the area with tape, give the surface a sand with wet n dry paper then secure with s/s self tapping screws at say 12" intervals. I would get self drilling screws and fit "dry" first of all, not fully tightening any screw. Remove and apply sealant, refix, tighten and remove tape!

Right or wrong anybody who has done this?

Tony
 

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Hi

I am about to attach an R-rail onto my T5 SWB with a pop top so that I can use a Caravanstore 225 awning. I plan to attach with Sikaflex and propably 4 screws along the length of the flange. The idea of screwing into clean body work scares me and something I haven't done before.

There now follows a series of numpty questions

What body prep is necessary? As I will be drilling/screwing through paint and panel is there the need for any form of sealant to stop the 'damaged' area becoming a rust point?
Any advice on the type of screws (3/4inch self tap - need for stainless/galvanized?)
Any need for a washer between flange and bodywork or will this just make things worse as it raises flange off body work?

Thanks for any advice

Stuart

Hi I fitted a VW rail and just wiped the area where the sikaflex was going and put 3/4 self tappers every 12" or so probobaly too much but its solid.
 

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Stainless steel and aluminium are a really poor combination, there is no reason to screw the rail on it is sufficient to bond it on with sikaflex.

Trial fit and lightly abrade the surface that the rail will fit to , clean with isopropyl alcohol and bond it on.
 

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I used the screws that came with the rail.
I didn't apply any rust protection but I did gun a small blob of adhesive over each hole before fitting the rail and another small blob when fitting the screws.
I used masking tape to protect the paint and used coa r s e sandpaper to rough the area under the rail.
I used the cleaner that came with the rail to clean the area under the front and rear plastic end caps.
My rail was slightly the wrong profile, dipped down at front too much, do a trial fit and you may have to move it slightly as you screw it to follow the line of the van, just don't assume it will fit perfect.
Get some panel wipe to remove any excess sealer, can get messy!!
 

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Stainless steel and aluminium are a really poor combination, there is no reason to screw the rail on it is sufficient to bond it on with sikaflex.

Trial fit and lightly abrade the surface that the rail will fit to , clean with isopropyl alcohol and bond it on.
Maybe but Reimo have sold thousands of rails and no problems with corrosion, they recommend screwing it in and pretty sure they know their stuff!! I'd certainly want it screwed on in a gale or doing 70mph (and the restI:) down the motorway!

Plus by screwing you get a tight fit and get it fitted perfectly on the van
 

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Maybe but Reimo have sold thousands of rails and no problems with corrosion, they recommend screwing it in and pretty sure they know their stuff!! I'd certainly want it screwed on in a gale or doing 70mph (and the restI:) down the motorway!

Plus by screwing you get a tight fit and get it fitted perfectly on the van
My apologies, i misread and thought this was the cali rail.....
 
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