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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there all , might be just about to strip the 2006 t5 2.5 130 down to ither replace injector seals or the dreaded cracked head ! I have just droped the engine oil , does anyone know other than smell a way of testing for diesel in the oil ? Or is it a case of sending it off for testing ?
I hope I am not starting on the path of festa !
 

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Hi there all , might be just about to strip the 2006 t5 2.5 130 down to ither replace injector seals or the dreaded cracked head ! I have just droped the engine oil , does anyone know other than smell a way of testing for diesel in the oil ? Or is it a case of sending it off for testing ?
I hope I am not starting on the path of festa !
Check the tandum pump. normally leaks into the top of the head and then down to the sump. cheaper than doing the injectors. really unlucky cracked head which can be tested by pressurising the diesel fuel line after the pump. check out my thread
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=95429&highlight=unwell
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi there ,
Had the T5 2.5 engine oil back from lab and it's free from any fuel or water and the viscosity is bang on ! So I am thinking it's nothing to do with injector seals or tandem pump ,as no fuel getting in to oil so no leak in the engine but I am getting the same starting issues as a fuel pressure drop in the rail , could it be the tank pump letting air in to system after draining back , does the tank pump have a one way valve ? Just to recap after two days the van might not start first time and it might need more cranking to start , when it does start it's well out of balance like two cylinders arnt firing properly after a minuet it just eavens out and runs fine , if I rev it it runs smoother quicker . But within 5 seconds I get a lightish blue white smoke from the exaust for about 30 seconds then clears , not sure if this is something else or linked to the starting issue .
I am just pleased I have no diesel in my oil feeewwwww! ! !
 

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out of all the non start issues ive read about that are caused by no fuel, i havnt heard of them running rough when finally starting. have you had it plugged in to check for injector or glow problems?

glad to hear your sump is clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for delay in reply , I had the van checked at it's service at vw they said no fault codes ! It was -2 when I started it today after it sitting over night and it made a huge cloud of light blue white smoke twice as much as normal so i assume it's unbernt fuel ? And it worse with cold so i think it still could be a sensor if not it's leaking injectors or seals !it started fine just really really lumpy for 30 seconds whichmmakes me think it's got to be on one or two cylinders to affect the engine balance so much I just got to wip it in to bits and have a rumige
 

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did they check for fault codes while car is driving or parked. results are sometimes different. for me when number 1 went it never showed fault. sometimes i think 'fault codes' are pretty useless for helping to diagnose but you still have to try.
give us another complete rundown of symptoms (however small or stupid sounding) and how long its been happening. is it only when starting or are there driving symptoms as well? any when warm?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry for delay , it's worse when cold and it only happens if the van is left to completely cool down it doesn't sem to change with time just temperature it fires up like it's missing on one or more cylinders and blows out a fair amount of smoke for 5 seconds or so then the engine balances out stops smoking (smoke is white def unburnt disel ) and runs smooth from that point on no problems when warm other than maybe a bit low fuel economy ! And a bit smokey under exceleration.
I have just got the van back together after replacing the fuel temp sensor (did not fix it ) the glow plugs the coolant temp sensor G62 and fixed all the damaged pipe clips , and a new battery , It took a lot of cranking to start the van it's been out of action for a week it seemed to take for ever to start ??? but when it did there was no smoke and the engine was running nice So just got to wait now to see what it acts like in the cold bit warm here to tell at the moment ! But going back to the starting I was thinking maybe over the week it's been dropping fuel pressure from the tandem pump , but I know it's not leaking in to engine due to oil tests ! Can the tandem fail by loosing pressure back down the supply pipe from the tandem to the pick up , does anyone know ?
Just to say I found most of the teeth on the intercooler pipes male ends that meet up with the female wire clip have bad wear or even snapped which is giving the pipes a little to much play and the seals rant working, so I filled over the teeth with steel epoxy and filed it away to the original size before the wear and all the pipes fit sweet as now and I ain't got hardly any smoke on hard exceleration which is a good thing I recon , I just always thought it was the stupid rubber seals failing but it ain't on mine !
 

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Hi
Having similar problems. Fuel in the oil. I was going to attempt to replace the injector seals. Are they eay to to do? Are they seals and guides? Or just seals ?
Plus are they under the rocker cover? And could the seal to the random pump be gone?
Lots of questions I know, but with my t4 it was easy. The t5 seems a little more complicated.. lots of pipes etc
 

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Hi
Having similar problems. Fuel in the oil. I was going to attempt to replace the injector seals. Are they eay to to do? Are they seals and guides? Or just seals ?
Plus are they under the rocker cover? And could the seal to the random pump be gone?
Lots of questions I know, but with my t4 it was easy. The t5 seems a little more complicated.. lots of pipes etc
I have just done both of these jobs. Tandem pump and injector seals job cost about the same but tandem pump is a lot easier. Having a Haynes manual is quite useful especially for torque figures.

I found setting up the injectors takes a bit of messing around! Measuring and torquing etc. Where as you pretty much just bolt the tandem pump on. However from reading threads on her it seems to me that seals fail more than the tandem pump which is why I don't that first.

In the seal set you get a lot of bits but I just replaced the bits it said to do the Haynes manual which is two seals, one o-ring and a little clip that holds the o-ring on. The seals are under the rocker, which means you have to buy all new stretch bolts for injectors and rocker cover, which what makes the job expensive.

My t5 just had a metal gasket I think some t5s have a rubber seal. Not sure whether it could be gasket, it wasn't on mine.
 

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Thanks for that!
I'll look into prices now.. plus a manual! I don't mind doing it myself, just wasn't sure how hard a job it was. The T4 I had was a simple engine compared to this one.
As the guy I bought it off said he'd had them replaced six months or so ago, you'd think they would last longer? Or a kit to repair it.

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Just reading up on the reviews on the manual. As the one I bought for the t4 wasn't great.. is yours the 5743 Haynes that you got your information from?

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Thanks for that!
I'll look into prices now.. plus a manual! I don't mind doing it myself, just wasn't sure how hard a job it was. The T4 I had was a simple engine compared to this one.
As the guy I bought it off said he'd had them replaced six months or so ago, you'd think they would last longer? Or a kit to repair it.

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well I managed it and had never taken I rocker cover off until a few weeks ago. It says in the manual you should expect to renew seals every 60 000 miles and there always over cautious. You would think they would last longer unless one of the seals was but on backwards or twisted. It stresses quite alot about putting them on right in the book. sliping the seals on isn't that hard though.
 

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Just reading up on the reviews on the manual. As the one I bought for the t4 wasn't great.. is yours the 5743 Haynes that you got your information from?

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Yeah that's the one. I would rate it and has good reviews on Amazon.
 

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I just priced the seal kit. Not bad considering... If it's those that have gone.
I priced up the pump, they are not cheap! But I'm told the rocker comer gasket comes compete with rocker cover. Surely that can't be right!? Did you have to replace the cover too?
Not going to be a cheap job is it..


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I just priced the seal kit. Not bad considering... If it's those that have gone.
I priced up the pump, they are not cheap! But I'm told the rocker comer gasket comes compete with rocker cover. Surely that can't be right!? Did you have to replace the cover too?
Not going to be a cheap job is it..


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I just noticed you have 2.5 so your parts might be slightly different to my 1.9 engine. My pump was £180 from darkside developments which was a oem part. I just brought a seal kit which is 4 little packs, stretch bolt kit, and got a rocker cover gasket from the dealers and kept the old cover.
 

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After a little more research. I'm hoping the injection seals when they were done six months ago apparently, that they should be ok. So I think I may go for the tandom pump.. Expensive start, and assuming the seals are ok? Tough call but at least I'll know.


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Yes the cam cover dos come complete. but is reusable. if you replace the seals on the injectors the kit should come with the insert for the top of the injector, make sure you look at the adjusting screw on the rocker that sits in it. if it is not round on the bottom replace them. They must fit like a bale and socket. also when you have the injectors out, look in the recess and feel for any roughness. if there is, stuff a bitt of rag in the hole and with a small bit of wet and dry give it a bit of a sand just to get rid if the roughness. I also give the injectors a light smear of silicon grease just to help them slide in.
 

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Ok. Thanks for that. I'm ordering a manual so that should help. Plus I'm going try the pump first. As the guy I bought it off says he had the injectors done...how good a job or if they was. I don't know?


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