VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi

We bought our LT end of last year to slowly convert to a camper. It's been running fine until last week. I took the battery out to replace the rotten battery tray and since putting it back in, it wont start. It cranks OK but wont fire.

I have undone one of the injector pipes and cranked - no fuel.

I tried running a wire directly from the battery to the fuel cutoff solenoid and still no luck. When I do this, I can here the solenoid do something but it's more like a slow grinding noise rather than a click. Does this sound like a faulty solenoid? If not anyone have any other suggestions?

I did have to hammer (very hard!) a socket onto a couple of rotten nuts to get the old battery tray off. I don't think I have damaged anything but is there anything delicate around that area that I could have knackered?

I've plugged it into my computer with the free VCDS-light software and no faults found. I have had an immobiliser fault in the past but this has been cleared and has not come back.

The van doesn't start but damn does the battery tray look good!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Hi,

I'll try check my cut off solenoid in the morning for any sound it makes, for comparison, I would imagine it'd be a straight open and close click.
Have you got fuel? Fuel filter ok? Fuel leaked back from pump? Checked the fuses?
What year and engine code do you have?
It's ashame a battery has to go back on that beautiful tray!!

Tommy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Tommy

There's half a tank of fuel but none getting to the injectors . I recently did a full service and had trouble getting it started after changing the fuel filter (and valve). Once I'd filled the filter to the brim with diesel it started fine and I've driven it a couple of times since (only short 10 minute trips) with no issues. Started first time and very smooth. It then sat for about 2 weeks while I was sanding and painting the new tray.

I'm new to diesels (hence forgetting to prime the fuel filter when I serviced!), how do I check if fuel leaks back from the pump?

I keep meaning to check the fuses, I'll check them when I get home tonight.

It's a 2000 reg and ANJ code.

I have also fully charged the battery as all the cranking drained it. Still no luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Well there's a definite click sound from the pump. If you have a multimeter you can test the solenoid should be 3-10 ohms.
In the diesel feed line to the pump there is a clear section just before the pump to see if there's diesel in the line, when you prime the system it should be done from return line on top of the pump, that'll get any air out of the pump.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
A quick update on this. It no longer cranks.

Fully charged battery and I get a click but the starter motor does nothing and then a strong electrical smell from that side of the engine.

I've since replaced the starter motor with a Bosch remanufactured unit and still the same click and smell but no crank.

Any segestions greatly appreciated. Could a knackered battery cause these symptoms?

Cheers
Luke
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
281 Posts
How's the earth strap on the engine? It's possible that it was bad and you shook it loose, with enough of a connection left to crank but not fast enough to start, and now that connection has burnt out and isn't allowing enough current through to even crank. Could explain the smell too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Do you know of the top of your head where the engine earth strap runs? I'll check it tonight.

The cable from the battery to the bulkhead is good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Have you checked loom to ECU when my LT35 wouldnt start with same symptoms it was ECU loom aparently its a common fault they corrode in the insulation where it plugs into ECU it took a good vw indie a couple of days to sort it and its as good as new now. Also check ECU isnt full of wayer at the same time that is what gave mine an immob fault code I to changed starter and replaced fuel lines they dont have an in tank pump hope you get it sorted mines 18yrs old now and it is like triggers broom if it didnt make money for us i would of burnt it years ago it must have cost as much in repairs over the years as it did to buy new they are the poor sickly cousin of a sprinter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
281 Posts
Not sure where the earth strap is sorry, I just know it's a commonly overlooked issue on most vehicles.

It will be between the block and the chassis, near the bottom of the engine bay.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I found the earth and its nice and clean. I jad a look at the ecu and couldnt work out how to get the loom off. Ill have another go tomorrow. It is likely that the ecu has been soaked before with the sate of he old battery tray.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I had problems with mine not starting and changed loads of stuff, looms, control unit, heater plugs etc. turned out it was the timing (Doh!), but that does mean i have a control unit going spare and as it happens, i will be in north bristol tomorrow and again on thursday, if your interested.

If this is the right one....




And your interested, i'll let you have it for 30% of what i paid (i paid £101.90 :eek: )

Let me know if your interested as soon as, as i won't have access to the sight tomorrow...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks, is that for the glow plugs? My glow plugs are definatly working so I dont think it would any use for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Yes, thats the control unit for the glow plugs.

Sorry just reread all the posts properly and realised its not this you were talking about (insert embarrassed face emoticon here)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Ha no probs! All info welcome at this point!

I've just been investigating with my multi meter. FYI trying to take voltmeter readings in the engine bay whilst also turn the ignition is not easy. I ended up setting my phone to video the multi-meter while I was turned the key.

Here is what I found:

The thin cable to the starter
Key out: 0V
Key at first click: 0.5V
trying to turn over: 12V

The thick cable to the starter
Key out: 12.6V
Key at first click: 11.7V
trying to turn over: 4.5V

The cable from the solenoid to the starter
Key out: 0V
Key at first click: 0V
trying to turn over: 3.8V

Does anyone know if this helps narrow down my starting issue? The starter solenoid clicks but the starter motor does nothing. After testing, I unplugged the battery and touched all the cables. The only one that felt a little warm (not burning hot but a little warm) was the cable from the solenoid to the starter motor.

FYI this is the brand new starter motor (well Bosch reconditioned unit from Euro Car Parts), so this cable should be fine.
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top