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Wavestarved, I noticed in your pad changing thread picture 4 shows your arrows pointing to the caliper carrying bolts to be removed to change pads, as an alternative method , in the AA service centres and the Main Dealers we would generally be removing the slider pins in the rubber sleeve with plastic cover caps leaving the caliper carrier in situ, this would enable easier reassembly of the components. Only my opinion, cheers :D
 

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Wavestarved, I noticed in your pad changing thread picture 4 shows your arrows pointing to the caliper carrying bolts to be removed to change pads, as an alternative method , in the AA service centres and the Main Dealers we would generally be removing the slider pins in the rubber sleeve with plastic cover caps leaving the caliper carrier in situ, this would enable easier reassembly of the components. Only my opinion, cheers :D
Thats correct. After you remove the caps from the rubber sleeve, you need a 7mm allen key to undo the bolts/sliders. Much much easier. T:
 

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did the back brakes the other day with this supberb guide, many thanks...

Prpblem when doingt the front ones, the bolts are sezied like murder.. wrecked my ratchet lol... also should i have the wheels turned at an angle when doing this to allow for room for a breaker bar???

many thanks,

K.
 

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with thisexcellent guide i changed the pads on the back no bother, the front ones are giving me hell, the bolts are tight as murder.. should i turn the wheels to allow for room to get a breaker bar in there??

Many thanks,

K.
 

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Wavestarved, I noticed in your pad changing thread picture 4 shows your arrows pointing to the caliper carrying bolts to be removed to change pads, as an alternative method , in the AA service centres and the Main Dealers we would generally be removing the slider pins in the rubber sleeve with plastic cover caps leaving the caliper carrier in situ, this would enable easier reassembly of the components. Only my opinion, cheers :D
Good suggestion. That's what I did before with my bmw. Needs a very substantial allen key though, not the bicycle repair kit type!!!!

Any chance of adding the disc replacement instructions?
 

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Um, I've got a set of genuine pads for the rear and they have a sensor attached to one of them. Which side does this need to go on, cos I can't see the plug (vehicle end) on either side?! :*
 

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Um, I've got a set of genuine pads for the rear and they have a sensor attached to one of them. Which side does this need to go on, cos I can't see the plug (vehicle end) on either side?! :*
i had the same problem there was no where to plug it in on either side so just choped the plug off shouldent be an prob just check your pads every now and thenT:
 

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Hi,

I have been to a few car parts retailers and none of them know which pads (front) I need. Its going to be a pain in the ass to take off the wheel off at the shop to show them. I have a 2002 VW t4 2.5 tdi. I know they have sensors but which ones do I ask for?

Probably a stupid kweschun but ...

Thanks in advance..
 

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I bought some pads from GSF today and was talking about the many variations of pads discs for T4's and the guy mentioned that gsf had a system that could tell you the exact parts needed unless it was an ex AA van, and this was ecause they upgraded many parts to heavy duty because of the nature of the work.

If you don't have a wind back tool, whats a good alternative?
 

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I bought some pads from GSF today and was talking about the many variations of pads discs for T4's and the guy mentioned that gsf had a system that could tell you the exact parts needed unless it was an ex AA van, and this was ecause they upgraded many parts to heavy duty because of the nature of the work.

If you don't have a wind back tool, whats a good alternative?
For the front brakes use elbow grease and push, but for the back brakes a wind back tool is a must they can be got fairly cheap on a particular internet auction site.
 

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many thanks for this , helped me a lot very usefull....except now I've got to the real cause of the problem and its a seized caliper , now removed and looking for a replacement .
 

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I do this without the windback tool (and have many times over). I've got a carpentry G-clamp with a "cup" on the end that rotates so as not to damage the wood as you tighten it. I'm sure you've seen the type. I clamp it onto the cylinder and tighten it just hand tight without forcing it. Then I rotate the cylinder (in the direction that offers the least resistance) using some slip joint pliers that just grip the edge of the cylinder without damaging the rubber seals. I turn it maybe 45-90 degrees until it becomes hard to turn. Then I tighten the G-clamp a little bit more followed by another quarter turn or so. Eventually you reach the end of the travel and you can fit the pads. Once I didn't fully wind it back in and suffered binding brakes until i wound it all the way in and let the mechanism itself re-set the position.
 
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