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Hi All,

Embarking on the conversion shortly and was wondering what the best insulation would be for the camper. I have seen Thermafleece and also things like Celatex?

It ideas on the best methods to use?

Thanks

Matt
 

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Hi Matt,

I'm in the same point as you, I bought the earthwool, two rolls, but now all people told me its total rubbish and acts like a sponge. I need help here, I wanted to insulate this week, but now I'm stack.
Thanks,
Tacho
 

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I used a layer of foil backed bubble wrap from B&Q on the metal panel them stuffed the cavity with recycled plastic bottle insulation also from B&Q then taped another layer of the foil stuff to hold it in before putting the carpet panels on top. Works great. Some people also use Kingspan (I think that's what it is called) which is foam boards that are also foil backed.
 

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Hi MESMmack, great, thanks for that, I will use the same, but what about the noise, does it works quieting the noise?

I saw that in B&Q, did you buy this one?
http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insula...or-Multi-Purpose-Wrap-13088585?skuId=13579290

Or maybe that?
http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/storag...-and-Q-Bubble-Wrap-3m-10687639?skuId=11188345

Thanks in advance for your help,
Tacho
I used the top link stuff although it was B&Q's own. This one to be precise.

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insula...Value-Aluminium-Foil-Loft-Insulation-12848829

and the plastic bottle stuff was this.

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insula...tic-Insulation-L-4m-W-370mm-Th-200mm-13168564

Can't remember how much I used. I remember having to get more of the foil stuff and I used the excess plastic stuff in the loft.

As for sound it will make a bit of difference but I used Dynamat on the panels which made a huge difference, some say use Flashband but I've used both and the Dynamat was far better. Although I know it is expensive which some may not be able to afford but if you look at silent coat on eBay it is a lot cheaper and is almost as good.
 

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Great, thanks so much, now I have to recalculate all and start again :) but i think it worth it, it gonna be my first conversion but I will like to do it well.

Thanks
 

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I used the top link stuff although it was B&Q's own. This one to be precise.

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insula...Value-Aluminium-Foil-Loft-Insulation-12848829

and the plastic bottle stuff was this.

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insula...tic-Insulation-L-4m-W-370mm-Th-200mm-13168564

Can't remember how much I used. I remember having to get more of the foil stuff and I used the excess plastic stuff in the loft.

As for sound it will make a bit of difference but I used Dynamat on the panels which made a huge difference, some say use Flashband but I've used both and the Dynamat was far better. Although I know it is expensive which some may not be able to afford but if you look at silent coat on eBay it is a lot cheaper and is almost as good.

This is what I'm going for as far as insulation goes.
 

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You won't get a definitive 'right' answer. Lots of advice and opinions on here but you should read through a few and make your own mind up based on cost on what weight you put on the pro's and con's of the various options. All of the above appear regularly along with lambswool and stuff which you can get from Classic Acoustics (trade members on here, can't member what they use).

Some go to town to seal everything possible to stop condensation on the panels and others don't believe that's possible prefer some air flow to let things breathe. In fact some stuff needs air gaps to insulate efficiently and there's a good thread on here somewhere that covers all the factual technical stuff. That's a useful read but not sure who posted it.

Ultimately there are a number of ways that will achieve an acceptable result. So long as you're happy.

For me, I got soundproofing and insulation from Classic Acoustics and went for the 'give some breathing room' option. Lived with that for a year and more than happy with it.
 
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For a while now we have been using 8mm double bubble foil insulation applied in 3 layers and has proved to work from feedback received from customers, we have now moved one step further with our new insulation/soundproofing kit this consists of a 12.5mm or 25mm closed cell sound deadening foam sandwiched between two 8mm layers of double bubble foil insulation, this will be available in 1.2m by 2.0m sheets, we have been trying the 12.5mm for sometime now and are now confident to offer this package to the forum. Each swb/lwb kit comes complete with double sided and foil fixing tape
 

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Hi Just cross referencing diferent insulation options for my new t4 van conversion.

This sounds effective like you are offering a thinner version of a DIY version which would amount to the same effect, a layer of dbl foil against the van metal, a layer of dense foam like kingspan or celetex then another layer or dbl foil.

Im really concerned about warmth because i want to use the van alround ,condensation because i want it to last and breath and noise dont want the squeak.

can you confirm if your kit can do all these things? and how much would it be to buy it from you and del to cornwall to do a T4 ?

your post was a couple of years ago .. anymore modifications and feed back since !? :)) Im a girl absorbing as much info as possible
in aceleration .. !
 

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I read up loads on the forum a couple of years ago, then decided to go with Flash Band and wool insulation from Amdro.

Flash band is very cheap deadening (bitumen based roof tape) and works. Thermoliner and similar stuff will inevitable deaden better but costs more. Best is Silent Coat or the more expensive Dynamat.

I decided on wool insulation as it's nice to use (no protection needed), was a natural fibre, and nicely fills the panels. I watched the Amdro video's and was taken by it. I think it has less condensation issues than synthetic stuff. The van smells a bit to begin with, maybe for a few months, of sheep, but not strongly and I never minded at all. I read a recent post from Classic Accoustics that they use a synthetic material that's a better insulator for sound and heat than wool. Also, they've seen vans where the wool has got damp from a leaking window and has started to smell.

If I was doing it all again, I'd call Classic Accoustics for some advice. Quite a few people have spoken highly of them. Then I'd weight up the cost versus the gain. Depends what van you're doing. If I was starting with a new Sportline I've spend far more than if I'd bought a 10yr old T4/T5 120k panel van!

Also, don't forget the cab. We all do the back of the van to a very high standard and mostly ignore the bit where we spend most of the time. (One day, I'll strip the cab, Silent Coat and insulate the floor, doors, dash, bonnet etc).
 

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After reading yet another insulation thread, i can't help thinking there will be alot of rusty T5's about in years to come... rusting from the inside that is :eek:
The biggest issue with insulation is condensation, any area that is mass filled with insulation will not breath & hence condensation will collect in that area, the easiest way to relate to this is your house loft, since the 70's all lofts have been vented to prevent just this issue & your rafters rotting away. incase you think i'm talking [email protected] i'm an architectural technician & this has become a big issue since houses have become better insulated.
The modern products such as "thermoliner" go along way to resolving this issue, providing your not tempted to fill the voids that are left after appyling it as need products need an air gap to work

I could rattle on for an age on this subject, but this is all you really NEED to know...... you have been warned
 

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After reading yet another insulation thread, i can't help thinking there will be alot of rusty T5's about in years to come... rusting from the inside that is :eek:
The biggest issue with insulation is condensation, any area that is mass filled with insulation will not breath & hence condensation will collect in that area, the easiest way to relate to this is your house loft, since the 70's all lofts have been vented to prevent just this issue & your rafters rotting away. incase you think i'm talking [email protected] i'm an architectural technician & this has become a big issue since houses have become better insulated.
The modern products such as "thermoliner" go along way to resolving this issue, providing your not tempted to fill the voids that are left after appyling it as need products need an air gap to work

I could rattle on for an age on this subject, but this is all you really NEED to know...... you have been warned
I agree with you. I wouldn't like to buy a car that has been filled up with insulation. A car is different from a house since steel transfers the outside temperature much more then wood and bricks. I believe it's more important to put a protection layer on all steel surfaces, instead of filling it up. I use 10 mm X-treme Isolation that is similar to "Thermoliner", with high temperature adhesive (120C).

There are many houses having problem with mould, etc after the loft has got extra insulation. It's important to increase the ventilation in the loft when adding extra loft insulation, for avoiding humidity related problem.
 

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I was in the same boat, so many people using different ways to do it, I literally spent 4 to 5 weeks researching all options even speaking to suppliers and googling the products on offer.What I eventually realised is that your van has to breath! if you ram every orifice with insulation,then the van cannot ventilate and moisture will collect,
What I eventually decided was to use Thermoliner, not only did I read up on it,i also spoke to Phil at thermoliner and he was really helpful,not only is this stuff a sound deadener, it's also an insulator and he explained everything about the pro's and cons.
He pointed out that thermoliner was designed to sound deaden and insulate and it did not gather moisture, he told me that if you only apply thermoliner to your van,it will not need anything else,adding other insulation on top stops the Thermoliner from working properly, As I have said, I have followed his instructions and what a big difference it has made, I haven't even carperted the van yet, still got the cab roof and front doors to do but the van is now a hell of a lot quiter and warmer, once carpeted it'll be nice and cosy and all for £125. 13 meters and that's for floor,roof,sides,all doors and the cab.
I know everyone has their own ideas and ways and it works for them,but this topic is a minefield hense I researched it on a daily basis, cost came into it as well and I think for what you get, it's well worth the money T:
 

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After reading yet another insulation thread, i can't help thinking there will be alot of rusty T5's about in years to come... rusting from the inside that is :eek:
The biggest issue with insulation is condensation, any area that is mass filled with insulation will not breath & hence condensation will collect in that area, the easiest way to relate to this is your house loft, since the 70's all lofts have been vented to prevent just this issue & your rafters rotting away. incase you think i'm talking [email protected] i'm an architectural technician & this has become a big issue since houses have become better insulated.
The modern products such as "thermoliner" go along way to resolving this issue, providing your not tempted to fill the voids that are left after appyling it as need products need an air gap to work

I could rattle on for an age on this subject, but this is all you really NEED to know...... you have been warned
Condensation is undoubtably an issue, but some of the above posts would lead someone to think that they could put a single layer of 7mm thermoliner on their van walls and then be nice and warm at night. Absolutely not so! Thickness is a key part of the effectiveness of any insulator. 7mm isn't enough, and the thermoliner will be hard to get to cover every sq mm of metal side/roof. Thermoliner is also marketed as a deadener, which it is to an extent, but not the same as Dynamat etc. It's all a compromise, and for my compromise I decided on Flash Band (cheap) with wool insulation (nice to use, thick and fully filled the sides up to 4"). I stuffed the wool everywhere, into all the hard to reach places and tiny holes. Filling the empty voids will stop heat loss through convective air currents too. I'm not saying I'd use flash band and wool again, but I definitely wouldn't stop at 7mm of thermoliner.
 

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I was thinking the same thing with the rusting issue. mind it would take a time but then wouldn't want all that damp in between the outside panels and the inside wood! Ive done a bit of research and came up with what I think is the best suited for me! Its called thermoliner! 7mm foam type stuff with a foil on the outside! its sticky backed so just the case of cut to shape then stick! also its very good at stopping the panels resonating! ive started on my build! check out the pics! and will update when its all sorted and let you know what I think! T:
 

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Must add, my van is not an all out camper its more a motorcross work van which I will sleep in at some of the summertime events! so the cold shouldn't be to much of a problem then I hope!
 
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