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Any experienced T4 owners out there, put their finger on this one? T4, 2.5 tdi, 5 cylinder, 2003, 101k, FSH, New Timing Belt, Water Pump, No Engine Management Lights, Starts First time every time but on cold start white smoke with hint of blue, rich smell of diesel at back of van all the time unless upon return of motorway miles, at idle - if you punch throttle cloud of white smoke with hint of blue, currently monitoring oil levels??? Any help form the experts?
 

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Most likely worn/dried valve stem seals allowing oil to seep on piston crowns and burning upon start up...Also cocked intake due to egr fumes and soot will cause a rich mixture as the engine doesnt breathe well...Remove the egr valve and either relace with a egr delete pipe or clean the gunk from intake manifold...Best remove the manifold and put it on the barbeque to burn the gunk !
 

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Thanks for such a comprehensive reply. Very inline with everything that's on the net. You're the first to mention EGR, which is interesting. Goes into garage tomorrow, who are disregarding valve stem seals saying the T4 engine is bullet proof. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks again
 

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When i rebuilt the ACV engine in my t4 combi i was very surprised to find a really coked u intake manifold, i was scrapping tar off and was left with oily gunk...had to burn the inlet manifold on the barbeque as it was too much...i am a mechanic by trade, you will be surprised how many clocked motors are running on the roads nowadays with well worn engines or poorly tuned up and owners believe they're minters...
 

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Thanks again to adamss24 for input on this one. All information helps paint a picture for VW ownership. Problem is slowly unpacking itself. Took it to VW specialist, like I said I would. Rich smell from rear appears to have passed and i've now been assured a 2003 van does not have a DPF as these were supposedly introduced in 2005. VW technician inserted scart and used laptop while I drove reporting air mass meter problems and upon telling him my local garage had recently done cambelt and water pump he proceeded to check the timing on his laptop which evidently was neither below range or above range. Van going back into local garage on Tuesday for them to prove timing is within range. On that test drive while the technician had the scart and laptop going on, he jumped out and either adjusted or removed the air mass meter to which there was an immediate increase in performance, not much, just enough to notice. The rich smell has definitely gone (to which I am now thinking might be due to a period of the van being dormant with the previous owner), but mind you with Storm Dennis here those lower temperatures have gone as well, preventing those litmus test cold starts in the morning. Big shout out to the guys at 'ThePhirm' in Blackwater, Surrey. Professional, Knowledgeable and 1st class customer service. So impressed with them. Any comments welcomed, so keen to learn more. Smile per Gallon!
 

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Suggest you invest around 150 quid and buy your self an old laptop (with Windows XP) for 40 quid (ebay), a 10 quid OBDII cable (NOT a SCART one!), and then register the FREE VCDS software for $99 and be able to check all this stuff yourself.
ANYONE with a TDi T4 should have this as the MAIN tool. (I never even drive to the local shops without mine!!!!!)
 

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Or_Gazm, yeah must admit appears like it's a go to piece of equipment for working stuff out. That was really helpful, thanks for that, will start looking into that software
 

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Buy a 10 quid lead from eBay....."Blue" ones seem popular, but I've had 3 different ones (for 2 other people other than myself!) and all worked.
You can download the FREE VCDS software to check it out, and then pay the $99 to register it to get almost exactly the same functions as any VW dealer would have.
Windows XP is the "easiest" to use....but it works on Win7 or Win10.
XP is easiest as you don't have to "dig around" to sort the USB to COM port numbers.

My OLD laptop has a 30 mins battery life....but another 10 quid got me a 12 volt charger for it.
Only been using it for the last 11 years!!!!
Boots up, and as long as plugged into the cig socket, works perfectly.

Seriously....even if it costs you 200 quid at the end, THIS is the main "tool" you should have.
Think of it as less than 2 hours garage charges!!!....And lasts for your lifetime!

My local garage are "connected in the whole region", so have access to specialist tools....but VERY happy to use MY PC/VCDS when they changed the belts :)
 

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Hello,
So I have this exact issue on a 2010 Twin turbo.
But it's drinking water from the expansion tank, di yours seem to take on more water??

I had a brief chat with someone who also mentioned the EGR valve, but he didn't have the time to fully go into it - hence sunday night web crawling!!

I've blanked off many Land Rover EGR's but is it worth taking it in for checking first- in line with valve stem seals??

Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Mr E,
Yes, I do believe mine is drinking a bit too. Had my eye on the expansion tank too, even straight after having had the timing belt done where they drop out the coolant and replace. I had a mate talk to me about EGR valves last week, saying taking them off and giving them a good old clean with over cleaner can work. (who knows??) Had and EGR valve go on my L200 and true enough, a brand new one fixed the problem straight away. Biggest discovery for through all of this is the air mass sensor. Remove that and the performance increases a lot. Looking to get that part off this week and get it all cleaned up - you can buy air mass filter cleaner from car part distributors.
 

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When MAF's go usually engine defaults to a set value and engine is using that as a reference to meter the amount o air the engine ingests. In your case the MAF might be the culprit, usually tar and road grime gets on to the hot element and coats-it and by doing so it sends duff info to the ecu such overfueling/underfueling as it seems fit. Best to replace with a genuine Bosch MAF as cleaning them doesnt always work...Good work with the diagnostic...
 

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Hello,
So I have this exact issue on a 2010 Twin turbo.
But it's drinking water from the expansion tank, di yours seem to take on more water??

I had a brief chat with someone who also mentioned the EGR valve, but he didn't have the time to fully go into it - hence sunday night web crawling!!

I've blanked off many Land Rover EGR's but is it worth taking it in for checking first- in line with valve stem seals??

Many thanks
Unfortunately your van is a different kettle of fish than the original poster's and it has an active EGR with a cooler and a series of flaps and actuators controlled by the ECU to aid in emissions ! When they break coolant gets into the combustion camber and gets burned along with the air/fuel mixture. I suggest you investigate as if it gets worse it will hydrolock your engine and bend rods in the process ! Another possible issue for water loss is head lift on mapped/tuned engines. It will pressurize the cooling system and thus coolant running off trough the safety valve of the header tank. Get it pressure tested and look into that coolant leak...before it becomes a serious problem !
 

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increases a lot. Looking to get that part off this week and get it all cleaned up - you can buy air mass filter cleaner from car part distributors.
Hi Pal,

Thanks for the reply.
I've taken a few egr valves out of the TD5 land rovers before - not for power gains - more to stop the gases being recirculated.
I'll look into it, but if it's possible i'll blank this one off also.
I'm not losing water quickly but it'll take the reserve over three weeks or so.

Hope you get it sorted
 

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I've never had more than a months use out of a MAF after cleaning it!
They "only way to go" is bite the bullet and buy a GENUINE Bosch unit.

EGR blank is a simple S/S plate to replace the original gasket.....but best to clean the pipework out before doing it.

As for water loss.....it's VERY common to fill the tank to max, and find it almost at min after a few hundred miles......and then it never drops any lower!
I keep mine about 5mm above the min....and it stays there between services.
 

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Any experienced T4 owners out there, put their finger on this one? T4, 2.5 tdi, 5 cylinder, 2003, 101k, FSH, New Timing Belt, Water Pump, No Engine Management Lights, Starts First time every time but on cold start white smoke with hint of blue, rich smell of diesel at back of van all the time unless upon return of motorway miles, at idle - if you punch throttle cloud of white smoke with hint of blue, currently monitoring oil levels??? Any help form the experts?
OP, is this van 88 or 102 BHP ? (88BHP signified by blue 'I' in TDI badging)

HH
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks to Adamss24 and Or_gazm those bits of advice on EGR blanking and MAF replacements invaluable. Thanks. Love this forum. Hobbyhorse in response to yours mine is the TDI Blue I. 88hp. Have you got any thoughts?
 

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Beerflap Dont know if yours has a cold weather preheater they are fitted on passenger side and output white smoke when starting up, they kick in at about 5 deg external temperature, its supposed to blow exhaust out nere front passenger side wheel, but if winds blowing in the right direction it can appear to come from the rear. If they havent fired up for a while they can emit a lot of unburnt diesel , white smoke until it fires up properly.
 
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