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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, just a quick question. I'm just about to cover my metal in the back, seems that van had a bulkhead at some point as by the b' pillers there is 2 strips with nut threads on them. are these removeable? and looks like seats need to come out!?
 

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I did this last September so.....

Firstly - set a side a good 8 hour day to do this properly (excluding removing seats and trim), don't rush it, I actually did it over 2 days but they weren't full 8 hr days.

Secondly - Beware that hitting the area around the seat belt receivers in the "B" Pillar with the hammer and chisel you run the very strong risk of setting off the mechanism that is triggered in a crash that tightens the seat belts (as by belting the bodywork that close make sit thing you have just hit a tree at speed !). If this happens you will need new seat belt receivers, which I believe are about £150 each.


To remove the bulkhead frame you will need:-

1/ a small angle grinder (4") with suitable grinding wheel
2/ a cold chisel (builder bolster works best)
3/ hammer (lump ideally, but normal one will work)
4/ either a spot weld drill bit (special bit of kit) or just a standard large drill bit (10mm+)
5/Stanley knife + some blades.
6/Primer.

The bulkhead frame is spot welded at various interval's along it's length, so you need to remove the welding fillets to remove it. Also normally it has a fillet of body mastic covering the join between the frame and the body work/floor, which can look like welding but obviously isn't as it's all spayed the body colour.

Take out the seats and the "B" pillars and fold the floor mat back on itself (at this point you may be surprised to find how wet the foam under the mat is, but that's another story), then cover every thing plastic or flammable (don't forget the seat belts) with old blankets, towels or damp newspaper/cardboard to protect it. This is to stop any bits of red hot-metal that will be thrown all over the place by the grinder from causing any damage or fires (unlikely but you never know).

Wear eye protection and work gloves and long sleeves/trousers and gently use the drill bit and angle grinder to remove the spot welds, and the chisel to prise and lever the frame away form the body, take your time and think about what you are doing.

In all likelihood you wont be able to remove all the weld material but enough s you can use the chisel to lever the frame away and move it back-wards and for-wards until it fractures along the join in the weld fillet and snaps away. Then afterwards you can use the angle grinder to smooth any lumpy bits off that are left over. You may find it easier to cut the frame into small more manageable lengths as you go using a 12" hacksaw but that's down to you. Mine cam out in about 3 bits as I could use the already removed part of a length to give me some leverage when trying to fracture the welds.

Finally don't forget to give all the bear metal a coat or two of primer to stop rust, oh and try and ensure you have as much of the metal particles vacuumed up as they will form little rust spots when they get wet/damp.
 

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I did mine recently exactly as described above,I was warned by a VW converter not to move the van with the seatbelts unbolted (i know its unlikely)as a warning light would come on and require a trip to the dealers,I don't know if this is true but i did'nt want to find out!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Holy sh!t, cheers guys, so what ur saying is they dont just unbolt! lol. I have digested all that info glitch and will contemplate stripping it all out, otherwise it could be some sort of rubber trim instead!

cheers again.
 

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Holy sh!t, cheers guys, so what ur saying is they dont just unbolt! lol. QUOTE]

I have heard (although I have not seen it with my own eyes) that if it was a factory fitted bulkhead it is welded, if it was a dealer fitted (or another 3rd party company) then in all likely hood it will be bolted in using riva-nuts + bolts obviously.

Also I do know that some people have raised there floor bed level to about 25mm depth by building a wooden batten framework and 9mm ply on top of that with lashings of insulation in the floor. You can then use a Caravelle step cover to replace the normal one as that has about 25mm clearance under its lip (I know as I brought one in error I:).

This means that the bulkhead frame is now level with the top edge of you flooring if not below it.

The only drawback is you would end up with a 25mm step from the cab area to the rear if you are gong for the two single seats walk through option and not the double passenger option.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hmm guess the only way to find out is to rip out a seat and pull the covers off! I did manage to find my spotweld drillbit this afternoon hunting through my roll box.

Dont think raising the floor is an option with me as I'm quite tall and will be struggling for head room.

the frame I have in mine only runs down either side and the top half is black and the lower is bare metal. I'm really struggling with free time to work on the van its my daily driver and I have to take my misses gearbox out this weekend for a rebuild!
 
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