VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I noted in another thread "Marko" mentioned setting up his brake bias after lowering his van. Im in a spot of bother myself. Ive lowered the van with CMC springs (60mm drop type)a year or so ago. Was very nice only now i have fully converted to camper and obviously im carrying a lot of weight. im now prolly closer to 85+ drop. Yes the springs i know are not really up to the job im toying with a few ideas like uprated shocks and spring assistors. Problem is i like the van this low (the wheels are tucked up tight level with the rim of the wheel arches when you stand back and look) (only 16" wheels too).

I have issues with the rear brakes nipping when going over bumps or rollers. Obviously this is a little undesired. I looked at trying to move the compensator valve and it looks real tricky and most probably require new pipping. Anyone have and info on making it so the brakes dont come on so much whilst under load???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
I had the same problem with mine, the rear brakes locked up if you brake sharply which was a bit un-nerving at high speed. Yes there was a thread on the old forum covering this topic but due to problems accessing the old forum at the moment (that have been covered elsewhere today) you probably won't be able to read it - but basically I did this:

Refer to this diagram of the rear brake compensator setup and in particular the two blocks Item 2 that go onto each rear trailing arm. These are bolted to the trailing arm via a slotted hole with a 13mm head bolt.



Scribe a line on the bit of the trailing arm where the slot is UNDERNEATH each of the two blocks, then you need to slacken the bolt and move the blocks up the slot - about 9mm from memory, using a ruler and your scribed line as a reference. The spring that attaches to the top of the block will tend to pull the block upwards so watch that you don't move it too far. If you do, pull it back down in the slot by hand and then tighten the bolt.

Then do the other trailing arm the same. You can give it a try by finding a quiet bit of clear road and try a sharp stop from about 15mph.

I can't take credit for this - someone else posted it originally but it worked a treat for me and I don't seem to be getting the problems with heavy rear tyre wear that I was getting before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,668 Posts
Couldn't have put it better myself, Greenmachine. It makes me a bit worried when people slam their vans and don't adjust the compensator, it may feel fine but the valve may have stuck (rusty) only to move when you least expect it and give you some interesting braking moments (like it did me!!!).Could be worth getting it double checked at a garage as they have brake force testing machines.Better safe than sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,489 Posts
My rears only just scraped through the MOT on mine at standard height, hoping that once I lower it I will have more rear brakes and MOT man said I could put it on his rollers to check and adjust as needed. :)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
496 Posts
To set it properly you need a pressure gauge.
To move it X amount is cobblers, you will get it somewhere near but not 100%
Without a gauge theres no way you can do it properly but you can reduce the risk of locking the rears by backing it off a bit.

In my experience, moderate lowering is generally fine and usually no adjustment needed.. but..

It all depends on how low you go, thats why moving adjuster bar X amount for every van is boll*cks.

Personally, without a gauge.. I would mark a stating position, so whan you make a balls of it you can put it back, then move it in small increments till your happy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
got a bit of a problem... the plastic wing nut (part #7) holding the bracket in place doesnt tighten so the whole bar is flapping around. i also 1st tried to screw down the 2 plastic bolt things that the bar rests on (part #8)... snapped them both lol... the ones with the rubber pads on.

basically do i need release the springs so they have NO or little tention on them??? and does the wing nut (part #7) do up tight to hold the bar in place??? will replacing with regular nut suffice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Mm, a bit difficult now as having broken off the two plastic bolts it's going to be difficult to to get anything set. At the very least you need to get two new plastic bolts so at least they can be replaced and you've got somewhere to start from.

You only need to adjust the two bolts as describe in my earlier post. The plastic wing nut doesn't need to be touched.

Whilst I agree with what Simon says about needing a pressure gauge to make the adjustment 100% accurate and that just moving the adjuster X amount for every van is bollo*ks, what we're hoping to achieve here is a situation where the rear brakes don't lock up before the front, which has got to be a whole lot safer that the situation that sn00p's currently got.

All I'm trying to do here is pass on what I've found to have worked on my van which does 40k miles a year of all sorts of driving. Obviously anyone taking my advice (or anyone else's on a public forum) will weigh up the pros and cons of following it before the decide to either have a go themselves of having their wallet emptied by the Professionals.

Sn000p you have a PM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Again thanks guys i recieved your PMs and jujst about to order the new plastic screw thingys... for the moment i have stuck them back with areldite and then sikaflex'd them back in place. I DONT use the van for much at all, maybe 20 miles per week or sommin.

I just need to clarify that by undoing the 13mm bolts and shiftiung the blocks (part #2) im moving them in an upward direction thus letting the tension off the springs??? whish in turn is moving the valve less or more (whatever way you look at it).

also the plastic wing nut thingy is totally stripped so i replaced with a regular nyloc and tightened it up pretty tight correct???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Can someone explain how this brake load compensator is working? My 'velle failed MOT due to seized brake compensator. I was just crawling under my car and trid to figure out what part shoul be moving :confused:

I cleaned this animal (quite rusty and dirty it was) and used some CRC & hammering etc. I used iron bar to move the arm which is connected to trailing arms via springs. I noticed that there was a tiny movement in part #1. I think it is supposed to go up and down depending the position of trailing arms? I'm not fully understanding how it is working. Should it be doing big movement or just a tiny move? If someone has a photos of clean brake compensator it would be great help.

And ofcourse when I went to test drive and kicked brake pedal hard few times brake pipe broke :c
This van is really coming expensive to me as it seems that it always needs some new parts and repairing...well I guess it is mainly previous owners fault as it seems that he did not keep that car so well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,668 Posts
On the diagram, part 1, the metal bracket that 7 and 8 attach to should move up and down. If it's rusty like mine was it will seize. I used plusgas and rocked the bracket up and down till it moved freely. That seemed to do the job. There's not a huge amount of movement but it should move freely.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top