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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm afraid I've another "what is this?" about the Beta radio this time.
I pulled out the head unit today and found a couple of spliced wires that I neatly insulated - they're left over from when the AA removed their hardware and my original intention was to search for bare wires that might be draining the battery plus only one speaker works.
Anyway. There is also a wire-joining device piggy-backed onto a loop coming out of the black iso connector. The wire was roughly cut & I could see the reciprocal end protruding from the bundle so I reconnected the brown & red. But then the stereo said "front missing", switched on but woudn't tune. So I replaced it back to how it was but it still doesn't work - it still gives the error message "front missing".
Frustrating. I've gone from one speaker to none and I was only trying to have a tidy up after the AA removed their kit. Can anyone tell what is going on from these pictures?
I'd like to restore it to how it was when it was fitted...
I'd also like to know what the icons on the wiring diagram mean if anyone knows? (UB, the sun, s-kont. k-bus. GA?)


Many thanks, GEO
 

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Looks like from the picture someone has scotchlocked the battery lives (ub+ and +) to the ignition live (s-kont) for the radio. the symbols are "sun" sidelights connection to dim the display when the lights are on, k-bus is the diagnostic line and GA is a speed signal input(used on sat navs). Possibly whats happened is that the ignition live for the radio has failed and been linked to get the radio to work, could be the cause of your drain. The usual cause of this live failing is faulty ignition switch. Its not strictly speaking an ignition live it lkeeps the radio on when the keys are in the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave.
So, on a “normal” wiring set-up are the two battery lives supposed to be looped together like that? Is it just the scotchlock and the cut ignition wire that is not normal?
How can I test to see if my ignition switch is indeed faulty?
 

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Thats correct. I've no idea why VW chose to have two battery lives on the radios but it makes the connector very uncompatible with aftermarket radios. There should be a red brown wire on the back of the ignition switch that should go live when the ignition is switched on. If it doesn'tgo live there is one more test to do but I need to check the diagrams for colour codes first.
 

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Do you mind if I jump in here for a related issue.
Quote
two battery lives on the radios but it makes the connector very uncompatible with aftermarket radios
un quote.
could this account for abnormal lighting up of my Medion Cd/radio. & a hot burning smell:eek:
Is there a wire to remove to get a "Normal" set up?
Sorry to be so rude & jump in.I:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Dave. I've tested the ignition line (brown/ red) which is severed just behind the radio and it is certainly live only when the key is turned to its first position.
Thanks for confirming that the loop is not an ex-AA perculiarity - it's great for me to be able to eliminate possibilities.
I have a feeling that the ignition wire could have been hi-jacked by some AA kit which has since been removed because there's about an inch of it missing - is this plausible? Maybe I should reconnect this wire?
Can you shed any light on why it's now saying "front missing"?
I am going to see if the battery draws charge with and without the radio connected...
Thanks for your help. GEO
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right. I've tested the battery.
With the battery disconnected and the meter on both HT terminal connections the van is still drawing a full charge - it's a complete circuit. That's not right is it?
Then, with the radio totally diconnected, the van electrics are still a complete circuit!
So I've got a charge-leak somewhere and it's not the radio. But the radio is still not right. Two problems.
 

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Right. I've tested the battery.
With the battery disconnected and the meter on both HT terminal connections the van is still drawing a full charge - it's a complete circuit. That's not right is it?
Then, with the radio totally diconnected, the van electrics are still a complete circuit!
So I've got a charge-leak somewhere and it's not the radio. But the radio is still not right. Two problems.
I'm not quie sure how you are testing for a drain could you post a pic with the meter connected
 

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Do you mind if I jump in here for a related issue.
Quote
two battery lives on the radios but it makes the connector very uncompatible with aftermarket radios
un quote.
could this account for abnormal lighting up of my Medion Cd/radio. & a hot burning smell:eek:
Is there a wire to remove to get a "Normal" set up?
Sorry to be so rude & jump in.I:
The main problem is that one of the permant lives ends up connected to the remote output from the radio (not good). the best solution is to get an iso to iso adapter, swap the red and yellow wires ( the bat and ign wires are swapped on VWs) and remove the blue wire from the adapter. This also removes any possblity of any fof the other pins on the van being shorted by the radio
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry. I've just been testing for circuit continuity which is all my meter can read. I need to get an Amp-reading meter and put it in the circuit in series and then pull out the fuses one by one or disconnect components until I find the one that is drawing charge. My mistake!
 

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Here is the plug diagram for the back of the BETA radio



Multi-pin connector I, part 2, green
7 - Telephone input signal, TEL+
11 - Remote control
12 - Telephone input signal, TEL-

Multi-pin connector I, part 3, blue
13 - CD changer, DATA IN (data to radio)
14 - CD changer, DATA OUT (data from radio)
15 - CD changer, CLOCK (internal check protocol for data flow monitoring)
16 - CD changer, terminal 30 voltage supply, positive
17 - CD changer, control signal
18 - CD changer, left and right channels, audio signal earth
19 - CD changer, left audio signal channel, CD/L
20 - CD changer, right audio signal channel, CD/R

Multi-pin connector II, -T8a-, 8-pin, brown
3 - Loudspeaker, front right, positive
4 - Loudspeaker, front right, negative
5 - Loudspeaker, front left, positive
6 - Loudspeaker, front left, negative

Multi-pin connector III, -T8-, 8-pin, black
1 - Gala (speed-dependent volume adaptation)
2 - Radio muting (for telephone operation)
3 - Self-diagnosis/K cable
4 - Connection for ignition-key-controlled switching on and off (S contact)
5 - Anti-theft system control signal, SAFE (terminal 30)
6 - Radio display illumination (terminal 58b)
7 - Battery positive (terminal 30)
8 - Battery negative (terminal 31

Hope that helpsT:T:T:
 

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just wire your radio direct to the battery with new fused cables at least than it dont have to run of ignition with keys in and you can remove some of the aa wiring and get it back to being simple/standard
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update. Stereo is working again but none of the buttons on the front work except the volume knob. I still haven't set the wires back to the way they should be but I think I will - I'd just like it to be standard.
I got an amp meter and connected it in series with my battery to detect the drain - but there was no drain apart from an initial spike which may have been something discharging? Even on the most sensitive setting there was nothing. I have a suspicion that I am still doing something wrong.
 

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Sounds like you are doing it right. A good test is leave the meter connected and open a door to turn on the interior light, then check the meter reads. be careful doing this on too sensivtive a meter range as it may blow an internal meter fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, I finally managed to sort my battery drain problem. After blowing the fuse on a multi-meter and a great deal of messing about with a radio that didn't even work, I replaced the Beta head unit with a Sony unit (it is a minidisc - a taste of the future). I removed that blade-connector/ scotchlock arrangement on the switched ignition which must have been half the trouble and after the cold weather I took the van for its first long trip which gave the battery a damn good charge. I think it will be okay now so thanks to all who helped with that.
Whilst I was fiddling with the radio I added two additional channels to the speaker ISO connector which was easy - I am waiting for my van to come back from the spray shop and then I will fit two extra speakers. I got 4" & 6" Fli - they seem fine.
 

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As a newbie I do not know whether it is appropriate to join this thread or go elsewhere; guidance appreciated.

I've just purchased a new all singing head unit to replace the VW RCD200 unit in my 2009 VW T5, I do not know the make but it came from an internet supplier - not a lot of help or support and the unit would have been cheaper from Ebay.de. The radio at first seemed to work as it should, but it would operate all the time with or without ignition. The killer was that after four days of not using the vehicle the battery was flat, the radio seems to be the culprit. On checking this forum it seems that there is a potential with aftermarket units for incorrect supplies to the red and yellow wires feeding the radio - should be constant live to the yellow and ignition live to the red. Mine both have permanent live. On my vehicle quad lock there are five wires:
Brown - earth
Blue/black - permanent live
blue/black - permanent live
Orange/green - 4v or 12v depending whether ignition is on or off
Brown/orange(?) - permanent 0.4v

Can the problem be solved by simply cutting one of the Blue/black feeds and linking to a convenient ignition live?
 
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