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Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellow T5 enthuasts. This is my first post here so I'm hoping for some positive answers.

I'm currently running a 2005 VW T5 2.5 174 TDI Manual Caravelle with 157,000 on the clock.

Over the last couple of months it slowly began to shake (the Dual Mass Flywheel) this slowly got worse. Then i began losing coolant and kept having to top up regularly. 500ml-1 Litre every 100 miles or so. I took it into the garage about the coolant loss and the mechanic just ran it and topped it up, no problem solved. It continued with the same fault so i took it in again and after reading the advice on here I instructed the garage to change the water pump.
After some head scratching he realised that the gearbox had to come off to complete this job. So it made sense to do the DMF and clutch at the same time. These were all replaced but the coolant loss problem still persists and now it seems to engine 'wobble' when i accelerate a bit harder than normal. I had it back to the garage for an MOT and got him to test drive for his opinion, luckily a manager from a van centre was in there who went out on the test drive. His opinion was that the coolant loss was down to a probable crack in the head and the engine 'wobble' is due to the cam being warn which will get worse in time.
The current MPG is around 20-30 depending on where i'm going.
Is there any experts out there that can confirm this? I'm wondering what to do with the van now as it is a great family vehicle but I dont want to be spending more money on it after just doing the MOT and the DMF.

Thanks in advance for your replys.
 

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Hi if the camshaft wears u normally hear a popping sound from the engine and the coolant is normally the coolant pump but ive heard of a few where there is a small crack in the cylinder block when u start it up after being stood does it run abit rough for a few seconds then go ok.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for you replies. Yeah the engine does run lumpy to start, what does this mean?
The waterpump is apparantly behind the Gbox on these.
I think its time to get rid before i have spend even more cash. Are the 2.0 TDI 140s OK?
 

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Well u know how it goes sometimes one thing after another the new ones are good with ehat ive heard mate j need to drive one.

Cheers
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
AXE failure
After ringing the garage my mechanic confirmed 507.00 oil had been used as recommended by VW. From what I understand 506.01 is probably the better choice.
Anyway while I was considering doing the oil change the consumption of coolant increased, hugely. There was no white smoke but my hand did get wet on covering the exhaust and got worse as it heated up.
The oil level had gone up so before anything this was drained off a little. The coolant topped up and some Holts weld added too. It was run on a short journey and then the engine did not want to run. The water pump has already been changed.
Is this the oil cooler, head or block?
 

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If you got no dpf then longlife 2 506 oil should be used. As for coolant loss its almost deffo the waterpump that sounds like hasnt been changed and box doesnt have to come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi all,
I've looked at the engine self study programme http://vwpress.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/ssp-305-e.pdf and at the engine itself. I agree the box doesn't need removing to do the pump. I physically saw the old pump so know it was changed along with the DMF and clutch which were overdue. My concern is that, is it possible to fit it incorrectly somehow so it does not seal properly? About 5 litres of water went into the oil. I drained it but now the engine struggles to turn over. I did however run some Holts Weld through to try and 'fix' the leak. I just wonder if this went through to the oil and is causing issues. I'm now looking at sending it to http://small-engine.co.uk/ Has anyone used him, is he good? I realise I might be looking at a full engine strip and build but finger crossed its just the head gasket or cam that's had enough.
Any advice welcome!!
 

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The water pump has 3 seals, 2 on the cylinder of pump with a drain located at back of block between. Them in case of leaks, but this drain blocks up. The third seal is the pump shaft seal. When changing the pump there is a drain plug at back of block so when you pull pump out you dont fill the sump with coolant, maybe they didnt!
If youve lost that much coolant into oil, the fact you are hydrauliced by the sound of it, maybe head gasket has gone and you got coolant in the cylinders. Pull the heater plugs turn it over see if its easier and if coolant comes out of heater plug holes.
I would defo do some. Hecks like coolant jacket pressure test, cylinder pressure test and see what is going on.
 
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