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Well..... after some indecision I dove in bought a pump and decided to have a go.. Now, I'm a complete engine novice, but buggered if im going to pay a few hundred squids to a garage for something that looks to be a few hours work, even to my untrained eye.

Pre 1996 water pumps arnt linked to the timing chain so its no major drama.... BUT

"disclaimer bit"
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING OR MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE: THIS IS JUST ME HAVING A GO AND SHOWING YOU WHAT I DID. SEEK EXPERT ADVICE FIRST...... don't pay for it tho FFS!

Ok firstly... service and repair guides free here for all VW's.. i advise at least having a look, then throw away the instructions

http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/

TBH.... I have never done anything like this before, but I managed to get my water pump off in less than 30 mins and a new one back on within an hour. The fiddliest bit was the hose clips would you believe...?

Ok here is part 1: in picture form for those of us who see better than we read!

















One last thing I forgot to mention contrary to last picture.. Dont forget to remove the lower hose (2 nuts underneath) inside that you will find a valve... its the thermostat, you will need to put this in the new pump or replace it...


Part 2 to follow later
 

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Great guide :)

I would say put the thermo-stat back on (get a new one) whilst pump is off, also put the hose's back on whilst the pump is off, you can make sure its on right then, is nice and tight, and doesnt leak T:

Did this job last week and sheared a bolt on the thermo stat housing due to insufficient light and access,,re-assembled old housing and new pump bod in the end.
 

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Hi all you TDi experts.
I have a water pump problem related to the AFN engine, any one on the forum got any experience? The wifes SEAT toledo TDIS has a wrecked water pump, since it appears to be very similar to the 1Z engine, and lots of you have played around with that, I'm hoping someone can tell me if there are any hidden securing bolts holding the pump onto the block, or if its just stuck and needs a wack to remove it. I've got the alternator, A/C pump and power steering pumps off and the carrier that they are bolted to and the four securing bolts shown on vagcat, but the pump wont budge and I dont want to apply too much force in case I've missed something.

I took a day just to get this far, and i don't want to break something now!

Regards,

//NiSk
 

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Found my problem - didn't realize that the studs holding the alternator/A/C compressor carrier are also bolts holding the water pump to the block! Naughty VAGCAT! they only list bolts. i.e. no version with A/C.

//NiSk
 

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just replaced my water pump following this guide. few steps missing though...

alternator connectors - took me about a half hour to work out how to get the buggers off. you have to push them in towards the alternator then squeeze the clippy bit to pull them free.

you'll need a big G clamp or ratchet strap to compress the alternator tension spring so you can get the belt off and back on again afterwards.

after the alternator is out (the 2 bolts mentioned in the guide) you need to undo 4 13mm nuts to get the alternator bracket off. once that's off it may look like there's just one 19mm bolt holding the pump on, but there are 3 'double ended' bolts that need to be undone with a 19mm spanner. you may need a deep cranked spanner to get to the top left bolt. i also had to remove the bolt to the right that doesn't go through the pump, just to get it out of the way of the spanner to get at the top bolts.

i didn't need to take the cambelt cover off. there's one nut/bolt that goes through it and the pump.

i found that the spanner for my angle grinder had the pins spaced exactly the same as the 2 holes in the pump pulley, so i used that for removing and replacing the bolts (no need for a vice).

and before starting, check the state of the bolts in your pump pulley. once i had it all apart i found that some helpful soul had rounded one of the allen heads out so i had to cut it off with a grinder and shorten some hex head bolts to replace it. ideally i'd have noticed and sourced some new bolts before i started.

the pump will come with 2 new o rings. one goes between pump and engine block, other goes between thermostat and the plastic lower flange. there's no need to slather either of them in silicon like a previous owner/garage had done to my old pump.

also, my new thermostat came with a rubber ring which confused the hell out of me as it wouldn't fit into the new pump. it was only when dismantling the old pump that i realised it's just packaging that needs to go in the bin, not in the engine.


other than that, top guide. gave me the confidence to change my pump myself, which has hopefully saved me a fair few ££. :)

(it has left me longing for the days of driving aircooled though...)
 

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Can anyone help me, I have dropped the pump from mine to change the pump in the housing and am having trouble getting the pulley bolts off. I think they may have been over-torqued when they were put on. I have been soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days and now gone and bought a long arm breaker bar, but think i may still have to get a friend with an angle grinder on it.

I am going to replace the bolts, so does anyone know what the bolts are supposed to be torqued to? I'm thinking it should be something like 25-30Nm? Not just as f'ing tight as possible?
 
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