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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After someone mentioned Dielectric grease here the other day I thought I would give the so called 'Cage Mod' a go.

I was really suprised :eek: that it has made my engine run smoother and removed a glitch that the engine would sometimes stutter for a few seconds when returning to idle. I've posted details of how to do it here

I followed some instructions off the tdi club but think it might be a better idea not to fill the connector but just cover the pins.
 

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just read your mod page , and wondered if you get the same effect by just using the contact cleaner without the grease ?? what does the grease actually do ??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just read your mod page , and wondered if you get the same effect by just using the contact cleaner without the grease ?? what does the grease actually do ??
No, the point of the mod is the Dielectric grease isolates the pins from each as any interference could corrupt the data being sent back to the ECU slightly. The grease is supposedly a worse conductor than air which is why it works.
 

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Air is not a particularly good insulator, especially if its damp. The main loom on a vehicle might only run at 12v but the MAF is very sensitive to voltage changes and the signal that it gives out can vary to a degree if the contacts on the plug are anything other than good.

Using insulating grease as above will cut the chance down of a poor contact, especially after the vehicle has been in use for a couple of years. In my old job working on circuit boards a lot of faults were actually caused by bad contacts on the connectors, if you unplugged the connectors and reseated them a couple of times the problem would more than likely disappear. Same goes for any signal going to the ECU, poor connector contact=poor signal=poor running.


Even if it doesnt make your engine run better it wont do it any harm either.

T:
 

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If this stuff works on the MAF terminals then use it on all the other senser terminals so they are true as can be,personally i have never tried it but if i have a terminal/plug problem through corrosion or damp i will either use wurth kontact oil which cleans the metal terminals chemically or replace the whole plug if it is beyond service.
 

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Ive seen this technique used in connectors on helicopters that are exposed to outside air, I think the theory with the helis is, if there is loads of silicon grease in there then there is no way for damp and salt or any other contamination to get at the contacts within.
As an aircraft engineer I would agree with some comments above, I often see aircraft faults cleared by cleaning plugs on sensitive electronics with solvents and then drying them with compressed air, these are sealed connectors too, it only takes a small amount of contamination to throw a gremlin into the system, even plugs that look spotless can benefit from this treatment.
As for the mod, theres no guarantees but its not going to do any harm to try it, just dont get your silicon grease mixed up with your copperslip greaseT:
 

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yeah done mine yesterday after saying to my son is this a load of bo--ocks or what he said no dad we use it on every ford service and it has made a diference
 

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Ive seen this technique used in connectors on helicopters that are exposed to outside air, I think the theory with the helis is, if there is loads of silicon grease in there then there is no way for damp and salt or any other contamination to get at the contacts within.
As an aircraft engineer I would agree with some comments above, I often see aircraft faults cleared by cleaning plugs on sensitive electronics with solvents and then drying them with compressed air, these are sealed connectors too, it only takes a small amount of contamination to throw a gremlin into the system, even plugs that look spotless can benefit from this treatment.
As for the mod, theres no guarantees but its not going to do any harm to try it, just dont get your silicon grease mixed up with your copperslip greaseT:
As a aircraft sparky I concur! Used the pull box out re-insert trick many a time!
 

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LRU reseated FNLA


written on a many a jobcard. the grease will stop it happening. sometimes ultra clean terminals is not what you want as it can lead to corrosion
 

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did mine today - air flow meter, air temp sensor on intercooler, throttle pedal connector and both big multiblocks on the ECU. made a noticeable difference. then did the EGR clean up and blanking off mod. EGR was half full of ****! :eek:

has doing all this made a difference?

took it for a blast round the bypass... my face now aches from constant :D:D:D:D
 

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did mine today - air flow meter, air temp sensor on intercooler, throttle pedal connector and both big multiblocks on the ECU. made a noticeable difference. then did the EGR clean up and blanking off mod. EGR was half full of ****! :eek:

has doing all this made a difference?

took it for a blast round the bypass... my face now aches from constant :D:D:D:D

Superb! ......and best of all, it cost penny's!
 

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My Van used to idel like a rotary.. but now after buying the 'silcon grease' from Maplin and doing as advised.. It's idels as soomth as silk,well at least for a diesel it is and pick up from stand still is better aswell!!
 

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did mine today - air flow meter, air temp sensor on intercooler, throttle pedal connector and both big multiblocks on the ECU. made a noticeable difference. then did the EGR clean up and blanking off mod. EGR was half full of ****! :eek:

has doing all this made a difference?

took it for a blast round the bypass... my face now aches from constant :D:D:D:D
After reading this thread im thinking of doing it too.
Would be interested to know where these other sensors etc are located.
It may be quite obvious to some but a little knowledge wont hurt T:
 

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Would be interested to know where these other sensors etc are located. It may be quite obvious to some but a little knowledge wont hurt T:
Sounds like a good idea, what other ones do you all recommend? I did this yesterday. My van is an 03 and just passed the 100k mark. I decided to use the contact cleaner too rather than just slap the grease in.

Contacts all looked pretty good when I looked but was amazed when I gave them a blast with the cleaner that there was a lot of violent bubbling goin on as the contact cleaner ate away at hard to spot corrosion that was obviously on them. Once clean I left for an hour to ensure all the cleaner had evaporated. Used the grease then reconnected the MAF lead.

My tickover used to hunt a bit at idle, thats now gone. Throttle response, most noticeably coming off the accelerator is better so so far think it's worth doing for a few quid.

I also did the same with my bonnet switch (top left hand side of engine bay). That sucker has been playing up for a while now causing my oil light to flash yellow sporadically. A good clean and grease and it's all behaving properly now A: That switch is prone to corrosion and aggro from water so good to get the connection well sealed up.

I probably noticed a good difference as living by the sea we have a very salty environment so no doubt eat away at the van's contacts quicker.

So which other contacts should I do?............................
 
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