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Discussion Starter #1
For the last two years DM Auto Electrical and now campertronic have been a main dealer for Right Click in the uk. These are the ones with flip keys!

Here are the instructions for our designer central locking kit Specifically for the T4.


Before i get in to the how, lets do why.

If you buy an aftermarket locking kit, then buy the OE rods, you may encounter problems with the actual locking mechanism not being suitable or the rods not working correctly because the OE motors are different from the aftermarket ones.

This kit has been designed for complete ease of installation of aftermarket central locking to your VW T4. This kit has everything you need for a quick and easy installation, with minimum of effort and head scratching A:

The two most popular products we sell are the remote central locking kit, and the alarm with central locking kit. Both its require the same additional parts to make the kit a bespoke package.

Please see our website for details and prices of the available kits - www.campertronic.co.uk

Here its is:



You will need;

wire cutters, strippers and a good quality crimping tool
a selection of screwdrivers
an electric screwdriver with a Philips bit (not pozi)
a 16mm hole cutter/drill
anywhere from 2 hours plus - I usually allow 4 hours to do everything properly and put all the bits of trim back on after wards.

Included in the standard Kit;
2 x master motors
2 x slave motors
1 x control unit
2 x remotes
Mounting hardware.

Additional parts of the designer/bespoke kit

2 x mounting plates (fitted to the master motors)
2 x specific locking rods - front doors
1 x specific locking rod - barn door
1 x extra length rod - sliding door
1 x front door wiring harness
1 x sliding and rear door harness
1 x sliding door contacts
1 x fixings and hardware pack including 3 x locking rod retaining clip.


How to


Firstly remove the door cards from the front doors and install any grommets or door bellows. decide where you want to mount the control box, usual locations include behind the fuse box, and in the steering wheel cowl.

There is enough wire on the loom to mount as you desire. Run the shorter length from your control point to the nearest door, and the longer wire to the furthest door. Take care not to run the cable anywhere where it may interfere with you steering of pedals etc

your doors should look like this;


these are the holes you will use to mount the motor plate



looking at the locking mech this is where you need to place the retaining clip


and this is with the clip installed


next step is to fit the rod, push firmly and it will clip into place.


now attach the motor to the bottom of the rod


and locate the fixing holes into the correct place, and fix with the self drilling screws provided.



this is what you should see if you can contort your head into the space


close the door and check that the locking mech works freely and that the motor rises and falls with the locking pin.

At this point i would recommend that you do not replace the door card - wait until you have tested it incase any adjustments need to be made!!

Repeat this process of the other door.

Connect the wiring to the motors using the crimps all colours go to the smae except green which goes to the black with white trace. take note that there is a spare wire within the cable this can be used as you wish or not at all, as the kit is supplied the spare core is not connected at the control end. any spare cable can be cut to length.

once both doors are done you can power up and test the locking is working, although again i would recommend that you install the rest of it first.

For the slider and back doors, the wiring should be routed up the A pillar, and should follow existing wiring to the back doors and the interior lighting wiring to the sliding door contact. - the shorter of the two wires is for the slider and the longer for the barn doors - the wire may seem far too long for the back, this is to take into account for LWB vans and tailgate models, please note that the kit is for barn doors, and no advice can be given about how to adapt the tailgate locking mechanism.

For the slider you can get the wire down the b pillar and following the door pin switch wire you will get to where you need to be. access can be obtained by removing the passenger side seatbelt roll to get in to the b pillar. if you remove the roll please please please pull all of the seatbelt out first, then using a clamp or tie a knot in it to stop it going back in. This will make life a lot easier when you want to put the belt roll back.

to mount the door contacts, start with the one on the door, this is mounted as pictured


to make sure you get the other part in the right place, put some ink (marker pen or kids poster paint works well) on the spring contacts and close the door, this will give you two marks where the van mounted contacts need to sit.



With the door card(s) off the motor is mounted again using factory holes




fit the extra length locking rod, and using one of the supplied clamps attach it to the door pin rod. this is easier to achieve with the door pin in the locked position - make sure the motor is in the locked position too.



For the Barn doors,

Remove the door card, internal handle and it's easier if you remove the connecting rod from the internal handle to the mech.

these are the mounting holes


just above the arrow is where the retaining clip goes,


the motor fits like this.



and this is what it all looks like installed



again make the connections.



Now that it's all installed go back and just check that all the wires (except the spare core to the front doors) are connected properly, and that there is nothing obvious that you have missed. you are now ready to connect the system to the control unit and test.

connect the multi plugs of the two harnesses to their counterparts on the control box and connect power to the control box as per the included instructions.

Test the doors operate with the remote control/flip key, lock and unlock. test that they all operate from the front doors, either by locking with a key in both front doors or by pushing/pulling the pins in the doors.


Trouble Shooting

The locks go up and then straight back down or go down and straight back up?
loosen the motor plate fixings on the front doors, adjust so that the motors fully extended when the lock is open or fully withdrawn when the lock is closed and tighten the screws.

The slider and or the rear door does the opposite to the rest of the doors
check that you have not crossed the wires over - this is particularly common with the slider as the door contacts can easily be connected differently. simple swap the two wires over.
 

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Hi I brought one of your kits a few weeks back and finally got round to fitting it the weekend, all was going well till I wired up main box and can't get it to power up.

I have taken a new live feed directly from battery to the bladed fuse supplied on red wire, black wire have taken to earthing point in engine bay, the nut to left hand side.

Not sure what should be done with grey and white wires?

I'm not sure what I'm missing here but can't get this to work, tested my live feed with a mult meter and I get a 12v reading.

Please could you shed some light on where I have gone wrong?

Thanks Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Which kit have you bought?

The loom has a white plug on it, the four wires are red - positive, black - negative, white and brown are unused with the remote kit, but are used for the alarm kit, the wires connect like for like from our loom to the actuators, ie blue to blue, green to green etc etc

When you say fails to power up? Does the system work manually? Check the fuse for continuity with a multi meter, check voltage between your earth point and live.
 

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Hello,

You installed one of these kits on my red T4 about 18 months ago.
The drivers side door unlocks fine 90% of the time but it never locks. I have to manually turn the key every time.

Before i take my door card off can you tell me what it is likely to be?

Best,

Tom
 

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Which kit have you bought?

The loom has a white plug on it, the four wires are red - positive, black - negative, white and brown are unused with the remote kit, but are used for the alarm kit, the wires connect like for like from our loom to the actuators, ie blue to blue, green to green etc etc

When you say fails to power up? Does the system work manually? Check the fuse for continuity with a multi meter, check voltage between your earth point and live.
Voltage is reading 12v+, when I say fails to power up the blue led that pugs into unit does not light up? And when I use key fob it doesn't do anything to locks at all. I have connected all wires as per instructions, but can't get the unit to function at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Tom, check all the connections to the motor, if it's operating in one direction only ie unlocks but not lock, then usually points to either motor connections or motor failure, if motor let me know I've got spares.

Jelly head, what kit have you got? Alarm and central locking or just central locking?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Iain,

The kit you linked to is a universal kit with some t4 specific parts, such as door rods and clips.

We no longer make or sell a full designer kit as the time to make them was rarely available which meant long waiting times and unhappy customers.
 

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Hi, I am trying to fit one of your kits just now and am having issues. The drivers door lock does not activate the central locking at all, not with the key, and not using the door pin. I have not fitted the alarm yet as I wanted to sort this first. When activated using the passanger door key or door pin, the drivers lock continually locks and unlocks!

All is wired correctly, and I have tried adjusting the position of the motor in the drivers door about a thousand times!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi, Sorry to hear of your problems,

Firstly check that you have connected all the wires tightly, secondly remove the locking rods from the actuators and check that they operate properly without the rods attached.

Usually if the actuators open and close repeatedly on activation, then the actuator may not be mounted in the correct position.

Currently we are not manufacturing a designer kit (as featured in this post) due to time/cost/availability issues, although we hope to rectify this shortly.

The bundle kit requires that a mounting hole is drilled in the drivers and passenger doors to alow the actuator to mount in the correct position, This will position the actuator so that the arm moves up and down in parallel to the locking pin in the door.

if you have the arm operating at even a slight angle this may cause problems.
 

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Switched the actuator from the passenger side to the drivers side earlier, and put one of the rear actuators in the passenger side, and it works perfectly. It was getting dark though so I packed up for the night. I will try putting the other one that wasn't working in the passenger side tomorrow and see if it works. :*
 

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Put the actuator back in the passanger side, and again it does not work. Not with the key, or the door pin. It locks when the other side is activated. It must be a problem with the actuator itself, could I exchange it for a new one?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi, Shouldn't be a problem, Email Carolyn - [email protected] she'll be in the office in the morning, if you can let her know when and where you bought the kit and what kit you have and she should be able to sort you out.
 

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Just installed a T4 central locking kit from Campertronic.

Was nice and easy to fit, once i sorted some door bellows from the scrappies and made sure i used the 3 grommet correctly.

I have not wired into the indicators as yet , was just happy to have the 2 front doors opening and closing via the key fob.

Looking to sort the sliding door next, so just asking about rods and connectors etc.


Received a good service from Campertronic very happy with the flip keys and the cut keys work great.


Cheers

Geoff
 
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