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My central locking now works fine on the front and rear door having had the drivers door loom repaired, this also fixed my electric windows :) however my sliding door wont lock/unlock on the central locking which I operate from the key in the drivers or passenger door rather than from a remote fob..........any ideas
 

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Hi

Great thread, every page is really helpful.

Basically I bought an old transporter, W reg

The drivers door uses the ignition key to open it just about but also a solo door key

The passenger door uses a different key completely.

So I have to go around and lock the cab doors, slide door and barn doors manually and it's a bit annoying plus there is no alarm so I'm a real ticket to get broken into.

I'm really considering buying the Right Click C/Lsystem and the 4 rods, clips and possibly get the bellows from a breakers yard.
The fact that the original owner must have changed the passenger doors lock, does this affect me ordering keys from Right Click?

After installing Right Click, is it possible to install an alarm system?

Any help is appreciated:ILU:
 

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I have just fitted this kit (identical), but I bought mine from Travelin-Lite on ebay together with alarm and electric windows for £310 complete. I think they sell just the central locking kit (identical) cheaper than T4srus. I had no problems fitting the kit, all worked fine and I am pleased with the installation. If you buy it and need any help give me a shout.
 

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The whole kit was no real problem, windows/alarm/central locking, as long as you are a reasonable diy'er. The instructions are not too bad, I had to get a couple of things made a little more clear and had to make a few minor improvisations along the way. I have never done this before, but do all my own maintenance/repairs etc. Once I had finished I replaced the battery and checked the operation and found everything to be working perfectly, job done. As I mentioned, if you decide to go ahead and have any questions let me know and I will be happy to help if I can. My installation was to a 1993 2.0L petrol with tailgate.
 

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thanks Phot!

Mine is a '94 1.9 Diesel w/ Tailgate... so not too far apart.

The Electric window kits are not cheap though.... will stick with just the CL kit at the moment unless I have a substantial windfall :)
 

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I think the longest and most fiddly part of the job was the wiring, getting the wires to the pillar for connecting to the sliding door and the wires all the way back to the tailgate. My van is a full camper so had to get the wires to the tailgate by feeding thru the best route drivers side behind cupboards etc. I also had a small problem with the tailgate release. I have a bike rack fitted to the tailgate and its makes it heavier. I found that the spring poppers which open the tailgate would not fully open it, springs not quite strong enough. I solved this problem and it is operating fine now. I read a post by another member who mentioned that he found the wires which go to the pillar/sliding door were a little short and he needed to extend them, I also found the same. I dont know what route the manufacturer had in mind, but if you follow the best route, the tidiest route, which is up the windscreen pillar (passenger side), along the roof and down the sliding door pillar, the wires are too short and require extending. The wires would probably reach if they were routed along the floor, but I dont think that is a good method. Fitting just the central locking, without all the other stuff I fitted, will be a pretty easy job. Send me a pm if you need any help.
 

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just a quick note on wiring in indicators to a right click c/l only system this is based on my own system fitted to a 2001 t4 2.5 tdi bear in mind your wiring may be different
but the wires I needed to connect the brown indicator signal wires from the right click system were in the LOWER connector on the steering column and not where you would expect in the two connectors by the indicator stalk it has a red connector block and there is a green/black wire and a black/white wire in there to connect to (not the white/black with green blocks(as I previously connected to )or the white/black and green/black in the connector by the indicator column which are for the headlights and will blow the fuse)I:
 

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Have started fitting today, got the front door mechanicals in but was stymied by the sudden onset of rain.
Thought i'd come back here and have another read through of the thread.
Off out tomorrow to buy a few more bits and pieces to join wires and find a suitable gaiter.

Phot - mine is a full camper as well so am looking forward to shenanigans getting the wires back to the tailgate. The sliding door wiring will route easier across the floor for me as I have a heavily modified roofline. Luckily I have some industrial strength carpet adhesive...
 

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New door bellows proved to be quite pricey from VW so I went to the local breakers yard and found some suitable alternatives from an old Scirocco which I used successfully.... front doors now working beautifully.

Next step... drilling holes in the B Pillar and threading wiring past the fuel filler and seatbelt mount.... v
 

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That sounds good in principle however the cable is y-shaped and already wired in on the other two ends, the (pre-fitted) connectors are large on those ends too so i think up is my only choice (without cutting and joining the cable...)
 

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Hello again all,

I have finished both the sliding door and the tailgate boot popper now and have a few nuggets of advice:

To save the price of buying expensive large bore drill bits to mount the electrical contacts and boot poppers, i bought a step drill bit like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006B3P1SQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very easy to use.

Having a campervan I found my large can of industrial carpet adhesive very useful as I had to pull back the carpet, cut into it and refit.

I took my power, both the 12v and 12v switched, from the stereo as these were clearly labelled there and was close to a nice big space behind the dash.

As detailed earlier, I made my own door bellows from the blanking plugs with a hole cut in the centre and some rescued bellows from a VW Scirocco. These worked a treat and at 4 quid from the breakers yard were much more cost effective!

I used bullet connectors where i needed to join cables and made good strong connections.

The best thing about the boot popper kit is that it uses a rod connected to the release catch (the one you can reach from inside) this the lock stays locked the whole time and you don't have to drive around with the boot unlocked as was a worry for a previous poster.

I didn't bother trying to salvage the grey plugs that attach the door cards (near the door lock) as they are a complete . I bought a load of them and just replaced.

The most important advice I have to to take your time, understand the system, the electrics etc and be methodical.

I did the whole lot over 3 days (in between rain showers and Grand Prix) and am very happy with the results :)

cheers!

Ted
 

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Huge thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I bought the Right Click kit from EBay and the two front rods from VW (at over £3 each) and have successfully fitted it to the two front doors of our 2002 T4. I've got flashing indicators having clipped in to the wires under the steering column and a fully working remote & key having had the supplied key blank cut by an Exeter locksmith and the transponder swapped over. This took longer than expected as I didn't realise the key fob simply pulls apart!
I have fitted the mechanism to the sliding door but haven't yet been brave enough to drill the holes necessary to take the contact switch/plate between the door and the post between the front passenger door and the slider. Also need to do the barn doors which have a totally different lock mechanism to that shown in the thread: have had the back off and lock mechanism out and don't think this will be a problem, should be able to use the supplied rod & mounting strip. Will post pictures as work proceeds.
Again, thanks to everyone who has contributed, great thread.

Adam
 
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