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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for a bit of help/advice on this one. Have a ATF leak somewhere on the auto box on my '95 T4. Have cleaned all round the sump and rest of box with gunk and still can't find the source. The dipstick filler tube is a wee bit suspect and intend fitting a new 'O' ring to the filler tube. I'm a bit in the dark as havent got a diagram of the box and its accessories (ordered elsawin off evil bay and it wont run:(). So now clutching at straws - does anyone know how the breather comes off as want to check its not blocked and causing pressure build up (straws again). Any help/advice/suggestions much appreciated - and no I'm not going down the manual route!!!, thanks in advance,dru :confused::confused:
 

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These gearboxes tend to overheat then push some oil out of the the breather next to the cooler.Does the oil smell burnt?.and is there oil on the top of the box next to the cooler?If so replace oil filter and oil,filter £7.50 ebay, oil took five 1L bottles in mine but didnt cure my slipping in 4th and jumpy gears.also found metal shavings on the magnet inside gearbox sump,not a good thing to find. if your box is erratic,clunking,slipping,black flashing on instrement selector display on dash,its probably overheating, there is some advice on here about fitting aftermarket coolers,mainly because the original cooler is fed off the hot engine coolant.
i have swapped my box for a later low millage box from a 97/98 van.box went in well but some parts are different.mail me if you need more info. might be worth looking at the manual swap,depends on how deep your pockets are. or if you caught it early enough change the filter an oil, modify the thermostat to let the coolant run free, and remove the thermostat from the radiator cowling to keep the fins in the open position,the engine runs cooler but so does the box
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jerry for reply and suggestions - no ATF coming out breather pipe (thats why I would like to know how to remove it in case its blocked). Doesnt look as if there is any leaks at driveshafts either. Box performs fine - changes are smooth - no clunks, rattles etc. ATF and filter changes 250 miles ago. Manual conversion not an option as I have probs with left knee - hence auto (not by choice but necessity). You suggest "remove thermostat from the radiator cowling to keep the fins in the open position,the engine runs cooler but so does the box". Perhaps you could give me some advice how to go about this. Retired now but served my time on heavy diesels, and later worked on aircraft so not absolutely clueless mechanically. Just can't get Elsawin to run so reckon I've got a duff copy. thanks again, dru :confused:
 

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Hi Jerry,
Just read your post including reference to an auto to manual gearbox swap. Would be interested to know any further details you have such as who, where, how much?
We love our '96 T4 Caravelle camper but had to be rescued from the Norfolk coast area by the RAC as the gear box started to slip then stuck in, having to fight with the footbrake and knock it out of gear to stop.
Have wondered if a swap is possible but havn't so far found anyone interested in the idea.
As the fuel consumption is high I wondered about a petrol to deisel engine change at the same time suspecting that locating a scrap vehicle might be the best way to get all the bits.
The only alternative that I can see is to buy a panel van, (deisel/auto) and transfer pop top windows and all other camping gear then sell ours as good condition body and low milage engine.
Any info greatly appreciated.
Regards
Joe.
 

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Hi ,thanks for interest and sorry to hear of your breakdown.swapping from auto to manual and visa versa is possible if you have the doner parts,eg pedal box,gearbox ect,manual to auto being more difficult because of the looms needed as well.
The easiest way out for you is to locate a good second hand box with no issues,(hard to find though) or have yours rebuilt.
As you may have read on this site these boxes can be troublesome,but can be fixed sometimes without taking the box out. vw dealers can be helpfull on deciding the best option by investigating the problem you encountered,generally by removing the oil pan and seeing the condition of the parts inside.
On a general level metalic shards and metalicky slime left on the sump magnet will give some indication of the severity but is not allways conclusive.
The van im working on now is a 2.4 1994 lwb auto, i have installed a later gearbox,97/8 which i have had to source some parts of of ebay to solve the problems, mainly driveshaft mounting bracket ect. this van will be for sale when the cambelt is changed and some bodywork sorted.
We are off to busfest this weekend so i will try and help in any way i can,but you may have to be patient as i work and sleep, some times at the same time.
thanks jerry.
 
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