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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got round to fitting my boot solenoid as I didn't want it joined to the central locking.

Got some pictures if anyone is interested.


Kit off Ebay



Had to extend the arm because the solenoid couldn't pull it. Force X Distance etc... etc..



Fitted job done.



Anyone else done this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that's sweet! how have you connected it in to work? remote or a switch?
Fitted a toad alarm 6 months ago which has the outputs already there - just had to cut the interior light switch and use a relay for the solenoid.

A nice touch on the alarm is when you activate it the alarm interior sensors disarm then re-arm when you shut the boot.

I don't think the switch supplied will work cos the tailagte doesn't pop open enough as its too heavy - not without a big spring anyway:eek: (ive got a bike rack too which dosen't help)

Its not neat enough to take a picture of the wiring but the dash is coming out soon so I'll tidy it up then.

Got the solenoid off ebay but would recommend a more powerful one be fitted if possible.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270381798342
 

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Just fitted mine this weekend gone. Fitted a push switch in one of the dash blanks that parallels with the central locking key fob output into the relay so you can pop the boot from either the fob or the switch. Sweet...T:
 

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Front doors next then? They would look cool smoothed completely with some kind of wave sensor to open when the alarm is disengaged T:
Mate the day you start waving at your van i will worry (already starting too I:) :D
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Nice and trick that mate T:
 

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Just fitted mine this weekend gone. Fitted a push switch in one of the dash blanks that parallels with the central locking key fob output into the relay so you can pop the boot from either the fob or the switch. Sweet...T:
Right - I thought I had this sussed but apparently not.

I've got 2 problems:

1st - Intermittent solenoid operation. Checked the 12V and ground and all good getting power to the solenoid terminals so I think the solenoid is duff and will need changing.

2nd - I've got mine hooked up almost identical to Zmok with the solenoid in the same position and even the extension piece to lower the force but increase the distance. With the boot unlocked all works fine (when the solenoid decides to operate at least). However, when I lock the boot and then operate the popper, it opens the latch. Then, coz the handle is disengaged from the mechanism I can't open it the rest of the way. The only way I see it could work is if the solenoid latched on and held the catch up. Otherwise you have to turn the key to unlocked and this defeats the piont of the remote popper :confused: If I leave the boot unlocked all the time, I can open it with the popper but you can also open it with the handle, so that's no good!

Anybody got a solution to no. 2 ?

Cheers
Paul
 

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Right - I thought I had this sussed but apparently not.

I've got 2 problems:

1st - Intermittent solenoid operation. Checked the 12V and ground and all good getting power to the solenoid terminals so I think the solenoid is duff and will need changing.

2nd - I've got mine hooked up almost identical to Zmok with the solenoid in the same position and even the extension piece to lower the force but increase the distance. With the boot unlocked all works fine (when the solenoid decides to operate at least). However, when I lock the boot and then operate the popper, it opens the latch. Then, coz the handle is disengaged from the mechanism I can't open it the rest of the way. The only way I see it could work is if the solenoid latched on and held the catch up. Otherwise you have to turn the key to unlocked and this defeats the piont of the remote popper :confused: If I leave the boot unlocked all the time, I can open it with the popper but you can also open it with the handle, so that's no good!

Anybody got a solution to no. 2 ?

Cheers
Paul
Forgot to add that my popper kit is identical to Zmok's.

Any suggestions folks?

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine works when the vehicle is locked or unlocked - It doesn't matter.

Maybe your catch is different to mine?

You could maybe try doing something with the earth as it can be a bit vague when earthing to the metal of the tailgate.
 

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Mine works when the vehicle is locked or unlocked - It doesn't matter.

Maybe your catch is different to mine?

You could maybe try doing something with the earth as it can be a bit vague when earthing to the metal of the tailgate.
I think you're right about the earth Zmok. It seems very weak (having only the hinges to earth through). Where did you earth to in the end? I looked at splicing into the brown wire to the rear wiper motor but couldn't detect continuity to the chasis so not sure it's an earth. I thought all earth wires were brown?

Cheers,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry bud I cant remember. :( Sometimes brown wires are positives - I work on so many different motors I can never tell without looking at them.

You can see in the picture where I tried earthing it first and it didn't work.

I seem to remember using twin core and earthing near the relay behind the glovebox.
 

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Sorry bud I cant remember. :( Sometimes brown wires are positives - I work on so many different motors I can never tell without looking at them.

You can see in the picture where I tried earthing it first and it didn't work.

I seem to remember using twin core and earthing near the relay behind the glovebox.
No worries - got it sorted.

I also earthed it to the tailgate in about the same position as you and also found the earth was very poor. The brown to the wiper was the earth so I piggybacked on that and all good now thanks.

Cheers
Paul
 

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Hi kitinglard, I have fitted a popper to my tailgate door the same as yourself and zmok’s. I’m having the same problem with the popper only unlatching the door when locked but not fully opening it, how did you overcome this? At the moment I’m just testing it running off the battery and not connected to my rightclick alarm, thanks.:confused:
 
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