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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I am new to T4 ownership and this forum.

I have a 1997 2.4L T4 and since I bought it it has been smelling a bit after starting. As I set off fairly quickly after starting up I initially thought it was brakes binding. It turns out it was the connection to the glowplug relay getting hot.

So it won't start now and I intend to have another look tomorrow, I haven't checked the fuse under the bonnet but will do.

If the fuse is gone then that is great but it will probably only start burning wires and my new relay if I replace it. The previous owner gave me a new relay with the van!?

I have printed the useful looking artical about relays and 109's and will stab around with my multimeter.

I am fairly good with a spanner but electrics confuse me once we get away from; wires switches and bulbs.

To get it going I am thinking about hot wiring from battery to glow plugs and then I wonder if I have power to the injector pump cut off so i am thinking of hot wiring to that as well.

But I note a discussion about the ECU controlling the fuel pump? Surely not? I would have thought if the engine is turning and fuel is getting in it is going to run?

Not a great first posting I know. Would have been so nice to be telling you about how great I am with all things electrical.

Thanks

Phil,
 

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Hi Phil, you have a 2.4 which doesn't have an ecu or relay 109 so you can disregard all that stuff. You will need to replace the fuse box if the relay contacts have been burned.
 

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Just had a butcher's at my 1995 T4 Velle 2.4D. As Upspex said, no relay 109. There is a Relay 102 and a 99, maybe some of these are similar to relay 109.

Had some starting issues in Aug, 2011. Used EasyStart sparingly. Checked fuses etc., all good. Removed 102 and tapped it gently with a Screwdriver handle. Seemed to do the trick, and occasionally, if no start, a good wiggle of the relay, good this past couple of months.

All this could be coincidence of course, but worth a no expense try.
 

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A mate had exactly this problem, swapped out the fuse box/board and hey presto!! All was well - good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all that.

This morning I checked fuses and that I had power to the fuel cut off switch on the injector and that it clicked when I put 12volts across it.

I worked out which cable connected to the glow plugs and disconnected it from the fuse then used a jump lead to give it 5 seconds of heat and off she went. Bit hairy but it did it.

I checked the wire from the underbonnet fuse to relay/fuse board and it was ok.

So now I agree, it will either be a new fuseboard or I may get a big relay and wire a simple push button or toggle switch with spring return.

At least i can get going if I need to.

Thanks and compliments of the season

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dear all,

I did post a reply on christmas eve but it didn't get put on. I don't think I said anything untowards?!

Anyway, i checked out the power to the fuel cut off and that was all ok.

I checked the fuse to the heater plugs and disconnected one of the wires. Then worked out which wire went direct to the plugs, and with a jump lead put power on it for 5 seconds. She started.

I checked the wire from the big fuse to the fuse board.

So now I agree, I need a new fuse board.

Assuming this one is posted, thanks for your help and compliments of the season.

Phil
 

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Hey I have had the same thing pins that go into sockets 6 and 4 have burnt out, I replaced with VW fuse box VW part number 357 937 039

same as 93-96 polo, and it worked fine for a year... but guess what today its burnt out again. So anyone with any more helpful advice on why this happens would be appreciated!

Good luck!
 

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It's a wear and tear issue. If you fit one from an old vehicle then it is likely to happen again.
 

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Upspex cheers for that, if fairly common issue that makes me feel a bit better... Was worried glowplug ecu or something else was at fault and keeping plugs on too long. I ordered another fuse box lastnight, so hopefully this will solve the problem. I will check the switching voltage for the relay and see that its working correctly. Are you able to say what the voltage that triggers the relay should be normally? I think mine is 0.17 volts when on dropping to 0.05 volts is this correct? Blue and white wire I think from ecu

Cheers for your help

i
 

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Looking at the inside of the fuse box the pins that make contact with the blades of the relay are burnt, but interestingly only one of each set so I figure that a poor connection where not all of fuse box pins are in contact with the blade of the relay means that the cross sectional area that takes the current when the plugs are on is reduced increasing resistance which causes more heat and causes them to burn out quicker... just my thoughts!
 
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